Square peg in a roudf hole (heater core)

Got the heater core changed out in the pick up.
I have had it for a long time and I been smelling it more and more so about time I changed it.
Other than 1 hose fighting me coming off it cam out pretty easy.

Going back in was a different story.
They make 2 different shape ones and guess what, yep I got the wrong one.
I dont even know if you can get the other one or not so in it went LOL.'
The old rubber gasket did not fit right because of the shape so I cut it to fit, that did not workout as planed 
I had some house rubber weather strips and that is I found out the different shapes as the new core would not fit even with out the strips.
A little force and I was able to get the cover back on.

Everything hooked back up, hoses hot but no hot air blowing out 
I am moving control levers and still nothing
Mashed the throttle to the floor a few times and I got heat?
Maybe it was air locked and the high RPM pushed coolant thru?

We now have heat and no smell of coolant

AC or non- AC heater cores...(I think the high output heater takes the AC one regardless)

Shouldn't be able to get air locked. The heater circuit is the thermostat bypass and takes coolant directly from the head back to the pump.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

AC or non- AC heater cores...(I think the high output heater takes the AC one regardless)

Shouldn't be able to get air locked. The heater circuit is the thermostat bypass and takes coolant directly from the head back to the pump.

Factory AC
I am sure I ordered it for factory AC but from what I have seen posted there are 2 different shapes.
I should have taken pictures, the one I pulled out had round corners at the top but the replacement had square corners up top. The AC housing at the top also was round and why the core would not fit in just right.

I dont know if you can get the rounded top core or not?
I should do a search for posts about this to see what was said.

It was the heater core that was air locked as both hoses were hot but only cool air coming out.
Dave ----

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1640012-heater-core-which-one.html

The ones with squared off header tanks don't work.

I think you need one with this shape.


Link:   https://a.co/d/ixisS0t

FuzzFace2 wrote

It was the heater core that was air locked as both hoses were hot but only cool air coming out.
Dave ----

So you have hot coolant circulating through the heater core (both hoses hot) but the heater core is air locked..  🤔

I've cut these in half (photos back on FTE) and it's simply not possible for coolant to flow and it to bypass the heater core.
Maybe your coffee can is leaking vacuum again and the doors aren't switching the way they should?

Some of us (Gary & others) are running a Ranger style Max A/C bypass valve in the heater loop.
I still live up here in CT and don't have any need for that sort of thing.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

FuzzFace2 wrote

It was the heater core that was air locked as both hoses were hot but only cool air coming out.
Dave ----

So you have hot coolant circulating through the heater core (both hoses hot) but the heater core is air locked..  🤔

I've cut these in half (photos back on FTE) and it's simply not possible for coolant to flow and it to bypass the heater core.
Maybe your coffee can is leaking vacuum again and the doors aren't switching the way they should?

Some of us (Gary & others) are running a Ranger style Max A/C bypass valve in the heater loop.
I still live up here in CT and don't have any need for that sort of thing.

Yep both hoses were hot but cool air blowing out any of the vent outlets.

No the control for the outlets works by vacuum on factory AC systems.
The temp control is by cable on all systems IIRC
When I switched between floor / vents / defrost it worked as it should just not hot.
It was not till I mashed the throttle to the floor a few times did it start to get warm but not hot like before the core swap.

Yes I also run the vacuum bypass valve like the others but I think my control leaks internal as it will not pull enough vacuum to work the bypass valve and I had to mod it to work but it still will not close all the way to stop hot air blowing when temp is to cold.
Because of that I am thinking of removing the bypass.

But again if both hoses to the core were hot, could hardly hold them, but blowing cold air when control on hot what would you call that?

I took the truck to the food store and it was pretty cool so had the heat on.
It was nice not to smell coolant and it did warm the cab but I may see if I can get the right core and swap it out as it was not that hard.
Did not even have to drain the system as the core was higher than the radiator.
Dave ----

Sounds like you fixed one problem but have another - the blend door hinge is broken.

Gary Lewis wrote

Sounds like you fixed one problem but have another - the blend door hinge is broken.

No it dose work as I can move the lever from defrost to floor to vent and back and the air will change.

I do have to move the lever to AC and back to vent to get air out the vents but defrost and floor and back is no issues.
With the vacuum not strong enough to work the heater bypass valve is another reason why the HVAC control is leaking internal but they can be a little hard to find and then find a good one is a crap shoot.
I also cant remember what year the control is as a member got it for me when I needed it.

One day when it bothers me enough I will look into getting a replacement LOL
Dave ----

So the heater core I got a long time ago that was for my truck, factory AC, did not fit so good but I forced it in.
I do get heat but not great like with the old core. I think this is because the core not sealing right in the box and if I had to could live with it but I cant really live with it LOL

So last week I picked up another core that by pictures on line looked like it was the one. Murray #94522 high output
In the on line info it was not for factory AC but if you used the filter it came up as 1 of 2, the other the one that dose not fit.
Murray #94582 AC and normal out put heat.
It also said "high out put" but it is not marked on the HVAC box as such but the shape is right?

I looked at it when I got it and the shape of the core looked good but .... there is always a but....... the hose nipples do not come straight out?
The new core is just a little wider than the old but other wise looked good.
I then took it to the truck and held it up and there is no way to get the hoses on as the nipples would be up to the HVAC box?

I did look at my old non-AC HVAC box and the core nipples do hook like the new one I got.
By the on line picture the normal output core no AC nipples do hook like this one.
I did not pull that core out of the HVAC box to see the shape of it.

So now I will return this right shape core / wrong nipples and look for a ADPI / PRO #9010205 core as I have seen it posted that should fit.
​​​​​​​Dave ----

ArdWrknTrk wrote

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1640012-heater-core-which-one.html

The ones with squared off header tanks don't work.

I think you need one with this shape.


Link:   https://a.co/d/ixisS0t

I just checked on this link and NA with no date when or if it will come back
Dave ----

Had the wife order the core off Amazon ADPI #9010205 and from the picture looked just like the one Jim linked to.
Also reviews said it fit where others did not like we all have seen.
Will not be here till   think end of the month but I am OK with that.
I have a core that will warm up the cab just dose not cook you out like the old one as I think air is bypassing the core.

I have to return the wrong one but I cant get the truck out of the garage.
Having a new roof put on the house and my garage and it is block in
Dave ----