Seat Belt Removal

Anyone have any tips or tricks on removing the lower seat belt bolts without using a torch?  I'm planning on starting to soak them with penetrating lube, but I'm not sure that will be enough.  They are pretty well seized in the body.  I need to replace them because mine don't lock anymore and I'd like to have belts that actually work.

In my experience the floor pan soaks up a bunch of the torque from an impact, but an impact is more effective on stuck bolts than straight leverage.  So I'd try them both ways - impact and breakover with a cheater.  And I'd try to both tighten and then loosen, tighten and then loosen.

I tried the tighten and loosen with an impact.  The problem with the impact side of things is that it is a torx bit and I snapped it.  Knowing full well it was probably going to happen, but had to try anyway.

You must either have weak bits or a really strong impact.  

I would be tempted to use my torch with MAPP gas and a small flame.  Heat it and quench it with PB Blaster or similar.  Heat and quench.  I don't think you will get the belt too hot, but then I wouldn't be heating it terribly hot nor for long before I hit it with PB Blaster.

I might still try that.  More worried about damaging the paint than messing with the bolt.  

As for the impact, I had used a cheater bar on it already and was using a 1/2" drive impact that can do 150ft/lbs plus.  Can't recall which brand bit it was, but it wasn't impacted rated either.

150 ft-lbs isn't all that much.  My "big" impact is Harbor Freight's pneumatic Earthquake and it is good for about 1000 if I remember correctly.

So I'm surprised that your torx bit broke with your impact.

Yeah. I say at least because I've never actually checked out against a torque wrench.  Either way, it wasn't an impact but so I'm not surprised.

Found a TP55 impact on Amazon I'll get ordered to try next.

I drilled the bolt hollow from the bottom and used a big flathead to loosen after I cut a notch on top, there wasn't enough clearance for anything else. This is after stripping the head, multiple soakings with penetrating oil, torch, hammering a torx socket into the head, yelling at it, braising on a socket, therapy, and channel locks.

I have thought about this too and may end up doing it that way.  I need to pull out the centering tool I have for doing it and see if I have one big enough for that size bolt.  I think do.  

tcbaklash wrote

I drilled the bolt hollow from the bottom and used a big flathead to loosen after I cut a notch on top, there wasn't enough clearance for anything else. This is after stripping the head, multiple soakings with penetrating oil, torch, hammering a torx socket into the head, yelling at it, braising on a socket, therapy, and channel locks.

I feel your pain...  

fords4life wrote

I have thought about this too and may end up doing it that way.  I need to pull out the centering tool I have for doing it and see if I have one big enough for that size bolt.  I think do.

I just used a center punch and lots of concentration. I didn't nick any threads but I had to chase debris out with a tap

Patience, Patience and more Patience. Soak um, Soak um and Soak um. Bump ‘‘em to the right and Bump ‘‘em to the left, Soak um, Soak um and Soak um. Go do something else. Wire brush any threads underneath that are exposed and Soak um. You can do more damage when running a 100 mph than at 10 mph. Patience. Good Luck, CJ

I have used rust remover first on the threads and try to get in tight to the bolt retainer/ bolt. I then use a portable soldering iron that is powered by butane to heat the retainer or floor board/nut. Call it what you want.
Just enough to expand it from the bolt and soak it with penetrating oil. I make my own penetrating fluid, one part transmission fluid, one part varsol and the remaining part wd40.
Does anyone remember the penetrating oil sold many years ago, once you sprayed it would start smoking?
It is not a one day thing, could take several days.

dionden wrote

I have used rust remover first on the threads and try to get in tight to the bolt retainer/ bolt. I then use a portable soldering iron that is powered by butane to heat the retainer or floor board/nut. Call it what you want.
Just enough to expand it from the bolt and soak it with penetrating oil. I make my own penetrating fluid, one part transmission fluid, one part varsol and the remaining part wd40.
Does anyone remember the penetrating oil sold many years ago, once you sprayed it would start smoking?
It is not a one day thing, could take several days.

Good call on the rust remover.  I have some and will try to get started on it this weekend.  Also have an impact rated torx bit coming in the next day or two.  The journey begins.