Suspension parts needed

I need to replace my left side camber and caster adjuster.  And My right outer tie rod.   LMC says the rod is backed ordered and they don’t have camber/caster.   Anyone know who else would carry this?

I don’t order parts like that from LMC. Instead I go to the Rock Auto site, figure out the part numbers for vendors like Moog, and then shop for them. And usually end up buying them on Amazon.

Does anyone know if it’s the top or bottom one? Thank u.     

I can't answer the question directly, but I put McQuay-Norris AA3951 units in Dad's truck.

 this is on ebay

I seen three different designs and I have been told the  2x4 and 4x4 r different.  Trying to figure out what ones I need

I don't know if the 2wd and 4wd are different.  But I'd use the Rock Auto catalog to guide me.  Amazon's fit isn't always right, but so far Rock's has been.

snakebite8 wrote

Does anyone know if it’s the top or bottom one? Thank u.  

The upper one is fixed position, and the lower one is adjustable in place. The top one pictured is also zero degree...so it's not really an adjustment at all...but they come from the factory with those most of the time.

So the upper one, if it did have an off center degree, would have to be pressed out to be adjusted. The lower one can be adjusted in place by simply loosening the nut.

snakebite8 wrote

 this is on ebay

These are castor adjusters for the radius arms. I've seen these online many times, but I have actually never seen them used, in person or on the web.

The few twin I-beam trucks I had were all very easy to align. They're usually only an issue if the suspension is worn, or modified.

I talked to an old guy that used to do a lot of alignments on old Ford trucks, and he said he spent years trying to align trucks with negative camber issues, and he said every single one of them could have been fixed with new coil springs lol.

These days with everybody either lowering or lifting the trucks, alignment issues are the norm. Not that there's anything wrong with that...twin I-beams are what they are...

what means of diagnosing was used?
these have a camber bushing which goes into the spindle from inside and the bushings usually have a shaped rim similar to a 12 point box wrench. the next generation had bushings that go in from the top into the I beam instead of the spindle and those bushings look like the first one you showed.
I have mostly seen the two piece compound adjustable bushings on 4wd.
 the early method of adjusting caster on the kingpin I beams was to use the offset bushings on the radius arms as when you lower the radius arm anchor point you also tilted the kingpin top back adding caster. This had no real effect on camber as that was relative to ride height only.
after installing the new springs I'm sure that you have a positive camber now and possibly little to no caster. this can be very frustrating to get correct without the means of properly measuring these two angles by their degrees, checking which bushings are installed and calculating what is needed. unfortunately even in a city the size of Nashville TN I only trust one shop to get this correct. most don't understand twin I beam geometry. I hope you can find one there who does.

I went back and reviewed the tire rub thread. the pics of the truck after the springs look good and I can certainly see positive camber in the one that is more strait on. I can also see that the tire is flush with the fender edge and not in a bit. it will rub!  when you lower one you must move in a bit. there is not an easy way around it. the fender is one part. the inner fender is another and they mount together to "roll in " on an arch for the tire to go when it moves upwards. when you move the outer edge of the tire outward you push it into this "shared space". this is one of the reasons I install good sway bars when I drop a truck. not only does it reduce body roll, but it gives "resistance to articulation". everything comes at the cost of something else! you may tweak a few times before you find a compromise that you can live with.
one point that I will say. check between the spring seats and the radius arms. some of the time we see the use of large washers as shims there. due to the pivot design, adding washers there lifts the truck about 125 percent of the thickness of the washer. but in doing so it adds camber also. if yours has washers there it may be a benefit to back up and remove them. that will reduce camber and caster but only a little and yes it will put the tire closer to the fender. or you could even add them to get the clearance that you want and find a good alignment shop to get the offset bushings just right. but do all of your work first.