WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

Jochen - That is a really cool sight!  A Ford truck taking a Ford truck to the body shop - in Germany!  

Your truck looks great.  And, it appears to be running and driving well.

What year is your buddy's truck?  A '72?

Cory - I don't know anything about the 8.8.  Don't have anything on the website re their specs, and haven't worked on them.  Sorry.

As for organization, I have dividers for the pliers and little holders for the end wrenches and sockets.  But I'm not going to tout my organization.

Cory - The sign by the thermostat behind your tool box.  I thought it was going to say 'And the sign said "Long-haired freaky people need not apply"'.  Guess not.  What's the story on it?

Thanks Gary, indeed you don‘t see that a lot in Germany. My truck does well currently after changing the intake manifold gasket and everything from distributor to the sparks. Currently on my way back from the Netherlands and my son is driving. He is moving to study in NL. The truck is really working good and hard for us. 

Jochen - It isn't far to the frontier, but where in the Netherlands is he going?  And what is he going to study?

Anyway, glad the truck is doing so well.  Very good to see the Ford trucks being appreciated elsewhere.  

The old school barber shop I go to has that same hippie sign on the wall!

What's a Hippie?  *shrug

I know what a Hipster is.
I know what a Yippie is.
I know what a Yuppy is.

I  adjusted the toe in on the passenger side of my truck yesterday as it has had too much after replacing the drag link recently. I went too far at first but corrected it after the test ride. It now drives and stops strait as an arrow. Soon to be done is hooking up my rear tank as my tank switch valve still works and would like to take advantage of the extra capacity when I can get my fuel at a good price. Some time down the road I will need to replace my swing arm bushings as well as they are starting to show their age.

Gary, my son is going to Breda. We did about 180 miles today in a round trip from home

Jochen - It isn't far to the frontier, but where in the Netherlands is he going?  And what is he going to study?

Anyway, glad the truck is doing so well.  Very good to see the Ford trucks being appreciated elsewhere.  

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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NAML

That's a good trip, Jochen.  All of it pretty much on level ground?  What kind of speeds did you drive?

Found this under my truck today:



Came out a whole lot easier than expected, too.

White Knite - How much toe-in are you running?  When the dust settles on the D60 install I'll need to set ball park alignment so want to know roughly where to start.

Cory - You just found it?  Or did it sort happen after pulling 4 nuts off?  

I've learned to take those off with the truck on the ground as the way the rear suspension moves forward when you lift it up makes getting it off very difficult, if not impossible.  But on the ground it has been quite easy.

Ummm, I think that's Matthew..

I'm going to try to document what I did with my windshield wipers yesterday.

My wipers stutter and I can move one about 2-3" before the other one moves.

I thought all this was down to bad bushings, but it turns out that most of it is the output bushing on the motor gearbox.
So, I guess that's coming up when I have the spare $.

Anyway, let's dig in...

First remove the arms by lifting and prying out on the retainer clip.
I've switched to later style hook arms because of a better selection of blades.



Bricknose cowls are a little different because the top screws are not hidden in the slots of the Bullnose style cowl.



If your cowl/hood seal is bad, now is a good time to head to the insulation department and get a garage door weatherstrip.
Frost King  and MD are two brands I know work.

Remove the screws across the top of the firewall. Don't forget the ones outside of the hinges.
Disconnect the sprayers, and when loose the antenna.

Getting the cowl off with the hood in place is tricky (no photos) but you can work it off with the hood 1/2 way open.

Down inside you can see the linkage.





You need to lift and slide the little clip holding the bars onto the motor shaft.

Then you can remove the wiper pivots and links.



I removed my motor because I saw the play in it at this point.



Then I removed the bushings and reassembled the bars to the wiper pivots.





And I noticed a bit of crap down by the drains.
I had determined to eliminate the rubber spouts at this point.






As they say 'in for a penny, in for a pound'...
I flushed the cowl and scrubbed it clean.



I set to work cleaning, painting, replacing the bushings.
I also took the opportunity to remove the blower motor and feel around for tinder on the resistor.



I painted and reinstalled the blower.
The plug was disintegrating, so....


Installation is the reverse of removal.
Make a new gasket if yours is shot, and make sure it is well sealed above the wiper motor.



Using an awl or icepick helps finding and lining up the screw holes.



Diid I solve my problem?
No, not entirely.
But now I know to expect a 32 year old wiper motor is going to have worn bushings. And I did get to clean up a bunch of stuff before it becomes a problem.

 

In an update to my new Speedisleeve and FMS, everything looks nice and dry.   


Always pre lube the seal, so it doesn't start dry!

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I'm going to try to document what I did with my windshield wipers yesterday.

My wipers stutter and I can move one about 2-3" before the other one moves.

I thought all this was down to bad bushings, but it turns out that most of it is the output bushing on the motor gearbox.
So, I guess that's coming up when I have the spare $.

Did I solve my problem?
No, not entirely.
But now I know to expect a 32 year old wiper motor is going to have worn bushings. And I did get to clean up a bunch of stuff before it becomes a problem.

So what is needed to remove all the slop?
Before I put mine back in I would like to go over it the if any slop fix it.

BTW where did you get the bushings and have a part number?
Thanks
Dave ----

In my case the shaft coming out of the motors gearbox is at least half of it.
I'll get a new motor soon.

The bushings are Dorman HELP!
I'll see if I can find the receipt.

Well done, Jim!  Good writeup on the wiper linkage, motor, bushings, etc.  

And, obviously you did a good job on the timing cover and front main.  No leaks.  I'm sure looking forward to that on Big Blue.

Also, you are right, it was Matthew not Cory that had the driveshaft fall out under his truck.  

Well, after reviewing Jim's pictures, there's no way an bullnose wiper motor will fit a bricknose cab, so looks like I'm going to have to make my 86 harness work with the newer motor. I feel like that's a lot easier said than done.

What is the pinout on a Bullnose wiper motor Shaun?

Gary has the EVTM for my '87 here on the site.  

Not sure, I haven't looked into it that far yet, but the Bullnose motor has one connector, and the Bricknose has two. I think the bricknose harness has more wires than the bullnose and that's what I need to look into.