Questions regarding duraspark conversion

David - I'm not so sure it is just a V8 issue on the kick-back.  You had yours kicking back before we started working on it - right?  But, it certainly is an issue of higher-compression issues with lots of initial lead.

And, the push-button idea would probably work well - get the flywheel turning and hit it with spark.

As for the carb, that one gives excellent MPG.  That's what I'd get.  

<quote author="1986F150Six">

Ford F834 wrote

On the advice of the straight six guru Frenchtown Flyer he bought a Carter YF carburetor for a 1970 F350. That age and GVWR meant that it was calibrated for a NON- EGR application. If you have deleted your smog pump this is the carb to order.
/quote>

Carter YF 4901 S

David, can you tell us again where you suggested to buy a rebuild carburetor that tests for shaft play and actually delivers a quality unit? I looked through our emails but I’m not finding the place you mentioned...

             Would anyone happen to know if anything else would need replacing during the conversion? Would I need to change the intake, or exhaust manifold to a earlier year, or would a 70's carter non feedback bolt right on? Also, this is just a question, but is stopping the egr as simple as removing the EGR valve, and covering it, or is there also additional steps?
   
                            Thank you!

Putting a non feedback carb on  is what you need. Your intake doe snot have to be changed. As for the EGR, I would not remove it.

  I'm keeping my fingers crossed that when I go to the salvage yard, I'll get lucky, and get everything I want. I'm more geared towards the duraspark conversion. Does anyone know if there's any indicators that would determine whether or not the control unit has the retard function? As for things like the egr, and smog pump, I'm only curious as to how the process is done, and what the outcome has been for those who've been around that setup.

Removing the EGR and the A.I.R. systems is a debatable topic.  The A.I.R. system, aka smog pump, doesn't really use enough power to cause problems, but it is controlled by the computer through the TAB and TAD relays, as shown here, so if you are removing the computer it won't work and might as well be removed.  And, you can remove those relays as well.

On the EGR, while it may actually be helpful in some ways, it is also controlled by the computer via the EGR On/Off Solenoid, also shown on that link.  So the EGR isn't going to be coming on either, and can be removed or just blocked off.  And, it can usually be blocked with a thin metal ship placed between the EGR valve and the manifold.  I've used a soft drink can's metal for that.

But, if I remember correctly there's also a non-EGR spacer that goes below the carb.  Jonathan/FordF834 is the guru on that, having hunted and found one, so perhaps he will chime in? However, I think there were others involved in that quest?

As for the DS-II module, I used to think that all Motorcraft ones had the retard feature, but the one on Big Blue that doesn't have it, or at least it doesn't work, is labeled Motorcraft.  So, I can't tell you for sure.  But, I've also heard that NAPA Gold units have it.

The non-EGR carb spacer is a tough item to find, and was mostly (if not exclusively?) a Canadian thing. It has a little “tongue” that covers the EGR hole on the intake manifold.


An older non-EGR intake manifold can be used, but the stud spacing is closer together. If you want to run a Carter YF series carburetor on it you will have to oval out the holes in the aluminum base plate with a rat tail file. The carb sits directly on the intake manifold (no spacer) on those years:


By far, the vast majority of EGR deletes out there involve some kind of block-off of the EGR port in the intake and/or spacer. You can plug the hole in the intake with an Allen head pipe plug, or cut a thin metal gasket that covers the hole as Gary suggested. However, with this method you still need to leave the pipe from the exhaust and the valve in place or else the spacer will have a huge vacuum leak. On my truck, the previous owner put a pipe plugs in the exhaust manifold and EGR spacer, and fabricated an aluminum block off plate to bolt on in place of the EGR valve:

Here is a better picture of the esoteric non-EGR spacer... thank you so much David 1986F150Six for finding it and working the deal with the guy who had it!



My current block off works fine, by the way, this will just help it to look like a non-EGR truck the way they came from Ford. The only piece I still lack is a non-EGR alternator bracket without the mount for the smog pump. That is nit-picking... mine will probably just get hack-sawed to clean it up the last little bit.

I also have the 300 6 (1984) It had the TFI EEC-IV set up. It has been partially changed and gearing up to change the rest. So on the EGR spacer under the carb I just had it cut down and the EGR hols welded. I have a remand non feedback carter carb but its still running on the EEC-IV coil and distributor for now but I have the parts to change it over fully hopefully soon. So what I did I just got the Painless 30812 ignition harness which is the most expensiveness thing at 100.00. an Amazon. Just watch and make sure its not the one for a Jeep (most places had the Ford for 150.00 and Jeep for 100.00) but Amazon was running the Fords for 100.00). I went that route because I was scared of how old the junk yard wiring would be and a lot of my wiring was brittle that was on and around the engine but you might get lucky and find a good one at the junk yard.
I also got a oil filled round coil with the pins on top to accept the horse shoe connector. I found a single wire for the distributor to coil being I already have new plug wires on it.




