1985 F150 Bullnose 4x4 Project

So I did some measuring last night of my two transmissions. I have the AOD for sale, so it may disappear pretty quickly.

Anyway, according to the tape, the AOD bellhousing face to output flange is 26 11/16", and the M5OD is 29 1/16". So 2 3/8" difference overall. The rear mount difference is about 3", which makes sense as the M5OD crossmember I bought for my 1984 2wd was offset about 3" rearward. I assume the 4x4 M5OD crossmember is the same...

Anyway, since I didn't have to modify my driveshaft on my 2wd 5spd swap, I'm starting from scratch here.

Based on the info above, is it as simple as lengthening the front shaft by the 2 3/8", and shortening the rear by 2 3/8"? Since I will also be shortening the frame 16", that means the rear driveshaft would have to be shortened a total length of 18 3/8". Is that going to be OK?

Does anybody know if the 1988-1996 short wheel base 4x4 5spd F150 trucks just had a 1pc rear driveshaft? Nothing else I need to be concerned about here other than shortening the rear shaft by the 18 3/8"?

This isn't happening tomorrow or anything, but I'm just curious so I can file it away for when the time comes.

Thanks gents.

Yes, I do believe the 1988 trucks you described had a one-piece driveshaft.  Here's what I found.  And before you ask:

NOTE 1 - transfer case to frt. axle NOTE 2 - transfer case to rear axle
NOTE 104 - use 2-C3AZ 4635-G frt. & ctr., 1-C3AZ 4635-H rear
NOTE 118 - use C3AZ 4635-G frt. & ctr., C3AZ 4635-H rear, C7TZ 4841-A drv/shft, D7TZ 4841—D cpl/shft
NOTE 121 - use C3AZ 4635-H U/JT front & rear, C3AZ 4635-G U/JT center
NOTE 122 - "Before 2/88 NOTE 123 - "From 2/88"
NOTE 125 - E7TZ 4841-A yoke drv/shft end, D7TZ 4841-D yoke cpl/shft end, C3AZ 4635-H u/jt rr, C3AZ 4635-G u/jt frt & ctr
NOTE 158 - Campaign

Unfortunately, after '86 the listings didn't show the driveshaft length, so I can't tell you how long that one is.  But, I can say it was also used in the same '89 trucks.

Interesting that the wheelbase is indicated as 116". I thought the short wheel base trucks like mine were 117"? Mistake in the Ford chart?...

Rembrant wrote

...is it as simple as lengthening the front shaft by the 2 3/8", and shortening the rear by 2 3/8"? Since I will also be shortening the frame 16", that means the rear driveshaft would have to be shortened a total length of 18 3/8". Is that going to be OK?

If you think they're correct now, then that would keep them close to correct.  But since they're NOT exactly parallel to the frame, your frame-shortening distance isn't the same as the d'shaft distance.  The difference is PROBABLY negligible, but with all the mods you're doing, I wouldn't blindly take the chance.  This TSB is Ford's recommendation:



But ultimately, you really need to measure the distances between mounting surfaces AFTER the truck is built, with all its weight on the suspension.

http://www.4xshaft.com/MeasuringGuide.pdf

Rembrant wrote

I thought the short wheel base trucks like mine were 117"? Mistake in the Ford chart?

What does the VC label say?

Steve83 wrote

What does the VC label say?

For the Bullnose trucks, I've only ever seen 117" for short wheelbase. I was just wondering where the 116" came from on Gary's list above. I thought the 1987-1996 short wheelbase trucks were the same 117".

Steve83 wrote

Rembrant wrote

There is a small spot on the frame I'm going to need to repair. ...just removing the driver's side spring/shock tower.

These captions are relevant to those jobs:

Steve,

Do you have anything that on the frame crossmembers? Specifically, I'm looking for info on the rear cab crossmember, where the cab rear mounts sit.

Rembrant wrote

Do you have anything that on the frame crossmembers? Specifically, I'm looking for info on the rear cab crossmember, where the cab rear mounts sit.

I don't understand the question.  Those links apply to the whole frame, including all the crossmembers.  What info are you looking for?

Rembrant wrote

Steve83 wrote

Rembrant wrote

There is a small spot on the frame I'm going to need to repair. ...just removing the driver's side spring/shock tower.

These captions are relevant to those jobs:

Steve,

Do you have anything that on the frame crossmembers? Specifically, I'm looking for info on the rear cab crossmember, where the cab rear mounts sit.

First I have not looked at the chart so could be talking out my ....
As far as I know unless extended cab the frames are the same from front bumper mounts to that rear cab mount and from what I remember of the parts truck frame and mine they were the same.

Now I did not pay to much attention from rear of cab back on frame cross members.
I do know the bolt in one that is for the front mount of rear tank or for the under bed tire mount can be inter changed as I did that to mount the rear tank for my duel tank setup.

The other thing I know is the rear 3 bed (maybe it was 4? would have to look now) to frame bolts line up between the long bed & short bed trucks.
IIRC the short bed has 1 less set of bolts, the most forward set. I did need to move a bed cross member but did not need to drill new bed mounting holes and why I think 4.

Now in trying to mount the bed exh heat shields because the rear of the beds & frames seam to be the same the rear shield fit but the longer front one needs to fit between the bed & frame and I think just the short time I was trying to fit it the frame cross member was in a different place.
IIRC it was the next one back from the rear cab mount cross member above the muffler on a 300 six truck factory location.

