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Testing a solenoid

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IowaTom

Testing a solenoid

I've developed an issue that's led to holding my breath when I hit the key. I think my starter solenoid is going south but before I start throwing money at it, I'd like an opinion.

One day it wouldn't restart. Acted like a bad battery connection. Just a faint click and nothing else. Got out and gave the terminals a wiggle and it came to life as usual. This has become more frequent now. My cables are clean and good with tight connections, so naturally I'm thinking the first "domino" in the line (and cheapest) might be the offender. The solenoid.

I'd replaced the old, clunky starter with a newer, lighter weight job that my auto electric buddy rectummended and it's worked out great. Again, good tight clean connections.

Is there an easy way to test the solenoid? I have a hand-held starter switch. Before I start trying to jump things I might melt, I'd like your thoughts. You guys know this stuff better'n me. Thanks!

'85 F150 XLT 4X4 with 300 c.i. six & NP435 four speed.
'63 Studebaker Avanti - 350/TH350
'59 Rambler Super - OHV 6 with 3-speed OD
'58 Studebaker Scotsman sedan - 289 with 3-speed OD

Gary Lewis

Re: Testing a solenoid

Administrator

There's a very easy way to test it. If you jump from the front terminal to the little one on top the relay should energize and the starter should spin - even if the transmission is in gear! And if you jump from the front terminal to the rear terminal the starter should spin but the relay won't come in - again regardless of what gear the tranny is in.

Just use your starter switch to do the jumping on the little terminal. But although you have a PMGR starter and the relay isn't carrying much current, the switch might not be up to handling jumping to the rear terminal. For that you could use a screwdriver or a pair of pliers.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

IowaTom

Re: Testing a solenoid

Thank you, Gary, it worked like a charm! Going to replace the solenoid tomorrow!

'85 F150 XLT 4X4 with 300 c.i. six & NP435 four speed.
'63 Studebaker Avanti - 350/TH350
'59 Rambler Super - OHV 6 with 3-speed OD
'58 Studebaker Scotsman sedan - 289 with 3-speed OD

Gary Lewis

Re: Testing a solenoid

Administrator

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

IowaTom

Re: Testing a solenoid

Ugh... I replaced the solenoid with all connections clean & tight. Hit the key and nothing. No click but my dome light dimmed. Where to look next..? Neutral safety switch on the clutch?

My ground cable is attached to a starter bolt. Again, clean & tight and was reliable starting before this bug bit. Thanks for any suggestions!

Oh, I did replace my loosey-goosey ignition switch several months ago but followed the line-up procedure on this website.

'85 F150 XLT 4X4 with 300 c.i. six & NP435 four speed.
'63 Studebaker Avanti - 350/TH350
'59 Rambler Super - OHV 6 with 3-speed OD
'58 Studebaker Scotsman sedan - 289 with 3-speed OD

Gary Lewis

Re: Testing a solenoid

Administrator

I'd sort of start over. Use your start jumper/switch from the front terminal to the top terminal - remembering that the starter should spin so have the truck in neutral.

If that works then the relay is good. And the fact that the lights dim when you turn the key I think it is. Which means you have a bad cable/connection or the engine is locked up. And I think it is a bad cable/connector connection. Cables can look good but be corroded inside such that they have a bad connection from the wire to the connector.

That puts you into "voltage drop testing". You can find it on the page at Documentation/Electrical/Voltage Drop Testing. But basically you are going to check the voltage drop across your cables while you engage the starter. The voltage drop should basically be 0, but I'll bet it is several volts. And that means you've found a bad cable/connection.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

IowaTom

Re: Testing a solenoid

You're terrific, Gary!

BTW, off topic here, but have you ever seen Vice Grip Garage on YouTube? My favorite videos. :-)

'85 F150 XLT 4X4 with 300 c.i. six & NP435 four speed.
'63 Studebaker Avanti - 350/TH350
'59 Rambler Super - OHV 6 with 3-speed OD
'58 Studebaker Scotsman sedan - 289 with 3-speed OD

Gary Lewis

Re: Testing a solenoid

Administrator

Happy to help, Tom.

Yes, I've seen that channel. Pretty helpful.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

IowaTom

Re: Testing a solenoid

I'm sure I found the issue! I have around 17 things stacked on the battery lug of the solenoid, topped off with one big nut. The hot cable that goes to the starter was at the bottom of the stack and I gave it a tug and it wiggled a LOT. Tomorrow I'll pick up a couple of jam nuts and cinch everything down tight.
I bet she fires up sprightly! Stay tuned. :-)

'85 F150 XLT 4X4 with 300 c.i. six & NP435 four speed.
'63 Studebaker Avanti - 350/TH350
'59 Rambler Super - OHV 6 with 3-speed OD
'58 Studebaker Scotsman sedan - 289 with 3-speed OD

Gary Lewis

Re: Testing a solenoid

Administrator

Yippee! That would do it.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ratdude747

Re: Testing a solenoid

In reply to this post by IowaTom

And this is why I redid the power distribution on mine... No more overstacked solenoid posts!

At the very least, I'd suggest replacing the positive battery cable with a direct link to the starter and then crimping a ring terminal pigtail to the aux lead (Walmart part number in the link above). Shrinks down the number of wires on the stud and eliminates a potential bad connection in the starter feed.

1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).