How do I remove fuse block insert?

My 84 Bronco XLT didn’t come with power doors so I installed them. I’m trying to upgrade the 25 amp fuses in positions 12 and 14. I want to put the 30 amp circuit breaker in there. In order to fit the smaller fuses, there are “inserts” in those positions (maybe they are called sleeves or collars or reducers or something else, I have no idea). I can’t figure out how to get them out. They will wiggle a bit, so they are clearly removable, but they don’t simply pull out. I’m assuming there is a tab or something but I can’t figure it out. Has anyone removed one of these before?

Welcome to the forum.  

I understand that you have a question that you'd like answered.  However, in the email I sent you when you joined on March 13th I specifically asked you to "Please go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread/topic in that folder about yourself and your truck."  You've not done that, so I can only assume you've not read the guidelines that are posted there.

It is important that you read the guidelines as you will be held to them.  We have a friendly, family-oriented forum here and have banned members for not following the guidelines, and I don't want that to happen to you.

So when you've read the guidelines and posted the introduction, I'll be happy to discuss the fuse box.  In fact, I have a fuse box sitting out that I can take pics of to post if that will help.

Hi Gary,
My apologies to you. I did not follow the instructions that you sent, which was disrespectful to you and the other members that did. Forgive me for being shy; I have always been hesitant to share information about myself online. I just posted a brief intro on the new members forum for background and I assure you that I will adhere to the guidelines posted.

If you happen to know, I’d love to find out how to get those inserts out of the fuse block. Any chance you can forgive my faux-pas and help me out with that?

BTW thank you for this website. It really is an amazing resource, especially the incredible amount of documentation that you have curated. I don’t know where I’d be without it.

What faux-pas?  (At almost 73 I have a very short memory.  I think it used to be better, but can't remember.  )

Yes, I'll be happy to get pics of the fuse box and see if we can figure out how to get the inserts out.  I don't know, but I'm sure we can do it.  But, it'll have to wait until tomorrow.  I was going to take pics today, but we got to Zoom with our grandkids several times and - I forgot.  

As for the site, you are welcome.  I've vowed not to look things up in the factory shop manual or master parts catalog w/o posting it, and I dislike answering people's questions time after time.  So the site has grown from those efforts.

Anyway, at 10 in the morn Siri is set to remind me to check the fuse box.  (There are ways around short memories.)

I circled the tabs in the first photo you posted. Gary should be able to get you some better pictures, but each wiring terminal is held in by a tab that you depress from the fuse side of the box.

And be very careful with those tabs as I broke the first one I removed in the jy. Once you see how they are clipped though, subsequent ones are a lot easier.

Let's see if this pic helps.  I had a hard time getting closer, sorry.  

Gary - I think he needs a pic of the back side of a fuse box. His post says that he wants to remove the plastic insert that reduces the cavity from the size of a breaker down to the size of a fuse. He wants to install a breaker there.

Thanks everyone for the info. I'm not sure about whether I need to see the back of the fuse block, but I think myrl883 gets the issue I'm having. The screenshots that you guys sent earlier don't really make sense to me (but that may be because I'm not very familiar with the components). Let me walk through the issue again a little more clearly and hopefully that will make it easy for all:

My truck was built without power doors, so I bought all of the innards of two full power doors and the behind dash jumper wiring that connects the doors to each other and the fuse block. Further, I'm using the below diagram for reference:



In the back of the fuse block, I plugged in the green connector of the window jumper wiring into slot C1692. Based on the chart, vehicles equipped with power windows and door locks have a 30 amp circuit breaker in slot 12 and a 20 amp circuit breaker in slot 14. My truck, with manual doors has a 25 amp fuse in each of these locations. since the fuses are small than the CBs, it looks like my truck has two tiny inserts in these slots to reduce the size of the slot. In the picture below, I have circled the two slots. Slot 14 still has the 25 amp fuse and the reducer in it, and slot 12 has the fuse removed and just shows the slot with the reducer still in it:



Also, here is a close up of the empty reducer in slot 12:



So, my initial question is, how do I remove the inserts in slots 12 and 14 so that they will fit circuit breakers?

Since I've got y'alls attention, I'd like to ask an even more technical question as a follow-up: Does the power door jumper wiring that runs behind the dash plug directly into C1962? I would have thought that it somehow ties into the tailgate window switch, but I don't see how that's possible.

The trucks and broncos are slightly different in this regard due to the rear window. Here is the clip removed in case seeing the tabs helps:

 

After comparing your pictures to my burnt out fuse box, I see what you're referring to. But I've never looked closely at a fuse box from a power option truck, so I can't tell how those are removed, and my fuse box doesn't really give me any clues either. I would imagine there are tabs that hold them in, but you would probably have to access them from the back of the fuse box.

You'll need to unscrew the block and rotate it to get at the tabs. The reducers like this come in from the front so have to be unclipped from behind whereas the new connectors snap in from the back. IIRC.

---Update. I looked again and I don't believe you have to come in from the back. Use a pick or small screwdriver to push one of the tabs down from inside one of the small square openings on either end of the reducer. At the same time with some needle nose pliers pull that end of the reducer out enough to free it from the latch. Remove the screwdriver and do the same for the other latch making sure the first side doesn't lock back in

You could also use two screw drivers if you can pry them in enough to stay by themselves or grow a third hand.

Here is the pick pushing down on the ledge to release it.

I may have a fuse block set up for power windows and locks.  And I know I have one w/o.  So, if need be I can check out the other fuse block.  Let me know if it is needed.

Thank you kramttocs. Pictures were very helpful, and clear directions make it foolproof. Growing a third arm might be the best advice anyone has ever given me. I'm going to get to work on that right away (I know exactly where I'm going to put it).

I'm going to post my follow up question about the wiring that goes behind the dash on a new thread to keep things organized. I'll add the link here for that post, too.

Thanks everyone.

This is the follow up post discussing wiring in the power doors to the tailgate.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Conversion-to-power-doors-Wiring-question-tp56674.html

Appreciate your help.

Great! Working on these trucks there are times when 5 or 6 arms aren't enough