why we ask for answers and advise

more of a story than anything else. however, it's true. let me start by saying that not everyone should be doing mechanic work. it really is NOT for everybody. if you have the mind to do it, rock on! i will help if i can. i have a 94 f150 in the shop. bad brakes, engine runs rough and hunts for a tune, will not settle on a rpm to be happy with. pulled codes.  ect open.   so, i start with a new ect. sensor and it runs better but not right. then the observations start! i see a cast iron water pump rusting through a little paint.then i noticed the dist cap firing order 1,5,4 .... start verifying ... the truck, therefore the ecu is 1,3, 7....so I correct it. it runs no different, yet the catalytic converter starts glowing. so now i pull the upper and valve covers and sure enough the engine is 1,5,4... with an injector sequence of 1,3,7... i run the number on the water pump and it is for a v belt system cw rotation but installed as ccw and serpentine system. Sigh.... phone call to owner... more time and money needed.... it now has a correct firing order cam, proper rotation timing cover and water pump. starts, runs, and drives great! however, now that it seems to like its tune and idles smooth and steady one thing remains. it shakes immediately after letting off of the throttle. so, I look at the flywheel, it is the 50oz imbalance as expected although missing one of the converter nuts. this is very obvious to me that it is a car engine by the oil pan and lack of knock sensor. what is the chance that its a 28oz assembly with 50 oz damper and flexplate. gotta love mysteries. ps. this was driven to me with a badly leaking steering gear and no lock nut on either end if the pitman arm! and driver side caliper dragging!

Yes, some people should just not play mechanic.  Man, what a mess!  How many tries did it take someone to mess up so many things?  Surely he didn't do it in one go, so why didn't he stop on the first error?

I'm thinking it's a collage. assembled over time. with each step saying, " it runs, it must be right".
my wonder is how much has it been driven in this type of condition? how many years? how many miles?
 how far from home?  
the drag link did not really fight me coming off and with a caliper dragging this truck would have veered left if it did not take a hard right had it come off on the highway. my daughter and grandkids could have been coming the other way! (She lives near where this truck came from)
guys I'm an old hotrodder and still drive a little harder than I probably should now and then.  it is imperative that your stuff be bolted together! cotter pins! good air pressure! no dry rotted tires!

mat in tn wrote

so, I look at the flywheel, it is the 50oz imbalance as expected although missing one of the converter nuts. this is very obvious to me that it is a car engine by the oil pan and lack of knock sensor. what is the chance that its a 28oz assembly with 50 oz damper and flexplate. gotta love mysteries.

Does the block have a 1pc rear main lip seal, or the old tradition 2 pc rope style? If it has a 1pc rear main seal, it is likely to have a 50oz crank. I can only say likely as I'm not 100% sure both changed at the exact same time, but the change to 50oz and 1pc rear main seal happened in 1982 (I think) and a lot of people assume that they changed at the same time. Some of the 5.0L engine block changes are mysteries, at least as far as WHEN the changes happened.

The oil pan dipstick location might provide some hints as well.

I agree that some people shouldn't be allowed to touch tools...lol. Ford does have a lot of mysteries, and the 302 is probably the worst of them all.

I'm not digging any deeper at this time. i cannot certify rear main without disassembly. customers call at this time. two-piece rear mains also had a slinger cast on the crank unlike the 5.0 not sure they can be installed in each other's blocks, but I have never tried nor asked if anyone had. it is a roller block and i just did a camshaft so i know it firsthand

Oh if it’s a roller block then definitely a 50z. The cranks can’t be swapped without machining the blocks.

Rembrant wrote

The cranks can’t be swapped without machining the blocks.

Sounds like a challenge the owner might take on

that's certainly my understanding and experience too

Gary, you don't suppose your man down in Florida also worked on mat's truck, do ya....LOL!

It sure sounds like he's been moonlighting.  

Speaking of the "Previous Owner Blues"...

I'm trying to clean up this old Mustang Foxbody carbed 4bbl intake manifold. It was rough, and dirty, but it was also very cheap so I can't complain too much, but...

The upper thermostat housing bolt hole has been buggered up almost to becoming useless lol. It is supposed to be 5/16". Somebody stripped it at some point and tapped in partially to 3/8". Obviously that didn't work, so it was tapped partially again to 7/16" lol. So now the hole is like a cone shape, and it's not even centered.

Using the few remaining 5/16" threads in the bottom of the hole I stuck a short length of threaded rod in there with Loctite. It did tighten pretty good. I then filled the rest of the hole with metal filled 2-part epoxy.
I'll trim the rod off later and use an acorn nut on it to keep it "pretty".

...if it works...lol. Fingers crossed.

Too big for a heli coil of that size.....bummer!

Machspeed wrote

Too big for a heli coil of that size.....bummer!

That’s how it should have been repaired the first time!

Guys - this is why I bought my truck.  I've seen so many of these things "modified" out in the marketplace and also "repainted".  Most repaints consist of Krylon or Rustoleum flat black.  I suspect most mods have similar quality issues - LOL.  I found my truck in original - unmolested mechanical condition.  It didn't matter to me that it didn't run.  What mattered was that it hadn't been messed with by unqualified mechanics.  Much easier to fix if I don't have to deconstruct poor workmanship from the past.

BTW, the original trans and engine work now (I'm living with the leaks)- including the rare EEC-III system, which is fully plumbed and operational.  All stock - no mods.

Yes, the modifications most PO's inflict on their trucks are usually very poorly done, and frequently downright dangerous.  Little did I know what I was getting into with Big Blue, but  had been smoking some serious stuff when he worked on this truck.  

You have a beautiful truck, and I'm so glad you are keeping it original.  

Gary Lewis wrote

Little did I know what I was getting into with Big Blue, but  had been smoking some serious stuff when he worked on this truck.  

What do they say "you dont get anything (good) for nothing"
Dave ----