Machspeed Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 For those that don't know, the later visors have a place for a catch on the inboard end. They outboard end bolts in where the original visors go, and you have to drill two holes on the inboard end there's no problem doing so as that's what the factory did. Here are two shots of the visors on Big Blue, and while I have a Highliner in, you can easily use these visors with the factory headliner or even w/o a headliner. Yep, there's something else I've gotta do! I've been griping about my visors for a long time. Thanks, Gary! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 Yep, there's something else I've gotta do! I've been griping about my visors for a long time. Thanks, Gary! Makes a huge difference. And, by the way, those visors and the catches were brown. SEM to the rescue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spike_time Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 Makes a huge difference. And, by the way, those visors and the catches were brown. SEM to the rescue. Well an update for the past week or so. I got Big Blue polished up and looking much less oxidized. I also replaced the cab lights, I took one off to replace the lightbulb and it came apart in my hand. One of the exciting things was painting the gauges to get them looking closer to new. I showed my wife this picture and she couldn't figure out what was different. I'll remember that next time she gets a haircut ... Amazing what a little Orange Enamel paint can do. I also spent some time trying to fix an annoying issue that required me to push up on the steering wheel to engage the starter. When I was cleaning up, the steering wheel wasn't fully attached as the previous owner had replaced the turn signal, but didn't put everything back together. I pulled everything apart, cleaned it all, greased the actuators but the issue still existed. When I was cleaning it all, I took pictures of the actuator. It was VERY worn. I think this was causing ignition not to fully engage. So ... in my Junkyard adventures, I pulled one from another truck. Took me 45 minutes, to get a part that is only 3 inches long . No key, so I had to drill out the ignition switch to be able to get it out. A new one is about $90 ... they charged me for a big bolt ... $8. Here is the new one. Seems to be working better, but I'm still questioning if the ignition switch itself needs adjustment. At some point there may have been a power steering leak. I degreased it all and power washed the power steering pump, to give me a clear view. I think someone fixed it, but didn't clean up, we shall see. My latest adventures involve changing out the diff oil, I was very worried that it had never been changes, with close to 200,000 miles. BUT was pleasantly surprised to find that the diff cover must have been replaced after the lift was put on, as the RTV was pushed into the gap between the axle u-bolt. That would only have happened if the diff cover was pulled and re-seated, so I have that going for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Well an update for the past week or so. I got Big Blue polished up and looking much less oxidized. I also replaced the cab lights, I took one off to replace the lightbulb and it came apart in my hand. One of the exciting things was painting the gauges to get them looking closer to new. I showed my wife this picture and she couldn't figure out what was different. I'll remember that next time she gets a haircut ... Amazing what a little Orange Enamel paint can do. I also spent some time trying to fix an annoying issue that required me to push up on the steering wheel to engage the starter. When I was cleaning up, the steering wheel wasn't fully attached as the previous owner had replaced the turn signal, but didn't put everything back together. I pulled everything apart, cleaned it all, greased the actuators but the issue still existed. When I was cleaning it all, I took pictures of the actuator. It was VERY worn. I think this was causing ignition not to fully engage. So ... in my Junkyard adventures, I pulled one from another truck. Took me 45 minutes, to get a part that is only 3 inches long . No key, so I had to drill out the ignition switch to be able to get it out. A new one is about $90 ... they charged me for a big bolt ... $8. Here is the new one. Seems to be working better, but I'm still questioning if the ignition switch itself needs adjustment. At some point there may have been a power steering leak. I degreased it all and power washed the power steering pump, to give me a clear view. I think someone fixed it, but didn't clean up, we shall see. My latest adventures involve changing out the diff oil, I was very worried that it had never been changes, with close to 200,000 miles. BUT was pleasantly surprised to find that the diff cover must have been replaced after the lift was put on, as the RTV was pushed into the gap between the axle u-bolt. That would only have happened if the diff cover was pulled and re-seated, so I have that going for me. Wow, it really looks good! Well done. And the gauge looks good as well. But while you may remember your wife's inability to see the difference the next time she gets a haircut, I suggest you keep the memory to yourself. That actuator looks badly worn. Wow! I'll bet that did make a difference. But are you having problems where the key doesn't come fully back to Run each time and some circuits don't come on? That usually is the switch adjustment. But if you are going to play with the switch you might want to take it off so you can clean and lube it. And while you have it out put the alignment pin in it before you put it back on. Cleaning up old leaks is par for the course on these trucks. At least someone replaced the part. And apparently they changed the diff lube. So someone did care for the truck. All in all, you've peeled a lot of layers on the onion. One of these days you can have a mess of onion rings! