Rear Window Gasket

Hey friends, I removed my rear glass recently and purchased a new gasket from NPD for the re-install. I have a non-slider with chrome piece that you press into the gasket. I ordered my gasket and the chrome from NPD: https://www.npdlink.com/product/weatherstrip-rear-window-glass/133323/60783

I removed the gasket from the packaging with intentions of putting it on the window with hopeful install tonight. As our rear glass is somewhat wider on the bottom and narrower on the top, I expected the gasket to have that same basic shape, but it is not as obvious with the new gasket. Maybe that's just the way it is and will conform to the shape when installed. However, I'm not real sure what is top and bottom and I know this matters. There is a single molded change in the glass channel (see photo) that I'm certain is center and think it may go on the bottom. Can anyone confirm?



Also, does the chrome strip go in the gasket before installation or after?  

the chrome is a plastic chrome rope like piece correct?

You have to put the rubber around the glass and bed it in the truck first then you fit the chrome rope in and that is what locks the gasket in the truck.

If you have an actual hard metal trim piece which I dont recall seeing this era of trucks having you would have to in most cases install the hard trim into the rubber first then install the window/gasket/trim into the truck as a large assembly and would have to use a rope to pull the gasket into place.

On the joiner I dont know about that, the Ford truck I did do we just simply put it in the middle of the truck I believe on the bottom of the glass.

I too purchased my window strip from NPD since they're local to me. I installed it with the "joint" in the middle and at the bottom.

As for the fitment, it seems to work, but it is far from a factory fit. Mine left noticeable gaps in the lower corners that the factory gasket had originally filled. If you run into the same issue as I did, you'll know what I'm referring to.

I would entertain the idea of having a glass shop put it in.
Not at all saying that because it's a difficult install - takes some time but isn't bad.
I am saying that because mine (gasket from Dennis Carpenter) leaked a little in the bottom corners. Called a glass shop and they knew exactly why and knew where to add a dab of sealant. This was with a new CRL slider so not apples to apples but still something I'd think about.
Mine had obvious corners in it so if yours doesn't, placing that seam bottom center sounds like as good a starting place to dry fit as any.

Given the cold weather that would be another reason I'd check into a shop.

As has already been said - lock strip goes in last. There was a thread recently with some better alternatives to the soap and water mix.

Thanks for the responses, fellas. After I posted last night, I did some more web surfing regarding the company that provided the gasket. I bought the gasket through NPD and it was the only one they had with the chrome insert. It was also the cheapest, which made me a little nervous. Regardless, the company appears to be reputable and hosts a bunch of videos and information on tips and tools for glass replacement. Their website: https://www.prp.com/

Unfortunately, nothing on our Bullnose Fords. I was able to glean the proper location of the gasket though. And, I sent them an email asking if the chrome insert went in before or after installation. I question that it should go in after because I could have ordered a gasket that does not have the insert for the chrome, so I'm thinking it is merely decorative and not of purpose in securing the glass. Also, I came across the following video and while it is not a back window on an F150, the fit up and the trim are essentially the same thing.    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MT8yYxkOZ2c

As always, thanks for you input. I'll keep you guys posted this endeavor.    

I'm following this as Big Blue's insert is crumbling but the gasket is fine.  So I'm wondering if I can just replace the insert.

Hey John,
Overall I've been happy with the Precision stuff I've used. The only ones I tossed and went with another offering was the vent window gaskets.

Haven't watched the video but general consensus is that the chrome rope on our trucks goes in after the window is in to lock it in place. Since ultimately the profiles are the same and it's coming in from the back it stands to reason that it could be done(?). With the chrome strip in though, it's going to be less flexible overall but since you are just folding the inside lip of the gasket maybe it won't have much of an impact?

This graphic is from the CRL slider install doc and just adding it for the profile view. Worth noting the CRL slider is treated like a factory non-slider install so that's why it shows the wider channel used by the factory slider as incorrect.



