Removing brushguard welded to frame

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Removing brushguard welded to frame

Kevin
Although some may like the brushguard below, I am in interested in returning my truck to a more stock look.



Unfortunately, this thing has been welded directly to the frame.





My thought is to use an angle grinder to cut and grind preserving as much of the integrity of the frame as I can.   Does anyone have concerns about that approach?   Any recommendations?
1985 F-150 351W 4SPD
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

PetesPonies
This is easy. You can use an angle grinder, but put a cut off wheel in it. 4", 1/16" thick. This is a very common size. Then cut through the weld. You can probably get 90% or more cut, then a BFH will remove the guard completely. Then use a grinding wheel in the angle grinder to clean it up. Once you get close, switch to a flap disc in the angle grinder and make it pretty. I do stuff like this a lot . .this is an easy one :)
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance

1982 F100 Flareside
1983 Bronco

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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by Kevin
100% on the cutoff disc.
4 1/2" with a depressed center.
Don't even screw around with the flat ones.
You'll need to install the retaining nut upside down on the grinder shaft  in order to grab an .045 or .065 disc.

Take off the guard and wear hand and face protection.
Do not put your face in the same plane as the cut.
Keep the disc square in the cut, and if you feel it binding pull the tool back towards you.

Support the brush guard somehow.
Maybe open the hood and use a ratcheting tie down.

If you're not looking to make the underside a showpiece just take a 60 grit flap wheel and smooth any sharp edges left behind.

Offer that thing on CL or something!
It looks great for around the farm or ranch.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by Kevin
Do you have a bumper and brackets lined up?
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

Rembrant
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
ArdWrknTrk wrote
100% on the cutoff disc.
4 1/2" with a depressed center.
Don't even screw around with the flat ones.
Ha! All I buy are the flat ones. I can't stand the ones with the depressed center. I use 5" x 3/64" with 7/8" hole. I use zip cut disks so often I'd be lost without them. When you live in the land of rust, you become a real craftsman with an angle grinder and a zip cut disk...lol. While everybody is off discussing the best penetrating oil and trying to figure out what socket to use on a rusted hex head, I've already cut it off and hammered it out...lol.

My tip for using zip cuts is to not put too much pressure on them. You barely need more than the weight of the angle grinder to make a cut. If you press on them too much you'll eat through the disks too fast.

In any case, Pete is 100% on the removal imho. Personally, I probably wouldn't even try to salvage it. If chopping parts of the bumper off make it easier to get to the welds on the frame, then that's what I'd do.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/GT40 heads, BBK headers, Holley 4bbl, XE256H Comp Cam, M5R2 5spd swap, Magnaflow full duals. Fresh Medium Blue Metallic in August 2019.
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
To each his own, I guess.
I'm usually trying to cut off flush with some other surface.
Anything that gets the arbor nut out of the way is my friend. 😉

Zip disc, Wizz wheel, whatever.
What brands are worth buying, and for what?
I like Makita's stainless steel discs.
Diablo is ok, DeWalt not so much.
Pearl is my favorite for abrasive and diamond wheels
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Even looks pretty easy to get to from the side with a Sawzall.

Probably just as fast ( in this case) and a lot less sparks & dust flying around.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

Rembrant
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
ArdWrknTrk wrote
To each his own, I guess.

What brands are worth buying, and for what?
Well, we all get used to using different things don't we?...lol. Even after 20 years of being married, my wife and I still disagree on what route to take to get somewhere...lol.

I've been using Walter disks for years on everything. Same for grinding and flap wheels. It's just what all the industrial shops stock around here I guess.

https://www.walter.com/en_CA/products/abrasives/cutting/zipcut

I need a new angle grinder. I've been using a Bosch grinder for 20 years now, and it wasn't new when I got it. The angle drive is noisy and the lock pin is just about useless. Trying to wait until Christmas to replace it.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/GT40 heads, BBK headers, Holley 4bbl, XE256H Comp Cam, M5R2 5spd swap, Magnaflow full duals. Fresh Medium Blue Metallic in August 2019.
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

Steve83
In reply to this post by Rembrant
I agree: cut the BUMPER material - don't try to get the welds; you'll just go into the frame.  I've done several of these, including a full welding/work bed on an F350 dually (which required a crane to lift off), some old bumper tabs on my '76 Bronco frame, and some gargantuan receivers on a '74 Bronco recently.  This & the NEXT several show the '76 frame:



This shows the '74:



These are the wheels I prefer, and yes: they fit all my 4.5" angle grinders with their shields on:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ASDTJ0
Walk softly and carry a BIG SIX!!!
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742#album
Memphis, TN, USA, Earth, Milky Way
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
In reply to this post by Rembrant
Cory, I've never used a Walter disc.
Must be a Canadian thing?

I only have one 4 1/2" grinder with a guard on.
Can't stand the things, but sometimes necessary.

What brands are you looking at, and what features?
Paddle or top switch?
Locking or not?
Rear handle?