Being you have both frames for measuring and I am pretty sure the rear cab mounts for standard cabs are in the same location measure from there on back to see where the next cross member lands.
Kind of what I had to do to see if I could use the parts truck rib metal floor to replace the wood floor but I had more fun as the long style side bed was still in place.
Dave ----

FuzzFace2 wrote

Being you have both frames for measuring and I am pretty sure the rear cab mounts for standard cabs are in the same location measure from there on back to see where the next cross member lands.

My question on the crossmember was kind of a false alarm. I wasn't looking for the location of the crossmember on the frame, I was looking for the size and location of the cab mount holes within the crossmember. When I was searching around some more, I found that Bronco Graveyard sells "Frame Saver" kits for $20 bucks, which will probably do the trick just fine. They're basically washers for repairing rusted out cab mount holes.

I have a lot of welding to do...lol. Oh well...I asked for it. 

Oh, and I stopped to look at a replacement cab today. The VIN tag was still on it, so I could confirm that it was a 1985 reg cab from a 2wd F150 with 300/6. It needs some work, but is pretty solid over all. Half a dozen small holes in the floor, and a couple holes in the roof I assume from one of those visors?...I dunno. A few little dings and spots to fix up, but no big deal over all. Cab corners and rockers all good. Cab mounting areas all good.

Did you make the purchase on that cab? Or are you still thinking it over...

Ford F834 wrote

Did you make the purchase on that cab? Or are you still thinking it over...

I did, yes, but won't be picking it up for a couple/few weeks. It needs more work than I'd like, but was the only one available within hundreds of miles.

Why do you ask? Do you have a nice dry Arizona cab laying around you want to ship??>..lol. If I found a better one I'd sell the one I have right quick...lol.

I managed to get the engine mostly stripped down today. EFI intake removed, water pump and front accessories, harmonic balancer, and exhaust manifolds.

I took a quick spin out to the junkyard afterwards to knock a couple parts of the list. At 20F, it wasn't a particular nice day to be crawling under old trucks, but it made me work very quickly...lol.

This old '96 F150 donated a manual trans starter to the project, as well as some factory bolts that I needed.



This old relic below donated a throttle cable bracket for the intake manifold. I was digging around for DSII stuff (was going to steal some wiring and plugs) until I found the distributor and realized the thing had a feedback carb. Bugger.



May go back sometime and snag all of the 302 AC mounting hardware and brackets. The stuff is rusty, but I'll not likely find the stuff ever again around here, so I might grab it for spare parts in case I can ever manage to find enough stuff to do an AC swap.

That looks COLD!  I worked outside at about 40F the other day with almost 100% humidity and it gave me a chill that was hard to shake.  The older I get the less I like cold.  

Anyway, glad you got some parts.  I'll stay warm and follow along from my arm chair.  

Gary Lewis wrote

That looks COLD!  I worked outside at about 40F the other day with almost 100% humidity and it gave me a chill that was hard to shake.  The older I get the less I like cold.  

I don't mind it if I'm working. Finger tips were a little nippy, but I was warm otherwise. Had boots and coveralls on, so I was well insulated.

I've got the heat cranked to 70F in the shop just to compensate.  Hope you can feel it.  

I pulled a bit more off the '85 EFI engine today. There was a fuel pump eccentric under the cover, so that is one less part that I need to go hunting for! The engine is a grungy mess. The valve covers look like they've been POURING oil since the 1990's.



And the timing cover should be an easy fix. The holes were already threaded (I ran a tap through them which is why they look so clean compared to the rest of the cover). Just need to open up the hole for the pump arm and I'll be good to go. Bingo.



I also got the NP208 t-case swapped over to the "new" filthy & dirty M5OD trans. I wanted to have both units sealed together before I take the pressure washer to it. That will get the bulk of the dirt and grime off them, and if I can't clean the rest with my assortment of wire wheels, I'll sand blast the buggers.

Steve83 wrote

This shows how easy it is to convert the wiring between solenoid starters & non-solenoids (swinging pole shoe):

The starter I grabbed at the junkyard yesterday is the later style (removed from a 1996 F150). It's not an original Ford unit unfortunately, but a Napa reman. I'll clean it up and test it soon as I do have a 30 day warranty on it.

I just came back to read the swap instructions here, and it couldn't be any simpler. Run main power from the hot side of the fender relay, and then use the relay to trigger the starter. That will be an easy fix.

umm...i have ac components in my 84 donor that i wont be using. i only have ducting out so far, but i'd be more than happy to remove everything necessary and ship it to you if youd like. will take pictures tomorrow, might be a little rusty, i dont remember.

Gary Lewis wrote

That looks COLD!  I worked outside at about 40F the other day with almost 100% humidity and it gave me a chill that was hard to shake.  The older I get the less I like cold.  

Anyway, glad you got some parts.  I'll stay warm and follow along from my arm chair.  

I hear you! Yesterday I got up at 3am to hit the garage and it was 40* out side and felt cold so never made it out.
Up at 6am today and it was 28* out side and just knew the garage was cold. Had to put something in my garage about 11am and it was 40*in there ........ yep to cold.
Both days I stayed in the house with the fire place going nice and warm besides the truck will still be there when I am ready

Dave ----