Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

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Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Pete Whitstone
Hi all, I am tearing apart a 1995 F150 4x4 in order to convert my 81 to 4wd. I have the parts stripped off the 95 and sitting in my shop. I am in the process of tearing down the front half, it's pretty rusty but I think it will be serviceable after a good blasting. I have the front hubs disassembled and am at the point where the only 4 pieces left on each side are these:

Steering knuckle
Half shaft/U joint assembly
TTB arm
Wheel spindle

It seems that the key to disassembly from this point is to remove the wheel spindle. This will allow access to removing the half shafts and the upper and lower ball joints.

Problem is, the wheel spindle is stuck to the steering knuckle, but good. I have been soaking with PB blaster and trying to wedge a chisel in between the two for days. But no sign of it letting go anytime soon. I have also tried some heat. Nothing.

Anybody been down this road before and have any words of wisdom? Thanks!
81 F150 Flareside, Edelbrock Pro Flow4 FI, hydraulic roller 351W, E4OD, 4x4, BW1356
92 F150 RCLB 351W E40D BW1356 mostly stock
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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Yes, been there, done that, have the scars to prove it.

Start reading in Big Blue's Transformation here.  Make sure your read Bob's suggestion here.  And the upgrade.  And finally the success story here.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Pete Whitstone
Thanks Gary, I had not thought of constructing a puller, I will try that! I was trying to think of ways to involve the shop press, but I really don't see a good way there.
81 F150 Flareside, Edelbrock Pro Flow4 FI, hydraulic roller 351W, E4OD, 4x4, BW1356
92 F150 RCLB 351W E40D BW1356 mostly stock
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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

salans7
I didn't struggle nearly the way you two are/have on your spindles, even on my crusty Dana 60. But that's probably because the backside of both of my spindles were coated in anti-seize once I removed them. Not sure who did it, but I'm glad they did. When I put everything back together, I also lathered the contact surfaces in anti-seize, and I advise you do the same.
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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Yes, anti-seize now coats the back of Big Blue's spindles.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Nothing Special
Gary, I'm glad you could find where I wrote that up.  Saves me from doing it again!  It's not a fast way to go, and getting the hole in the plate to start with takes some doin'.  But it always seems to work.  And remember the key is to whack the standoffs with a hammer.  That's where the magic happens.  You don't need to try to pull it off with the wrench on the nut.  Get it tight, but don't go crazy.

And yes, anti-seize is your friend!  Try to clean it up pretty good with a file or wire wheel or something, then be generous with the anti-seize.  You'll be glad you did the next time it has to come apart.
Bob
Sorry, no '80 - '86 Ford trucks
"Oswald": 1997 F-250HD crew cab short box, 460, E4OD, 4.10 gears
"Pluto": 1971 Bronco, 302, NV3550 5 speed, Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case, 33" tires
"the motorhome": 2015 E-450-based 28' class C motorhome, 6.8L V-10
"the Dodge": 2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7L Cummins
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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Bob - I knew where it was, meaning in Big Blue's Transformation.  But that seems to have more than a page or two () and it took some searching.  But, the search function on this forum works amazingly well - if you find the right terms.

And yes, the magic is in the smacks with a mallet.  Then take up the slack with the nut and hit it again.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Sac79
You can get a loaner-tool. I think this was from Napa, not sure.

Rob

Eddy Myrtle '84 F150 300-6, Offenhauser C series intake, Edelbrock 1404(500cfm manual choke), EFI exhaust manifold, HEI dizzy, custom Painless harness, NP 435, NP 208, D44, 8.8"/3.08, 1.5" leveling coils, 265/75/16 tires.
Toyopet (Daily driver) '86 Toyota Pickup
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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Pete Whitstone
Interesting - that looks as though it is pushing against the stub axle? I think that would only work if everything is still installed on the vehicle. Since it is mostly torn down in my case, the halfshafts are just flopping around in there, but still trapped. I don't think this tool would have anything to push against.

Seems like installing the nut on the spindle threads and using a 3-jaw puller against that would accomplish the same thing, although with more chance of slippage.
81 F150 Flareside, Edelbrock Pro Flow4 FI, hydraulic roller 351W, E4OD, 4x4, BW1356
92 F150 RCLB 351W E40D BW1356 mostly stock
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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Sac79
Not sure why it's called a 'nut remover'... It threads directly on to the spindle on one side and a slide hammer on to the other end. Doesn't push on anything. If you get a hefty slide hammer with it, the job should be easy.
Rob

Eddy Myrtle '84 F150 300-6, Offenhauser C series intake, Edelbrock 1404(500cfm manual choke), EFI exhaust manifold, HEI dizzy, custom Painless harness, NP 435, NP 208, D44, 8.8"/3.08, 1.5" leveling coils, 265/75/16 tires.
Toyopet (Daily driver) '86 Toyota Pickup
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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Pete Whitstone
Ah ok, didn't realize it's a slide hammer, that makes a lot more sense.
81 F150 Flareside, Edelbrock Pro Flow4 FI, hydraulic roller 351W, E4OD, 4x4, BW1356
92 F150 RCLB 351W E40D BW1356 mostly stock
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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Pete Whitstone
In reply to this post by Pete Whitstone
Spent some time in the shop last night to work on this. First I constructed a cage that would interface the spindle nut with my slide hammer. 1/4 inch steel plate x 2, a 1 3/4" hole in one, and some 3/8" allthread.



