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Speedometer cable

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Gary Lewis

Re: Speedometer cable

Administrator

Sounds like you are making progress.

My seal took a few taps to seat properly. And yes, getting the old one out took a lot of force. There was no doubt early on that it was going to be destroyed.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

El Chapo

Re: Speedometer cable

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Ok just trying to get my terminology up to par with you guys. And get some free knowledge from the experts.. The driven gear is the smaller plastic 20 tooth gear that is clipped on to end the speed sensor correct? the drive gear… in my case is an 8 tooth gear affixed to a steel sleeve that slips onto the output shaft. Question is if this sleeve / gear just slips on and turns freely on the shaft what makes it rotate at the same speed as a moving & rotating shaft? Is it friction or is it that once the knuckle is bolted back on its secured in place and rotate as one. To answer an earlier question from Gary I don’t think I will need a driven gear mine looks perfectly fine in fact new (maybe the po had attempted a fix by simply replacing it only, I can now see why) weird that the drive gear on the shaft is obviously bad and the other looking newish, It clips right on and engages the cable as it should. I’ll post my results when I get back to it. Peace!

86 Bronco XLT “La Bronkita” Tow/light pkg. 302/EFI, BW1345

Gary Lewis

Re: Speedometer cable

Administrator

You are right in your terminology: the drive gear is on the transfer case's output shaft, and it drives the "driven" gear on the end of the speedo cable.

As for the drive gear slipping, go read my thread from the link above as that's exactly the problem I had. The nut on the output shaft wasn't tight enough and the gear was slipping. Now that it is torqued down I have no problems.

But something chewed up the drive gear. Did you say the cable was bad? Maybe it bound up?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

mat in tn

Re: Speedometer cable

that is a valid point. as long as the driven gear is not " feeling" excessive resistance there should be no reason for the failure of this type. assuming the correct gear combination. it's common for these to have a low-speed pulse if the cable is kinked, bent too tight around other components or needs grease. really whoever takes the spline flex shaft out to grease them? no one..... unless they are old school mechanics like me. a good grease for these is also sold for flex shafts in weed eaters. imagine that. it may not be ford specific but it's a good substitute. especially compared to not greasing it.

El Chapo

Re: Speedometer cable

Thank you Gary and Mat. And others As a newbie always glad and appreciative of all of the help, encouragement and guidance I get from this forum and btw: I brag on you guys all the time especially when people ask in amazement “how do you even know what to do? Or where did you get that?” Haha ..my time to shine the spotlight here on ya’ll So many of you are very generous in many way thank you! I just received a package of trim molding that I needed at no charge to me not even the shipping cost. Wow you guys are the best! Back to Bronkita. Yeah interesting how things progress all I wanted was my speedometer etc to work nice knowing how fast or slow in my case one is moving. Never imagined I’d be owning a 1/2” drive and a 1 1/4” socket .. playing with the big boy’s now! Ok getting back on track again yes cable was severed almost in half by the shift linkage and the cable support placement very obviously to see cause of damage. Mat.. thanks for reminding me to check gear compatibility I was wondering about that I don’t want to do this again. But you once stated something along the lines of: don’t plan a rebuild/restore project unless you pan on doing it twice!! man that is so true. I laugh when I tell folks I fix one thing but break two others. Can’t wait until it’s at least one to one. How tight should that nut be? I own a torque wrench now too you know! I’ll be sure cable is free moving and everything well greased. Peace

86 Bronco XLT “La Bronkita” Tow/light pkg. 302/EFI, BW1345

Gary Lewis

Re: Speedometer cable

Administrator

Happy to help. Glad it is coming together.

On the torque, I don't remember but I'm sure it is listed at the end of the factory service manual section on the page at Documentation/Driveline/Transfer Cases and then the BW1345 tab and the Ford Repair Procedures tab or the Borg-Warner's Service Manual tab.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

El Chapo

Re: Speedometer cable

Does 120-150 sound about right ? Thx

86 Bronco XLT “La Bronkita” Tow/light pkg. 302/EFI, BW1345

Gary Lewis

Re: Speedometer cable

Administrator

That's what the factory shop manual says.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

El Chapo

Re: Speedometer cable

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

The gear I received seems to have a level of play on the output shaft that the original one doesn’t have. Doesn’t feel firmly on the shaft but loose fitting and a bit of wiggle I think maybe once the knuckle is torqued back on it will be in place but, it’s a bit concerning to me should I be concerned and not install it?

