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New member here and new bullnose owner.

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83bullnose

New member here and new bullnose owner.

Hello new here and new to owning a bullnose. I recently traded a eh running vehicle for my 1983 F350 4dr. The reason I traded was for the towing capacity of the truck. The truck has a 351w automatic trans and is 2wd. The problem I am currently having is when I put the key in and turn it nothing happens, no key buzzer lights or anything. I have tried to troubleshoot this issue via YouTube videos and trying to find wiring diagrams. Not one of the videos I have found describes what to do when you have nothing with the key. I also have no lights and it is not a dead battery although it might need a bigger battery the one in there looks like it might be kind of small. I do know the guy I got the truck from said he changed the starter solenoid out. It seems weird to me that battery is hooked directly into it. I just wonder if he hooked something up wrong. I am also not sure what to search for on here. If anyone on here has had the same issue or can direct me where to start testing for voltage to see if I have a faulty part somewhere. Thanks ahead of time for any help and advice.

1983 F350 white 4dr 2wd
351w automatic

Gary Lewis

Re: New member here and new bullnose owner.

Administrator

Welcome! Glad you joined.

Where's home? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and can add you with a city/state or zip.

This really isn't the place to get a lot of help on your issue as it is the introduction folder. But I'll suggest a few things here and let you start a thread in the main section to take it farther.

On electrical issues the Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) is your friend. The 1985 one is here, but it is pretty close to being right for yours. And you are probably right that your friend hooked something up incorrectly.

You didn't say if you have gauges or idiot lights, but the hookup at the starter relay is basically the same. The fuse links that feed the fusebox connect to the battery side of the starter relay, as shown below. If he put them on the other side of the relay it will not work.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

83bullnose

Re: New member here and new bullnose owner.

Eastern North Carolina, 27937 is home. I saw those but wasn't sure one to look at whether the 81 or 85. I will take a look at it tomorrow when I get off work. Thank you.

1983 F350 white 4dr 2wd
351w automatic

Gary Lewis

Re: New member here and new bullnose owner.

Administrator

You are now on the map.

There's not a whole lot of difference between '81 and '85, so either EVTM will work. And especially for this discussion as that wiring didn't change.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

grumpin

Re: New member here and new bullnose owner.

In reply to this post by 83bullnose

Welcome!

Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold
1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD
1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E
Arizona

FuzzFace2

Re: New member here and new bullnose owner.

In reply to this post by 83bullnose

83bullnose wrote

Eastern North Carolina, 27937 is home. I saw those but wasn't sure one to look at whether the 81 or 85. I will take a look at it tomorrow when I get off work. Thank you.

Welcome
You are a little more north & east from me as I am about 30 min south east of Raleigh, Angier NC.

Can you post up a picture of the solenoid & wiring.
Either the PO wired it wrong (hope) or a fuse link is bad as they bolt to the solenoid.
Dave ----

Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100

83bullnose

Re: New member here and new bullnose owner.

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Yeah the wires were on the starter side, I switched them over to the battery side. Now I have a new issue, the cable that goes down to the starter is getting hot after I try to start the truck. I will put up a new thread for recommendations on what to check for this. Thank you Gary, for that info earlier.

1983 F350 white 4dr 2wd
351w automatic

Gary Lewis

Re: New member here and new bullnose owner.

Administrator

These trucks are like onions, with problems in layers. You peel and cry, peel and cry. But soon you'll have enough for a Bloomin' Onion!

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

83bullnose

Re: New member here and new bullnose owner.

I agree with that. What is weird for me is I used to own a 87 mustang with a 5.0 in it and don't remember having ignition issues with it, although it did have a MDS ignition system on it when I bought the car. So did they only run the starter relay on the trucks or was that something they did on all the older fords? I also put up a new thread, I got the truck to crank over but the starter continues to crank, everything I have found about this tells me its the starter relay, but I did just put a brand new one in there. Anyway the new Thread is starter continues to crank.

1983 F350 white 4dr 2wd
351w automatic

Gary Lewis

Re: New member here and new bullnose owner.

Administrator

All of the Fords used a starter relay. GM had the relay as part of a solenoid built into the starter, but Ford kept it separate and that made it much easier to repair. I remember being on vacation with my brother and his Chevy 350-powered boat didn't want to crank. We pulled the starter, disassembled it, and turned the copper washer in the solenoid over so it had new contact surfaces. Fixed it, but sure wasn't easy.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

mat in tn

Re: New member here and new bullnose owner.

it is not very uncommon for an aftermarket starter relay to not be able to release once letting off of the key. the contacts can arc /weld together sometimes and it is possible for this to be stronger than the return spring can handle. whack it firmly with the handle of a screwdriver and if it stops then it is exactly what has happened. once again i am convinced that the best available part is a motorcraft option. yes its more money and may need to be ordered but cheap and easy is not the only option. if you cant afford to do it twice then do it right once.