Right now I have two top switch Hitachi's, one Metabo (which is now Hitachi) and two paddle trigger DeWalt's.

For other grinding tasks I have 7" Makita & Bosch, and three 5" Makita paint grinders.

I try to keep them away from tilebacker, masonry and stone.
Have a dedicated throwaway HF grinder for things like cutting out mortar joints.
Can't seem to kill it


 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

Rembrant
ArdWrknTrk wrote
Cory, I've never used a Walter disc.
Must be a Canadian thing?

What brands are you looking at, and what features?
Paddle or top switch?
Locking or not?
Rear handle?
Considering how well my existing Bosch grinder has lasted, I may just buy another one for familiarity sake. I wouldn't have believed it, but Bosch actually still makes the exact same unit. It's short and light which makes it easy to hold with one hand, and has a thumb trigger that locks.

The one I currently have was dropped out of a scissor lift 20 years ago. The case on it was cracked so the boss cut the cord and chucked it in the garbage. I dug it out of the garbage and bought a new case cover and cord for it. That would have been in the late 1990's, and I still use the thing on a weekly basis.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/GT40 heads, BBK headers, Holley 4bbl, XE256H Comp Cam, M5R2 5spd swap, Magnaflow full duals. Fresh Medium Blue Metallic in August 2019.
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

PetesPonies
I use all flat cut off discs. Flipping the nut is easy and I have been doing it professionally for more years than I can attest to. No problem what so ever.
Pete's Ponies
Mustang RUSToration & Performance

1982 F100 Flareside
1983 Bronco

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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

Kevin
Thanks, everyone, for all the input!  I completed cutting the brush guard off today and managed to work around it without cutting it to pieces.  Here is the after shot.   I need to work on grinding down the remaining weld.



Jim asked about the new bumper.   I like the original chrome bumpers.   I picked a nice straight one off this rig last weekend in the Navajo Nation. (The truck is already an adventure.)





Jim, not sure about brackets (?).    I do need fasteners.   I think there is reference material here on the forum.   Where is the best place to buy?
1985 F-150 351W 4SPD
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

Rembrant
That short box would be worth some money if it is a straight  as it looks.

I bought new bumper bolts from LMC if that is what you’re referring to about the fasteners?
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/GT40 heads, BBK headers, Holley 4bbl, XE256H Comp Cam, M5R2 5spd swap, Magnaflow full duals. Fresh Medium Blue Metallic in August 2019.
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

Gary Lewis
Administrator
In reply to this post by Kevin
The reference material is at Documentation/Exterior/Bumpers.  And, as you can see in the illustration there, all you need are the bolts.  The front bumper bolts directly to the frame.

And it looks like you did a good job of cutting the brush guard off.  Won't take much to clean that up.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker in front & 10.25 Spicer/Trutrac in back, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
. I can't tell you how many times I have to step back because I think of my Bricknose while here on this forum....

When I replaced mine I had a devil of a time getting some of those chrome capped bolts out, so I just got some stainless carriage bolts at the hardware and buffed them on a bench grinder.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

salans7
When I pulled the bumper from my 86, I found that the square portion of the carriage bolt was half the size of the holes in the bumper, so all of the carriage bolts just spun when I put a ratchet on the nuts. I'm assuming they were hardware store versions because they looked much smaller than what I remember having on my F150. Had to cut all of them off in order to get the bumper off.

Unless you can find the correct size carriage bolts locally, I would grab the ones from LMC.
-Shaun
1980/86/90 Ford F350 4x4 351W/NP435/Sterling
2003 Ford Ranger V6/M5OD/8.8--Detroit True-Trac L/S, Hurst Short Throw, 4" Suspension, 3" Body Lift, Mustang Cobra Rear Disc Swap, and a few other mods....
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

ArdWrknTrk
Administrator
Yes the Ford bolts have some weird size square. But I have a MIG welder and a square file for a broach.

Just glomming up two cornees of the hole is enough.
 Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

salans7
The ones on my bumper are more like a rectangle than a square.
-Shaun
1980/86/90 Ford F350 4x4 351W/NP435/Sterling
2003 Ford Ranger V6/M5OD/8.8--Detroit True-Trac L/S, Hurst Short Throw, 4" Suspension, 3" Body Lift, Mustang Cobra Rear Disc Swap, and a few other mods....
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Re: Removing brushguard welded to frame

Kevin
I had the same issue as described with the bolts when pulling off the 86 bumper.  I managed to get the bolts loose but then they would just turn.   I used pliers to get a bite on one of the chrome caps to get that bolt out, but of course it marked up that cap big time.   For the other three, I had to cut them.   It seems if I had a thin open-ended wrench (the kind of thing that might come with new furniture that needs to be assembled) I could have grabbed that square portion of the bolt from in front of the bumper.   Anyway, hence the need for new bolts (fasteners).  I will check out LMC.  
1985 F-150 351W 4SPD
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