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Well an update for the past week or so. I got Big Blue polished up and looking much less oxidized. I also replaced the cab lights, I took one off to replace the lightbulb and it came apart in my hand. One of the exciting things was painting the gauges to get them looking closer to new. I showed my wife this picture and she couldn't figure out what was different. I'll remember that next time she gets a haircut ... Amazing what a little Orange Enamel paint can do. I also spent some time trying to fix an annoying issue that required me to push up on the steering wheel to engage the starter. When I was cleaning up, the steering wheel wasn't fully attached as the previous owner had replaced the turn signal, but didn't put everything back together. I pulled everything apart, cleaned it all, greased the actuators but the issue still existed. When I was cleaning it all, I took pictures of the actuator. It was VERY worn. I think this was causing ignition not to fully engage. So ... in my Junkyard adventures, I pulled one from another truck. Took me 45 minutes, to get a part that is only 3 inches long . No key, so I had to drill out the ignition switch to be able to get it out. A new one is about $90 ... they charged me for a big bolt ... $8. Here is the new one. Seems to be working better, but I'm still questioning if the ignition switch itself needs adjustment. At some point there may have been a power steering leak. I degreased it all and power washed the power steering pump, to give me a clear view. I think someone fixed it, but didn't clean up, we shall see. My latest adventures involve changing out the diff oil, I was very worried that it had never been changes, with close to 200,000 miles. BUT was pleasantly surprised to find that the diff cover must have been replaced after the lift was put on, as the RTV was pushed into the gap between the axle u-bolt. That would only have happened if the diff cover was pulled and re-seated, so I have that going for me. Needle looks great! I did mine around New Year's Used Testors That lock rack doesn't have to be so expensive. https://oldfomocoparts.com/fomoco-ford-1971-to-1980/catref/fomoco-ford-ford-1971-to-1980/ref/don558/1974-1979-ford-steering-column-actuator-d4az-3e723-a Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Needle looks great! I did mine around New Year's Used Testors That lock rack doesn't have to be so expensive. https://oldfomocoparts.com/fomoco-ford-1971-to-1980/catref/fomoco-ford-ford-1971-to-1980/ref/don558/1974-1979-ford-steering-column-actuator-d4az-3e723-a Truck look great all shined up On the gauge needle yes they look good in day light using what you did but at night you will not be able to see it unless you use white gauge lighting. I did mine the same as you, looks great in day light but at night going to work I cant see them as the green LED light just kills the orange needles. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Truck look great all shined up On the gauge needle yes they look good in day light using what you did but at night you will not be able to see it unless you use white gauge lighting. I did mine the same as you, looks great in day light but at night going to work I cant see them as the green LED light just kills the orange needles. Dave ---- That's why I painted the back side of the needles. Light can still shine out through the needle to illuminate them. But then, I have white LEDs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spike_time Posted February 22, 2021 Author Share Posted February 22, 2021 That's why I painted the back side of the needles. Light can still shine out through the needle to illuminate them. But then, I have white LEDs. Well I finally ran the gauntlet that is the California DMV and I am happy to say, he is registered with a clean title ... so away down the road I go!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 Well I finally ran the gauntlet that is the California DMV and I am happy to say, he is registered with a clean title ... so away down the road I go!! Congrat's!!!!! That has to be very good feeling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 Well I finally ran the gauntlet that is the California DMV and I am happy to say, he is registered with a clean title ... so away down the road I go!! You know they say the power of a 460 will pass everything but a gas station! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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