PCV system

Greetings from the west coast Garsgemahler's I feel as though I'm  having a bit of a performance issue after changing out my PCV valve.
Jim you may remember I asked if you could look at a video for me that I took of my engine because I was hearing a weird noise, The file was too large to send conventionally, and couldn't figure out another way. Good news is I found what I was hearing .There's a hose on the bottom front of the carburetor that goes to the back of the engine to the PCV valve. It sat in a rubber grommet that did a half turn to lock into the valve cover kind of like an oil fill cap. In that worn out grommet sits the PCV valve, and that was the noise I was hearing. The said they didn't have what I originally had so what they gave me was a breather with a hole in the middle of it in the top that a PCV valve sits in. The PCV valve has two ports and came with the plug so I could plug one of the ports It fit really tight which was great I put the PCV valve in hooked up my hose to one port and plugged the other port now what I'm experiencing is what feels like sluggish performance less horsepower less get up and go. Any ideas
Thank you in advance.

Hi Mike!
How was your trip to the Olympic peninsula?

Yeah, I wondered where that video was.
You can put it up on YouTube or Vimeo and link it here.

I can't believe you cannot find a PCV grommet.  

So, where is your filtered air crankcase vent now?
Because you can't just draw through the vent cap.
You are not evacuating the crankcase, pressure will build up.
That's going to cause leaks and acidic condensation in your oil.

I forget which valve covers you have.
I know it took some searching to find a correct one for my OMC cast ones.

Thank you for the reply, as always the Olympic Peninsula is spectacular. I love to visit there.
So there's two hoses for venting one is on the PCV valve which runs to a port on the bottom front of the carb, the other is hooked into the oil fill tube, and is attached to the underside of the aftermarket air cleaner. In addition the oilfill tube cap is vented to atmosphere. I'm attaching some pictures of what I had vs what I was given.
I'll also picture the hose that I can't seem to keep in the bottom side of the air cleaner, it keeps popping out making a mess of my intake, and for the life of me I can't get the A/C "quick connect" seperated. I was fighting this for about 45 minutes before giving up. Any tips? I've got the disconnect tool, and inserted completely...

I'd seriously be tempted to abandon the air filter connection and use a simple vented cap at the oil fill.

Is the chrome cap where you have your PCV valve otherwise sealed to the valve cover?
Or does it have vents on the underside?

Are you certain the garter spring is retracting with the tool?

You might try some light oil spray (like WD-40) and working the tool round and round or back and forth to see if you can free the connection up.

When you say the RV is sluggish is it just a general malaise, or it won't go if you give it full throttle, or it won't pull hard on top, or...

Please try to be as pointed and succinct as you can.
Whatever detail or nuance you offer makes it easier for one of us to💡

Thank you Jim . Yes I shot a little PB Blaster  in the connection a two days ago. I believe the spring was retracted, because when the tool was in place the spring appeared closer to the edge of the fitting like it was heading out of there it had been previously.
As far as thej performance I would just go with general malaise, less pep off the stoplight, seems longer to get up to speed, seems as though I have to have my foot in the throttle more than before.
Not sure if this is related, but just noticed that the engine gets a little hot ( far top end of the guage still in the normal zone but almost to the H) when cruising above 55-60 mph. All components of the cooling system are new, and the system has Been flushed twice recently.

Another thing about the PCV system before I deleted the emissions system this little Chingadera lived in line with the PCV

Right.  That's the hot idle compensator in the PCV line.
It is supposed to bring the idle up if the engine starts to get too warm.

I don't know what to say about the AC line except I try to reserve that PB stuff for rusty bolts and would avoid using it on anything with paint or a seal.
Perhaps someone else has better advice for you?

Just to let y'all know, I'm following along but don't have much to contribute.  And especially so on the A/C connection.  I have very little experience with those connections, but do know when they don't want to come apart they can be a pain.

On the cooling, I'd be wondering just how warm the engine actually is.  The gauges are notorious for being vague, so I'd at least check with an IR thermometer to find out if it really is getting warm.

But the gauges are normally very repeatable. (unless the ICVR goes out)
And I've never seen a sender fail closed.

It would be interesting to see what sort of temps he is really getting with the gauge at the top of its scale.

Very true.  But running towards the high end of the scale may be well within the range of temps we would expect.  However, that doesn't explain why it seems to be higher lately.  Maybe outside air temps are up?

Just made it back to my RV storage. So to answer you question Jim the Breather is sealed to the valve cover with no vents on the underside, it's only venting from the PCV valve.
As far as the oil filler deal, it's a van chassis so I think I need to keep the tube that goes to the valve cover as my oil filler, I could eliminate the vented line that goes to the underside of the air cleaner if you don't think it would be an issue.
 I feel as though me sealing up the leaks in the PCV System  has deminished my performance a bit, would it hurt even more to remove one of the only other means of venting the crank case? Would performance be effected by to little crankcase ventilation? Is it possible to get a PVC valve that is to small/restrictive?

You definitely don't want to eliminate crankcase ventilation.
That's what carries away condensation and acidic vapors.

I'm not aware of having too small or too tight of a PCV valve being a problem.
Maybe someone else has encountered that?

I don't think eliminating vacuum leaks is ever going to decrease performance.
But it could certainly effect idle if you have removed the hot idle compensator (which is a controlled vacuum leak, just like the PCV)

So even though I've desmogged the motor, should I put the HIC back in? It would be in-between the port on the carb that is pulling crank case vaccum, and the PCV valve.
I finally found  the old parts I took off, here they are pictured. 
The black rubber is what I couldn't find at Napa, so they gave me the breather.

Nothing in the PCV system is "smog".  

Ford found a reason the motorhome chassis should have one.
I doubt they spent the engineering $ and time for no reason.
But maybe you find it superfluous.  IDK...

Maybe you should try it the next time you have the Cobra out for a road trip?

Just got back from a road trip before leaving I cleaned out the old PCV valve and put it back in place of the new one I had just bought. Cant say I noticed much of a difference in performance if any. Although It  did feel quite a bit different at 6,000 ft of elevation. We live and she's tuned to 600 ft. Never the less another road trip, and she never let me down, not even once. In other words the tools stayed packed.