Frame is flexing on the driver's side

mat in tn wrote

NO. NO. NO!
this is wrong. the ratchet strap should be on the same vehicle not hooked to another.  and you still need to disconnect the shocks and possibly the spring. you are fighting too many attachments.

Do they shocks need to be removed or just unbolt the bottom? Do I need a spring compressor or just compress the springs with a floor jack and when I lower the jack the spring can be removed? Starting to sound like I should grind the head off the two rivets and replace them with bolts.

mat in tn wrote

NO. NO. NO!
this is wrong. the ratchet strap should be on the same vehicle not hooked to another.  and you still need to disconnect the shocks and possibly the spring. you are fighting too many attachments.

I found a video on how to remove the coil springs on a newer Bronco. https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?&q=how+to+remove+the+coil+springs+on+a+1985+ford+f150&&mid=2CDBFC2B010EDCC003A92CDBFC2B010EDCC003A9&&FORM=VRDGAR

the point is that when you "load" a spring it has to come back and when you load many rubber bushings and springs then they all must.  when using a ratchet strap, you do not have control upon release as you do with a come along so it's best to use a second almost tight and then have them take turns backing down. and let's not forget what could happen if it were to break while you are in there. so open as many doors as necessary to stay safe and keep unwanted stress out of the mix.

mat in tn wrote

the point is that when you "load" a spring it has to come back and when you load many rubber bushings and springs then they all must.  when using a ratchet strap, you do not have control upon release as you do with a come along so it's best to use a second almost tight and then have them take turns backing down. and let's not forget what could happen if it were to break while you are in there. so open as many doors as necessary to stay safe and keep unwanted stress out of the mix.

Got ya Matt. I'll see if my Grandson can give me a hand.

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CDLong wrote

mat in tn wrote

the point is that when you "load" a spring it has to come back and when you load many rubber bushings and springs then they all must. when using a ratchet strap, you do not have control upon release as you do with a come along so it's best to use a second almost tight and then have them take turns backing down. and let's not forget what could happen if it were to break while you are in there. so open as many doors as necessary to stay safe and keep unwanted stress out of the mix.

Got ya Matt. I'll see if my Grandson can give me a hand.

I have followed the video I posted other than removing the spring. The passenger's side shocks and coil spring are still bolted tight. I had the come a long hooked to the Silverado. I moved the axle forward as you see in the photo, but I was pilling the truck forward, the rear of the jack stands were off the driveway. I repositioned the come a long as shown. I can't get the axle any farther forward. What do I try now? When I back off the come a long, the axle does not move backwards.ow?

Finally got the radius arm out. Had to unbolt shocks and coil spring on passenger's side. The passenger's side radius arm nut was backed off until the threads were even with nut. I repositioned the jack stands 6 inches forward. I used the Silverado because hooking the come along to the frame only lifted the axle, no forward movement. The threads are messed up due to them hitting the side of the mount. Now, with new bushings installed, I used a ratchet strap to lift the radius arm, but it's too far to the outside of the truck. I assume if I loosen the bolt that retains the bottom of the coil spring. i should be able to adjust the radius arm to aline with the hole?

i see where you are supporting the radius arm with the strap. now use a strap at the bushing end pulling it toward the other side frame rail. possibly even to the other radius arm.

one of the quirks may be that it is loaded by the jack. I don't use a jack there unless I'm pushing it back up once the arm is back in position. I like the I beam to fall a bit. but I do keep a jack in position just 1/2" loose.

The arm not in line with the hole is ok?  I thought about another strap to pull it over. Wish I'd have thought about it taking it apart.

When the jack wasn't in use, it didn't line up.

I didn't realize how good I had it when I just replaced my bushings and the mounts were all bolted on rather than rivets.

lift kits being bolted on does make it a little easier.

essmaker wrote

I didn't realize how good I had it when I just replaced my bushings and the mounts were all bolted on rather than rivets.

I am seriously thinkin' of grindin' my rivets off and replacing them with bolts since I'm this far into it.

CDLong wrote

essmaker wrote

I didn't realize how good I had it when I just replaced my bushings and the mounts were all bolted on rather than rivets.

I am seriously thinkin' of grindin' my rivets off and replacing them with bolts since I'm this far into it.

I decided to grind the rivets off. Ground the bottom of the rivets off, soaked the head with WD-40. Removed the 2 bolts, using a 4-pound hammer, rocked the bracket front to rear. about 4 blows each way and the bracket dropped. Soaked the rivet heads with WD-40, lifted and insulated the fuel lines inside the frame rail, heated the rivets and with 2 hammer blows and they popped out. Took about 3 hours with a couple smoke breaks. Kept one rivet head, now off to the hardware store.

While a pain, in the end I think you'll be glad you did it! Any future work you have to do will be much easier.



While you're at the hardware store, get some rust reformer and paint. Seems like everything I touch I do it and thank myself 5 years later.

a win is a win! be sure to torque the bolts per their size and grade. hopefully you used staked lock nuts.

essmaker wrote

While a pain, in the end I think you'll be glad you did it! Any future work you have to do will be much easier.



While you're at the hardware store, get some rust reformer and paint. Seems like everything I touch I do it and thank myself 5 years later.

How did you prep the metal?

I purchased all fine thread hardware with flange lock nuts. I intend to anti-seize all the hardwre. I found a torque spec of 70 ft-lbs for the 7/16th bolts.

CDLong wrote

How did you prep the metal?

I first used a wire wheel to get it as clean as I could. Then, I just sprayed on a rust reformer/primer - which I have really come to like and think it is doing a good job. After that I paint it with a coat or two...I have been using Hammered paint on frame parts.

Up here in the north with all of the salt, I try to protect anything I take off.

Good job!