1983 F350 Restoration

I honestly don't know if it is a 2150 clone there wasn't any markings on the carb that I could find. I just ended up pulling it off and cleaning it thoroughly with some carb cleaner and went to Oreilly's and got a clear fuel filter for it of the hot rod section behind the counter, I believe the stock ones are 85 microns and this one is 100 microns, so not too much of a difference. I did have to pull the choke off and put the spring back in place that was in there because I tried to adjust it, and nothing was happening. Upon pulling it apart slowly I saw inside, and the spring wasn't even in the little fork that is inside there. Also, the idle screws on the bottom, 1 was all the way in and the other was almost set all the way out. So got it cleaned and all put back together and the only adjustments I messed with were the choke, idle speed screws on the bottom and had to adjust the throttle plates due to over half the throttle slot showing. got that from mikes videos on YouTube. Thanks for pointing me in that direction. I got it started and had to adjust the idle screws like three or four times as it wouldn't stay running, but finally I got to idle, probably not the best rpm setting but it is good enough for now. Now to tackle the coolant leak I got going on. I pulled the thermostat housing off because I noticed it had some small gaps between it and the intake manifold replaced the gasket with some gasket maker, bought a pack of gasket material ie cork and the paper gasket, I used the thicker cork material and smoothed out the surface of the thermostat housing as it wasn't perfectly flat not sure why. Little bit of back story on the engine, the previous owner put on a new water pump and somehow managed to crack the block on the driver's side by the timing cover, possibly might be an easy fix or might need a new motor entirely. I have a few ideas on how to fix the crack with the last resort being taking it to a welding shop. Seeing as how I am doing this with minimum funds available.
As far as what I do, I work for a small business owner currently in transport refrigeration, like refrigerated semi-trailers and box trucks. I wish during normal hours I could say I get paid well. Now after hours call outs those I do get paid well for, 60 an hour minimum 2hrs for the customer, so if it takes 30 minutes' drive time and work, I still get paid for 2hrs of work.

I'm glad you got your carb properly connected and can keep the truck running!  
And I'm glad you got something out of the video recommendation.

On the thermostat housing: Sometimes I like to check for flat by trying to rock castings like that against a flat surface, like a marble tile if you don't have a surface plate.
You can also lap them with a sheet of 220 wet-or-dry carbide sandpaper.
If you get the paper (and the tile) wet it will stay flat while you make figure 8 patterns.
If people over tighten them, or the thermostat slips out of its recess it's really easy to bend the housing flange or break it entirely.
Those Windsor thermostats often come with an adhesive sided gasket to hold them in the pocket, just because of that.

Maybe the PO mixed up the water pump bolts?
When I take mine apart I use a sharpie to trace the new pump on the box and make a slit in the cardboard where each hole is.
When I take the bolts out I put each one where it came from (that way I can't mix up the different lengths)

That's a very important job, with plenty of opportunity for emergency work.
Cold chain is critical and a truck full of thawed meat or wilted produce is worth way more than whatever you guys get for a call out.
Thanks for what you do!  

Its been a minute since I got on here and posted. Life wanted to throw me a curve ball, my last boss let me go right before thanksgiving. So working on the truck has been put on hold until now. I have a new job (not much free time) but the wife is tired of having one working vehicle so I am trying to get the 83 up and running as well as drivable. the problem I have now is that when I took of the plate with the pulleys on it and got everything out of the way to remove the water pump I forgot how it goes back together and forgot to take pictures when removing the stuff. Can anyone point me in the right direction on anything to reference for reinstallation?

I don't know if this will help, but:

Go to Documentation/Cooling Systems/Water Pump #'s & Illustrations: There are several illustrations of the way the pumps go on there.

Go to Documentation/Engines/Windsor and in the top Illustrations tab you'll find several that might help.

Thank you for the info. I will definitely take a look at it the next chance I get to work on the truck like I said my wife is tired of just one vehicle. So sooner rather that later it will be happening.