My slide hammer is only about 3 lbs, and with as stuck as my hubs were, I did not hold out much hope. So I was not terribly disappointed when the hubs just laughed it off. Right then, time to get serious.

Next up, a 15" x 3" strip of quarter inch plate. Same 1 3/4" hole in the middle. Some more plate to stiffen lengthwise, and then a bridge across the stiffeners to make sure the hammer beatings were transferred across the length of the plate, rather than bending it at the weak spot in the middle where the spindle hole was.





As stated previously in this post, the sequence of tightening the standoffs, then whacking the back of the plate on both sides with a sledge, then tightening standoffs, repeat, was key to the whole thing. They were off in under 2 minutes apiece.



Since I plan to anti-seize the heck out of these when they go back in, that should be the last time I need these tools. If anyone needs to borrow them, just let me know.

Thanks to those on the forum that responded to this post, once again your great advice has been invaluable. Hope to see some of you in a couple weeks!
81 F150 Flareside, Edelbrock Pro Flow4 FI, hydraulic roller 351W, E4OD, 4x4, BW1356
92 F150 RCLB 351W E40D BW1356 mostly stock
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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Glad you got them off!  

Two weeks!?!?  You planning to make the show!?  If so, are you going to be here Friday night?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Pete Whitstone
I am hoping to make the show, yes, but probably only for Saturday. I will probably drive up Sat morning and hang out a while in the afternoon, then head to a friends place in Talahina for the night before heading back to DFW. Plans aren't 100% certain yet though.
81 F150 Flareside, Edelbrock Pro Flow4 FI, hydraulic roller 351W, E4OD, 4x4, BW1356
92 F150 RCLB 351W E40D BW1356 mostly stock
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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Sounds good, Pete!
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Nothing Special
In reply to this post by Pete Whitstone
For anyone trying to copy this, I think the reinforcing Pete did was overkill.  I used a 3/8" thick plate that was about 5" - 6" wide and didn't add any reinforcement.  It's been used on at least 6 really stuck spindles and isn't bending at all.  Remember that you really aren't tightening the spindle nut all THAT tight (you do tighten it quite a bit, I'm guessing I typically was going around 50-70 lb-ft?).  And you are hitting on the standoffs, so you aren't going to bend the plate with the hammer.

Still, anything worth killing is worth overkilling!  So I'm glad it worked for you!
Bob
Sorry, no '80 - '86 Ford trucks
"Oswald": 1997 F-250HD crew cab short box, 460, E4OD, 4.10 gears
"Pluto": 1971 Bronco, 302, NV3550 5 speed, Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case, 33" tires
"the motorhome": 2015 E-450-based 28' class C motorhome, 6.8L V-10
"the Dodge": 2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7L Cummins
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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Pete Whitstone
It might have been overkill, but those spindles were REALLLLLY stuck on there, so I didn't know what it was going to take. I am never one to under-engineer something.

Your approach was to whack the top of the standoffs, if I am reading you right. My approach was to make the plate long enough that the ends of it stuck out around the dust shields (which were gone in this case), and be able to whack the end of the plate on the back, instead of the standoff. That's why I reinforced it the way I did, because I DID plan to be whacking the plate with the hammer.

In any event, it worked out well and I appreciate the idea!
81 F150 Flareside, Edelbrock Pro Flow4 FI, hydraulic roller 351W, E4OD, 4x4, BW1356
92 F150 RCLB 351W E40D BW1356 mostly stock
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Re: Separating steering knuckle from wheel spindle 4x4

Nothing Special
Yeah, I whacked the front side of the plate, right opposite each standoff.  The plate still needs to be stout, both for the torque you put on the nut and the hammering.  But as I said, my 3/8" plate is holding up.  Your's is another way to skin the cat (a rather gruesome saying if you think about it).


The first spindles I took off with that puller were on my '85 F-250HD, and the spindles were the second major fight I had in that project.  The spindle nuts wouldn't move either.  I had a long breaker bar on the spindle nut socket but couldn't put enough torque on it to move it.  The dogs on the spindle nut socket kept popping out of the slots on the nut.  So I bolted a loop of chain to opposite lug studs and put a 2x4 under the chain, across the top of the breaker bar.  With the chain about an inch one one side of the spindle centerline and my pushing in on the other end of the 2x4, about a foot and a half on the other side of centerline I had about an 18:1 advantage trying to keep the socket from popping out of the nut slots.  So it didn't pop off any more, but I still couldn't budge the nut.  So I put a hydraulic bottle jack under the end of the breaker bar!  That broke them loose!
Bob
Sorry, no '80 - '86 Ford trucks
"Oswald": 1997 F-250HD crew cab short box, 460, E4OD, 4.10 gears
"Pluto": 1971 Bronco, 302, NV3550 5 speed, Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case, 33" tires
"the motorhome": 2015 E-450-based 28' class C motorhome, 6.8L V-10
"the Dodge": 2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7L Cummins