86 Bronco XLT “La Bronkita” Tow/light pkg. 302/EFI, BW1345

Gary Lewis

Re: Speedometer cable

Administrator

The yoke will clamp it, but if it has too much play side to side then it may bind a bit with the driven gear. Can you post a video of how much play it has?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

El Chapo

Re: Speedometer cable

Ok I’ll try and get a video. I contacted the guy who makes these and tells me he purposely oversizes them because of ford making slightly different shaft sizes and that it should be fine.. but it’s obvious that this was hand made no judgment there but there are pits marks and the tubing used has a flat spot on the inside from one end to another.

86 Bronco XLT “La Bronkita” Tow/light pkg. 302/EFI, BW1345

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Speedometer cable

Administrator

Yeah, if the drive gear is sloppy on the output shaft, that doesn't sound good.
The drive gear needs to be concentric or it will cause/be damaged.

Sounds like another vendor to avoid, especially if they don't understand the basics of gear mesh.

There absolutely shouldn't be any variations in shaft size...
How would the internal gear or output yoke fit properly if the shaft was off?

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

El Chapo

Re: Speedometer cable

Yeah it just didn’t sit well with me. And you nailed it “concentric” a new word for me so I looked it up, and yes that’s it.. my concern. Concentric I’m feeling so smart right now. Thank you so very much!

86 Bronco XLT “La Bronkita” Tow/light pkg. 302/EFI, BW1345

El Chapo

Re: American hot rod solutions

Regarding the driven gear I received the vendor is stating a lack of quality control on behalf of Borg-Warner specifically output shafts. And current supply chain issue on the tubing available. But still claims this should not be a concern. I requested he just send me the plastic gear and I’ll attempt a replacement on my own sleeve. Looks like his was glued on? I asked what was used. We’ll see …this is getting really crazy now!

86 Bronco XLT “La Bronkita” Tow/light pkg. 302/EFI, BW1345

El Chapo

Re: American hot rod solutions

Or I can buy a legit one somewhere any ideas? At this point I’m knee deep in yogurt… so a reasonable price is irrelevant.

86 Bronco XLT “La Bronkita” Tow/light pkg. 302/EFI, BW1345

Gary Lewis

Re: American hot rod solutions

Administrator

In reply to this post by El Chapo

I've only rebuilt two transfer cases but in both of them the drive gear slid on tightly. So I do not believe the statement about BW quality control.

But I don't know how the gear was affixed to the tube. I assumed it was a press fit, but really don't know.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Gary Lewis

Re: American hot rod solutions

Administrator

In reply to this post by El Chapo

I would call Torque King. That's where I've bought my parts and they are very helpful.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ArdWrknTrk

Re: American hot rod solutions

Administrator

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

The tube is knurled and the gear is molded on.
At least that's how the originals were made.
I don't see any glue or press fit holding in a constant bath of hot ATF.
Let me see what I can hunt down....

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

ArdWrknTrk

Re: American hot rod solutions

Administrator

Can you accurately measure the tube of the drive gear you purchased? (Cheap digital caliper?)

This eBay listing has ID and OD in their full description, plus lists reasons for failure that seem to mirror your situation.

But is seems exactly the same as the LA Speedometer Gear one offered by American Hot Rod Solutions listed on Amazon.

I'm not sure what to make of that.... ? 🤔

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

El Chapo

Re: American hot rod solutions

Yes what’s the Amazon supplier. He doesn’t think sending me just the gear is a good idea for the various technical reasons he listed. And will refund my $. Thank you for sharing I did see the eBay post. Thx

86 Bronco XLT “La Bronkita” Tow/light pkg. 302/EFI, BW1345