proportion valve for my truck

ArdWrknTrk wrote

...looking at that Haynes drawing...

The first one I grabbed is a blue-cover '80-96 edition with good wiring diagrams up to p.12-63, and only the later 36058 part number (not the older 880).  The cross-section diagrams (illustration 9.1) at the top of p.9-14 are what I'm looking at.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

...the spring centered shuttle...

None of the diagrams in this Haynes show any spring in the valve.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

...the spring loaded switch's pin...

I agree, there has to be a spring in the switch, but the switch isn't shown in cross-section in the diagram I'm looking at.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

...switch's pin to drop into the shuttle groove (setting off the light)...

Actually, the groove is the center/OFF position.  It's when the piston slides off-center that the switch pin is depressed, turning on the light.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

...the position of the O-rings...

There are no O-rings shown, but I assume that's what it means by "seal" in 2 places on the piston.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

...the O-rings preclude the flow of brake fluid to that side.

Not on this one - the seals only keep the switch groove & pin dry.  They never enter the areas where the brake fluid passes from one port to any other, so that flow is never inhibited.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Show what you know.

What diagram are you seeing that shows the valve you're describing?  If it's a Haynes: what color cover, what PNs, and what year range?

And again: mine always worked the way Haynes described & shows.  It never restricted flow.  I don't even remember ever using the bleed pin (which mine has).

Double post, sorry.  

Right now I'm looking at the thread Gary linked.

***edit, Chris's fig.50-42A certainly has springs in both ends, and o-rings, and needs the plunger held to bleed....

As Chris says there, the missing FoMoCo cutaway *should be* the standard by which others are judged.

I've seen so much generic BS in Haynes manuals that are "based on an actual teardown" that I don't hold a lot of hope.

Steve could u hit me up about the valve.  thank u 732 779 4646 joe

Joe
Click my username, and send me an e-mail.  I keep odd hours.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

...the missing FoMoCo cutaway...

IDK what you mean. I see a few cutaways in that thread.  But if it's missing, how can anyone refer to it, or use it as a standard?

The brass one that seems to be the topic of the thread doesn't look OE to me.  Mine seems to match the last diagram in post #29.



I assume you've been talking about the 2nd diagram in that post, which does seem to show a blockoff valve, but it's in the proportioning section - not the switch (piston) section.  But mine isn't like that, and IDK what vehicle that diagram applies to.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I've seen so much generic BS in Haynes manuals...

Yes, there are certainly some mistakes - even in the Ford manuals.  But Haynes is something that's commonly available, so we can all look at the same thing.

Are we sure the valve is getting psi for the rear part from the master?
I know he said he got nothing OUT of the valve going to the rear but is nothing is going into the valve you would get nothing coming out.

Also if the system was open for a long time or replaced all the lines so it is mostly dry it will take a lot to get 1 side or the other to build presser.
I open all bleeders over night or 2 till I get fluid out. I close that one and let the others to get wet.
I then start at bleeding the master like it was new out of the box.
I then move to the first fitting and crack it to get fluid and work my way thru the system till I am at each wheel to do the bleeding at them.

I think he just did not go back far enough, only to the outlet side of the valve, he needs to go back farther to test the master & lines.
Dave ----

Dave, you've got a good point.
It's the same as not bench bleeding a new MC.

You're never going to get fluid on the other side, unless you back bleed.

When I bled the ones on my convertible, which has the dual diagonal system, LF & RR then RF & LR paired, I opened the bleeder screws on all 4 corners until I started seeing fluid drip. As each caliper started dripping I closed that bleeder screw. The right rear, which has the longest line took close to 1 1/2 hrs before any fluid appeared. When I had an available helper, I bled them the rest of the way, very few bubbles and only on the rear calipers.

I tried one last thing to try to clear the valve.  I pushed air into it and whatever was blocking it is now free.  this weekend I am going to hook it up and see if I can bleed the brakes!!  fingers crossed!

Read that linked thread from the beginning.
It may as well be about your problem.

Also note; the 'brass block' proportioning valve is for all heavy duty 250 & 350 trucks, not something aftermarket.
And the spring clip tool to hold the plunger out while bleeding.

You might consider trying to clean it out before reinstalling.
I suggested that they get dirty and full of sludge after 35 years, and this can cause the piston to stick if it travels too far into the usually unused portion of the bore.

I use PAG compatible A/C system cleaner to clean out calipers.
https://www.autozone.com/a-c-charging-and-refrigerant/a-c-system-cleaner/a-c-pro-flush-system-cleaner-aerosol-spray-17oz/896840_0_0
It is okay for glycol and won't eat the seals.

hey Steve.  I have tried emailing u three times but I keep getting my emails sent back to me saying Undelivered mail retuned to sender.

I'm not sure how you are doing it, but you should be able to do it by clicking on his "handle", the Steve83 bit, and clicking on Send Email to Steve83.

I just sent you one, and a copy to myself, and it showed up instantly.

i emailed u right back after getting your email.  did u get mine?

I need your mailing address.