Engine starts but won't stay running after rebuild...

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Engine starts but won't stay running after rebuild...

Sac79
So I finally decided to try and start the truck today. It started to catch life by about the 5th or 6th attempt. Unfortunately it would not continue running. I had the accelerator all the way open from the start, it never got above 500RPM and only ran for about 15-20 seconds, then it would stutter and die.

With everything being so simple, I have to believe it's just timing. It's a HEI dizzy, Edelbrock 1404 carb with manual choke. Unfortunately the distributor clearance(or lack thereof) does not allow for an easy adjustment. I'll have to take it out and do some grinding/filing to give it more adjustment options.

Any ideas what else it could be? I have a short video, but no where to post it(I suppose I could create a YT account).
Rob

Eddy Myrtle '84 F150 300-6, Offenhauser C series intake, Edelbrock 1404(500cfm manual choke), EFI exhaust manifold, HEI dizzy, custom Painless harness, NP 435, NP 208, D44, 8.8"/3.08, 1.5" leveling coils, 265/75/16 tires.
Toyopet (Daily driver) '86 Toyota Pickup
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Re: Engine starts but won't stay running after rebuild...

Gary Lewis
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I wouldn't try to start one by opening the throttle fully.  Instead I would set the choke and the open the throttle briskly to shoot fuel in with the accelerator pump, and crank.  As soon as it catches I'd start pushing the choke lever in, meaning take the choke off, slowly.  If you crank too long with the choke on you can flood it, and if you don't start pushing the choke off as it starts it might die.

As for what else it could be, give that a try and then think about other things.  But correct timing is very important.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Engine starts but won't stay running after rebuild...

85lebaront2
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In reply to this post by Sac79
I would start by static timing it at 10° BTDC, if you can't get that Chevy distributor to that position you are probably never going the get it to run correctly.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Engine starts but won't stay running after rebuild...

ArdWrknTrk
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis wrote
As for what else it could be, give that a try and then think about other things.  But correct timing is very important.
So is plenty of power.
I've seen that you're a wiz at wiring but I'm wondering how it's sourced?
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Engine starts but won't stay running after rebuild...

Sac79
Bill, others have been able to get this distributor to work, so I'm sure I can too...

Jim, what do you mean? How is the power sourced? To what? Are you asking me, or Gary? I'm no whiz at wiring, I followed simple instructions... If you meant to the dizzy, it's from the dedicated coil power supply and since Painless is geared towards GM products, I assume(yes I know) they know what's required for an HEI. Anyway, I'm going to go and try it again shortly, the battery is charging now. And I'll take the dizzy out tomorrow and do some modifying to enable more adjustment. I'll be mowing the rest of today...
Rob

Eddy Myrtle '84 F150 300-6, Offenhauser C series intake, Edelbrock 1404(500cfm manual choke), EFI exhaust manifold, HEI dizzy, custom Painless harness, NP 435, NP 208, D44, 8.8"/3.08, 1.5" leveling coils, 265/75/16 tires.
Toyopet (Daily driver) '86 Toyota Pickup
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Re: Engine starts but won't stay running after rebuild...

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Yes, you.
I know nothing about the Painless universal harness, but you've had great success working the kinks out!

So, I don't know what or where that "dedicated power source" supply is coming from.
What I do know is hei is hungry, and if it doesn't get fed  it glitches out.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Engine starts but won't stay running after rebuild...

85lebaront2
Administrator
In reply to this post by Sac79
You mentioned interference in fitting the distributor, the results you are getting sounds like you have it severely retarded, From what I remember on the GM built units, static timing is when the points on the trigger align with the ones one the trigger coil. If you can get that condition at 10° BTDC (Ford timing scales run from 10° ATDC to 30° BTDC. Make sure you are on the BTDC side. Wherever you can get the trigger/pickup "points" in alignment at #1 TDC use that to locate the plug wire tower for #1. Then be sure you are in the correct 153624 firing order.

Good luck with it!
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Engine starts but won't stay running after rebuild...

Sac79
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Thanks Jim, but it really is simple.

I guess it's not impossible that the power supply is not sufficient, but the default wiring is for a HEI, as in that's the way the harness is set up, anything else requires modification. The distributor feed comes straight from the fuse box with it's own 30amp fuse. So changing the power supply would be my last resort.
Rob

Eddy Myrtle '84 F150 300-6, Offenhauser C series intake, Edelbrock 1404(500cfm manual choke), EFI exhaust manifold, HEI dizzy, custom Painless harness, NP 435, NP 208, D44, 8.8"/3.08, 1.5" leveling coils, 265/75/16 tires.
Toyopet (Daily driver) '86 Toyota Pickup
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Re: Engine starts but won't stay running after rebuild...

Sac79
In reply to this post by 85lebaront2
Thanks Bill, but no joy this morning I'm afraid. Couldn't even get it to run as long as yesterday, so it wasn't just me misusing the choke. I believe it's retarded too. I aligned the distributor at #1 TDC, or as close as I could with limitations I had. I believe it is ATDC if anything, but I can't believe it can be that severe to not run, but obviously it is. I'll play around with it tomorrow and try to get it to 10BTDC.
Rob

Eddy Myrtle '84 F150 300-6, Offenhauser C series intake, Edelbrock 1404(500cfm manual choke), EFI exhaust manifold, HEI dizzy, custom Painless harness, NP 435, NP 208, D44, 8.8"/3.08, 1.5" leveling coils, 265/75/16 tires.
Toyopet (Daily driver) '86 Toyota Pickup
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Re: Engine starts but won't stay running after rebuild...

1986F150Six
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Remember, on the six banger, turning the distributor CCW advances timing.
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Re: Engine starts but won't stay running after rebuild...

85lebaront2
Administrator
In reply to this post by Sac79
30 amp fused circuit should be more than adequate for an HEI. That should tell you what a power hog they are.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: Engine starts but won't stay running after rebuild...

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by Sac79
Rob, if you're having troubles getting enough advance try moving all the plug wires around on the cap.

CCW one post, as David points out rotation is opposite that of a V-8 engine.

What does a timing light show?
I don't suppose tapping the distributor works, like it does on a DuraSpark distributor?

ETA; thank you for the explanation.
I just don't know how your harness works, but I know the normal feed of a Ford harness won't do it for HEI.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Engine starts but won't stay running after rebuild...

Sac79
Engine starts and runs!

Thank you gentleman for the advice and tips. After turning the crank to 10BTDC, I turned the rotor a couple of gears and was then able to have one of the points line up, one over of the original no1. It started on the second attempt and I was able to open the throttle up immediately. It idled quite happily too. I'll continue the story in the 'tinker' thread...
Rob

Eddy Myrtle '84 F150 300-6, Offenhauser C series intake, Edelbrock 1404(500cfm manual choke), EFI exhaust manifold, HEI dizzy, custom Painless harness, NP 435, NP 208, D44, 8.8"/3.08, 1.5" leveling coils, 265/75/16 tires.
Toyopet (Daily driver) '86 Toyota Pickup
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Re: Engine starts but won't stay running after rebuild...

85lebaront2
Administrator
Glad it worked sir! Your earlier description was classic very retarded timing.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413