Old Blue - 1984 XL Flareside

Chris,
I can't think of anything that might be open electrically that you'd need to drive the truck.
Far as I can tell, it's a boilerplate CYA warning about pinching or chafing wires.

I see you've spliced that line once already.
Steve (55 Pete) has suggested the nylon line used in semi cabs as replacement.
I would definitely tape something to the old line (new line if possible) so you can draw it through as you extract the broken one.

My Bricknose has those lines passing through up near the heater hose connections, but I bet you can get a better look at them in the cab when you remove the glove box.

Thanks Jim, I appreciate it.  I figured, but I didn't know if there was some tribal knowledge I was missing.

I have the whole interior torn apart - no dash, glove box, anything.  I'll play around with it and tug a bit, I'd rather replace the line.  The PO did the splice (but it was disconnected when I got the truck).  I reconnected it and all the sudden the blend door worked a lot better, so I'd like to keep it working.

What size inner diameter line do you suppose that is?

I think you need to go by outer diameter.

The plastic line fits into rubber couplers or fittings at each component of the system.

My caliper tells me it is 0.140 OD, and a drill bit tells me it is #53.... or 0.059" ID

Hope this helps.  

Mine broke in that rubber grommet, doors working the day before then stopped?
It took a bit to track down as it was "IN" the grommet!

IIRC I pushed the plastic lines out and forced 2 rubber hose as the pass thru the grommet as the plastic lines inside were in good shape think the motor bay side was also so just used rubber hose.
It was not a fun job LOL

I have 2 new check valves and my factory one that don't check
So every time the motor is under heavy load I loose my vent air.
Dave ----

Thanks guys, we shall see!  I found some tubing from a scientific site of all places - it's hard to find plastic tubing that small of a diameter.  It's a pretty close match, I'll let you know if it works out.  Should be here tomorrow....

Amazon has a whole section, and they pretty much absorbed Small Parts Company.

Another good source for stuff like that is McMaster Carr.

016 doesn't seem like a lot too big.

Hopefully the rubber fittings are resilient enough!  

While I usually use dial calipers, I'm going to make the suggestion you get electronic ones for the ease of switching between metric and imperial.

Also, beware of cheap calipers that never truly turn off.
These things eat batteries and always end up being dead when you most need them.

Shars/Aventour and Wixey both have inexpensive ($35-$45) 6" calipers, and have auto turnoff that works.
I keep the Wixey on the table saw fence because they also show fractions.

Thanks Jim, I ordered some calipers also from Amazon.  I have a feeling I'll be using them more moving forward.

I ordered a heater core, (Four Seasons 90582) and it doesn't fit in the heater box (is that the name for it?).  The top of the replacement core is square, and the original had a beveled top.  Basically, square peg, kinda round hole.  I found another one on Rock Auto I'm going to try, it looks more correct.  I didn't take the top shape into consideration - just because the basic dimensions are the same and the website says it's going to fit, doesn't always mean it's true!

On another subject, since I'm putting in a new fan clutch, I was toying around with the idea of dropping in a new water pump, thermostat, and radiator.  A cooling system makeover of sorts.  I looked in the documentation and there seeems to be two candidate radiators.  Any ideas?  This an 84 302 with AOD A/T transmission.

Yep, we just had another thread where someone had the same issue with a square top heater core.

Do you have ac?
Single row versus double row radiator, I would assume

Missed that one, sorry!  I'll look for it.  Yes, I have AC so I'm guessing the two row is what I'd want.  I just gotta figure out which that is.

No need to apologise.
We're all here to help each other!  
When you've been doing this as long as I have, you know what to ask

Appreciate that.  So I got the vacuum harness out... couldn't make the single line budge.

I think this should be E3TZ-19C827-A or C, but the ones on eBay look different (19C827 in the HVAC illustrations).  I would think the grommet would be part of this assembly, but it's not either.

Am I looking at the right thing?  I think I'd prefer to replace the whole assembly than fool with the one line - that grommet is pretty much impossible to get the line out of, and I for sure don't want the connector on the other end (three ported) to break.

Hmmm,  

As I've said, my truck has the pass-through up by the heater hoses.
I don't think I've ever tried to get one of these apart before.

Be aware that any number ON a part is the engineering number, and NOT the part number....

A lot of sellers don't know (or care) and you see parts that don't exist -as parts

Perhaps somebody who has the MPC on their drive can help?
(Mine is on CD and I don't have an optical drive)

I'm in the same boat, needing the same thing, but have not been able to find it. I figure I'll just end up cutting off what is still good and making my own lines using what is left with a new grommet.

I looked it up in the Documentation section of the site, there really isn't a part number (or engineering number) on this assembly at all that I can see, but it's a little grungy.  I just find it odd that when the number in the docs is searched for, it looks completely different!  The screenshot below isn't the engineering number, is it?

Hi Shaun,

Yeah, that may be the only choice.  How hard you think it'd be to get the lines into the plastic connector that's inside the cab?