Gary - yes you could pull the lock strip out and replace it. When removing mine by just pulling it, it kept snapping into little pieces so if pulling a brittle one again I'd grab a wedge trim tool (which is what I used to install the new one also) and work it under as you pull so you aren't having to stop and start a bunch.

Good to know, Scott.  Thanks!  That tip will help - when I get to that point.  (Boy, do I have a LOT to do on this truck!)

Thank you, Scott. Did you apply the chrome strip after the install on your truck? If so, how difficult and what tools needed?

When I had my truck repainted 6-7 years ago, the guy that painted it installed a new gasket and I watched him do it. He had that window in and completed out in a snap. He used no sealant and the gasket fit nicely and never leaked. I helped him from the bed side and for the life of me, I can't remember the dang chrome piece install.

I did - after reading and getting some advice from here and on FTE.
I only used the yellow trim tools from HF. They worked well although I haven't used the tool from Lisle to compare. It wasn't terrible but wore my fingers out since you have to push really hard.

The sealant may have only been needed due to the aftermarket CLR. It comes with hard corner extensions but I am guessing they aren't quite enough.

Is that painter still around?

Got a response from prp....."Gasket goes on the body, then put the glass in the gasket, then the chrome lockstrip goes in the gasket. Please let me know if you have any other questions".

Unless I'm misreading the response, I'm not even sure how to respond to that without coming across as insulting.

Scott, the painter is still around but fully retired. I contacted him some time back for some work but he wanted nothing of it, mostly due to health. He's also not very savvy with a phone in so much as pictures, texting, and stuff. I may try to call him, as I thought about him in this.  

Who, or what, is prp... in this context?

No, I don't think they have a clue.

My CRL slider seemed to seal well enough without added sealant.
But I can understand "insurance"

Interesting! Looking at the profile of the gaskets, I guess maybe it is a six/half- dozen situation as far as if you use the rope to install the gasket on the body vs the glass?
Possibly even easier on the lock strip version since it has the gap for 'give'.

Hadn't ever thought of that direction.

Glad to hear yours sealed well Jim. Really happy with the slider itself.

John, Im not here to beat anybody about anything. In my humble oppinion it is plain simpler to put the gasket on the window, then take some parashut cord or some 12 ga wire and cover it in dish soap or some silicone spray lube and put the cord in the body groove of the gasket then set the gasket over the body from the inside. Have some one lightly push down and out as you slowly pull the cord from the outside. The cord will pull the gasket out and over the cab edge as you go around the the gasket. Window installed with gasket takes about 20 minutes.

Then lube up the locking strip and feed it in. Start in the bottom center.

I put windshelds in semi trucks like this all of the time, the ones that dont glue in with the urathaine

Gary Lewis wrote

I'm following this as Big Blue's insert is crumbling but the gasket is fine.  So I'm wondering if I can just replace the insert.

Same here, I believe you can pull the insert out and replace it with another.  I how ever want to pull my back window out when the body work is done so any rust behind the rubber can be fixed and everything can be painted.  I hope to save my rubber so I can reuse it and just install a new lock insert.  I also have to find the gaskets for the sliding glass itself as mine are aged and Id like to replace them.  There was a set on ebay NOS last year but I didnt grab them and the guy never relisted them.

I don't know how anyone could put the gasket on the body flange and then get the window into the gasket.

Ii try to avoid soap because it attracts water by capillary action, and silicone because of contamination if I ever want to paint.

Gojo has lanolin, works really well, wipes off and is always around the shop.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I don't know how anyone could put the gasket on the body flange and then get the window into the gasket.

I was thinking the same thing Jim.

You can do it, Gary. I have installed three which I purchased from LMC.

kramttocs wrote

I only used the yellow trim tools from HF. They worked well although I haven't used the tool from Lisle to compare. It wasn't terrible but wore my fingers out since you have to push really hard.
Is that painter still around?

Scott, what is this Lisle tool you speak of in the above quote?