Also the carb. I got only has a electric choke assist so I bought a Dorman choke stove tube kit 5511 the I plan on getting on soon. So with the painless it comes with a ballast resistor but not the wires to the ignition switch, but I have red that even on the EEC wiring the resistor wire is still there just not hooked up. So would we need this on a stock 300 and if so where would you tie it in on the Painless diagram?

Carter YF 4901 S


David, can you tell us again where you suggested to buy a rebuild carburetor that tests for shaft play and actually delivers a quality unit? I looked through our emails but I’m not finding the place you mentioned...


Rockauto; the Autoline carburetors. They are remanufactured in Canada and mine came with new bushings.

Ok, I got a response from Tim Meyer and he says he can do a one-wire dizzy for the 300 six.  Not that anyone right here is planning to buy one, but he'd like a good pic of a DS-II dizzy for the 300.  Anyone have a good pic they want to submit?

   Mr.Ford F834,


   Do you remember the size of the plug used on the exhaust manifold?

       Also, thank you all for the pictures posted, and your contributions to the thread.

  If I found a F series truck in the junkyard prior to the EGR being added, would the non egr spacer work from it? The junk yard I pay tribute to is quite massive in size, over 100+ acres, so I feel like I might have a better shot than others.

Gary Lewis wrote

Ok, I got a response from Tim Meyer and he says he can do a one-wire dizzy for the 300 six.  Not that anyone right here is planning to buy one, but he'd like a good pic of a DS-II dizzy for the 300.  Anyone have a good pic they want to submit?

 Here is a link to a NOS one on eBay with multiple photos from different angles:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Motorcraft-DA-1925-Distributor-1983-4-9L-300-I6-ONLY-Ford-E3UZ-12127-G/182341717137?hash=item2a7469cc91:g:24cAAOSw4GVYG14G:rk:3:pf:0

To add to this thread on blocking the EGR port I did it in the intake using a freeze plug and left the EGR plate & valve in place. This way if anyone wants to look if in place it is (less vacuum hose).


I am running EFI exh manifolds and used a pipe plug screwed into the hole left when I removed the tube.

Mine is an 81 F100 w/300 six so non-feed back system to start with.
Dave ----

eternaltruck wrote

Mr.Ford F834,
Do you remember the size of the plug used on the exhaust manifold?

I will see if I can measure it. Mine was done by the previous owner, and the one I plugged before that was about 22 years ago on my ‘66 truck build and my memory isn’t ~that good 🤪

Regarding the non-EGR spacer, just be sure to measure the distance between studs for the carb. Usually if you go old enough to not have EGR, it will be the closer together studs and no spacer. The wider spacing for the carter YFA carb kind of went hand in hand with the introduction of EGR, so only a few applications got the special spacer to block off the hole. You might get lucky, but it isn’t that hard to work around if you don’t.

https://www.amazon.com/KIPA-Carburetor-Cylinder-1975-1982-D5TZ9510AG/dp/B076BWL7T9/ref=asc_df_B076BWL7T9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241994092016&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1862179647718690087&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023282&hvtargid=pla-466719355908&psc=1

will this carb work with deleting smog pump from late 85/ early 86?

Kyle - Do you know anything about that carb?  Did you buy one?

I ask because it is hard to believe it could cover all the years and applications properly.  Supposedly it works on a 240 to a 300 w/o rejetting?  One reviewer said it worked well on his 240, but another said it had a "funny spot" when accelerating, which would probably indicate it is lean then.  And that would be expected if it was right for a 240 and used on a 300.

But, I'm intrigued by the statement at the bottom:

Notice:
The oil channels of carburetors will be blocked without cleaning.
Please clean up the oil channels and air filters as well as use the clean fuel before installing the carburetors.

medic507 wrote

will this carb work with deleting smog pump from late 85/ early 86?

The carb itself does not really have anything to do with the EGR system. *Except calibration. That is why David ordered one for a 1970 F350. Because that year and gvwr was exempt from the emissions requirement of having EGR and the carb would have been tuned accordingly. I would agree with Gary that since they claim this carb is for 240,250,300 CID engines from ‘75-‘82 that the calibration is generic at best. It will fit and work, but it may not give you optimal performance. I’ve run some Carter YF’s from 300’s on my 240 when I had it and had no issues. I’ve run a few junkyard take-off’s on my 300 and it does okay but it would probably do better if I had a properly rebuilt and calibrated unit. It might be a few bucks more, but I’d look into the company that David suggested through rock auto. Most “rebuilt” carbs are actually worn out and the chem clean and carb kit that they put in doesn’t cut it. The Autoline place David got his from rebushes the shafts and brings it back into spec.