Dual Tanks - Manual Valve Conversion?

So far the tank selector has been working.  I am concerned with needed it though and it not switching tanks.  From what I understand the fuel tank selectors are known for failing.  The retaining clip on the wire harness is broken on mine so someone was working on it at some point in its life.  

Was thinking to install a 3 way manual ball valve under there.  Leave the electronic hooked up for the fuel level reading only.  Looks like there are 2 return lines on the valve as well.  So I would need 2 - 3 way valves.  

Which metal type is best for this without considering cost for diesel?  Stainless steel or brass?

Does anyone have a better way to do this or done anything similar?

The fuel systems on these trucks are fraught with problems.  Ford keep working on them, coming up with changes every couple of years.  In fact, it wasn't until in the 90's that they seem to have worked the issues out.

Anyway, I'm following this but don't have any answers.

Gary Lewis wrote

The fuel systems on these trucks are fraught with problems.  Ford keep working on them, coming up with changes every couple of years.  In fact, it wasn't until in the 90's that they seem to have worked the issues out....

Are you talking about the late '90s?  Like '97 for the F-150/F-250 and '99 for the F-250HD/F-350?  Because I don't think Ford fixed the dual tank issue until they stopped putting dual tanks in trucks.  I haven't had trouble with my current '97 F-250HD, but I did have the issue with my '95 F-150 where fuel would return to the rear tank even when I was using the front one.  Common issue in the 9th gen trucks (or transferring to the front tank, just depends on which FDM went bad).

My '71 Bronco had a 3-way ball valve for a tank selector and a switch on the dash for the fuel gage.  There was no return line so that wasn't an issue.  I will say that system was a bit of a pain.  I was able to reach the ball valve from the driver's seat which made it tolerable.  But it was still surprisingly difficult for me to have the switch and the valve both on the same tank.  Especially with the tiny aux tank on the Bronco it wasn't uncommon enough that I'd run out of gas with the gage reading full (at least that error always leaves you with a full tank to switch to).

I would think that having separate valves for the supply and return lines would be even worse.  I suppose if both were inaccessible under the truck it shouldn't be too hard to discipline yourself to switch them together.  And they could be mounted so the handles are always parallel which would make it easier to know you had it right.

But if it was me and I was going with a ball valve I'd at least think about not switching the return line.  You'd have to run on the tank with the return line first, then switch to the other tank, and then you could possibly switch back to the first tank again.  Sort of a pain, but it would be a simpler system.

What I actually did on my Bronco was get a "6-way" solenoid controlled valve and wired that to work with my dash switch.  (I needed to add a return line when I fuel injected it.  I took the return line out when I went back to a carb, but that's another story.)  That hasn't been ideal either (I had one aftermarket valve fail, stranding me with one full tank).

As far as material goes, I think I'd lean toward brass rather than stainless, but I don't have any data to back that up, so take it for what it's worth.

I've only had two Ford's where the fuel gauges worked "good". My 1992 Bronco, and a 1994 F250 with dual tanks I used to own.

I like the spare tire under the bed where it is, but if I ever get into problems that are trouble to deal with in the switching system (i.e. no parts), I'll go with the 38 gallon replacement tank and only have one. And deal with the spare tire.

At least you can get a new fuel sender for the 38 gallon tank. The replacement for the stock tank is "unobtanium" for my truck anyways.

6.9-250 wrote

So far the tank selector has been working.  I am concerned with needed it though and it not switching tanks.  From what I understand the fuel tank selectors are known for failing.  

If it's working, I'd leave it alone until there's actually a problem (reason to $wap).  This shows & its caption explains a few ways to put an electric valve into a dual-tank system:



The 6-port valve is very reliable, and it's what Ford has used for decades on diesels.

grumpin wrote

The replacement for the stock tank is "unobtanium" for my truck anyways.

The tank, or the level sender? On which truck?  AFAIK, both are commonly available; but the sender is easy to repair:

Steve83 wrote

grumpin wrote

The replacement for the stock tank is "unobtanium" for my truck anyways.

The tank, or the level sender? On which truck?  AFAIK, both are commonly available; but the sender is easy to repair:

1986 F250, rear steel tank, 19 gallon, the sender is not available. I do have a new tank back there. Those you can get.

grumpin wrote

1986 F250...

Ah... NEITHER of the trucks you mentioned in that post.