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FordFETruck

New guy here

Hello all. New guy here, although some of you will probably recognize me from a past forum. Names Matthew, my truck is an 86 F250 4X2 with a 351W, C6 auto and 10.25" rear with 3.55 gears, I've had it for 10 years now, and not sure where that time has gone. My last projects were fixing what a pothole messed up - bent inner tie rod and adjuster sleeve on the passenger side and I did the kingpins at the same time, found it needs a crossmember to frame rivet replaced as it's slightly loose when steering, that's my next project this coming weekend.

1986 F250 351W, C6, 10.25 Semi float 3.55 gear, 250K Miles

Gary Lewis

Re: New guy here

Administrator

Welcome, Matthew! I remember you! Glad you joined.

Nice truck. Bummer on the pot hole damage. But if the rivet is the Huck bolt then that's par for the course.

Where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state or zip.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

FordFETruck

Re: New guy here

Yeah, not looking forward to the rivet, it's the one the TSB is out for. Actually, in 2005 the crossmember had a crack repair a few inches to the left of the rivet, but that's been fine since. How do I get a bolt in from the top side? looks like I have to fish it in with a stick magnet?

Home is Auburn, WA 98001

1986 F250 351W, C6, 10.25 Semi float 3.55 gear, 250K Miles

Gary Lewis

Re: New guy here

Administrator

You are now on the map.

And yes, that one is in the TSB. It is a pain, but getting the bolt in was easier than getting the nut in, and then tightening it. I got the nut in by hot-melt gluing it to a screwdriver so I could hold it and turn the bolt to catch it. Easy enough, but tightening was a bit harder.

I wound up placing a blank 3/8" lathe bit between the flat of the nut and the front edge of the crossmember. It was a tight fit and the bit and nut were hard enough that it wouldn't slip past as I tightened the bolt.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

FordFETruck

Re: New guy here

I figured it would be a fun one to replace...LOL

I know it says to use a lock nut, but what about using a standard grade 8 fine thread nut with loctite instead? I figure I can give the nut, since it faces the outside of the frame quick blips of the trigger with an impact to get it to tighten up if the bolt fits in the hole snugly, possibly holding one of the flats with a screwdriver through the top of the frame/steering box area to get it to tighten up initially and not spin? Then after that I noticed the PS reservoir is starting to leak a bit, so that needs resealed. I've thought about the saginaw conversion but don't really wanna spend the money. The C2 pump I have still works well and is relatively quiet.

1986 F250 351W, C6, 10.25 Semi float 3.55 gear, 250K Miles

Gary Lewis

Re: New guy here

Administrator

I would use Loctite Orange rather than Blue. But yes, that would work instead of a lock nut.

And any way you can get it to tighten would work. But you do need to torque it pretty tight as there's a lot of force right there. I reamed it like the TSB says and got a nice tight fit, and that took the popping out of it.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

FordFETruck

Re: New guy here

I was planning on using red, as I don't see the need for that to ever come apart again. It's weird, the crossmember moves more than the frame does when I have someone steer the wheel back and forth, the rivet is still tight in the frame itself, although sounds weird when hit with a hammer compared to the other rivets. Luckily the movement it does have when steering is very, very minimal. I have to hold my head really steady to even see it moving/flexing. I shall post more about my journey when I get into it this coming weekend.

Really enjoying how the truck steers with the new kingpins though, return to center is better than it ever has been, and the steering effort is reduced by quite a bit.

1986 F250 351W, C6, 10.25 Semi float 3.55 gear, 250K Miles

Gary Lewis

Re: New guy here

Administrator

Yes, red is probably the best way to go. And a fine-thread bolt will have a higher max torque rating, so that's a good idea. Clamp it as hard as you can.

I'll look forward to your report.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

FuzzFace2

Re: New guy here

I have not looked into what you guys are talking about but to keep either the bolt or nut from turning what if you were to weld it to flat stock with a hole in it for the threads to pass through.

Fish that in where it has to go and once the threads are cough the flat stock would hit the sides of the frame and keep it from turning.
The flat stock would also act as a washer to spread the load out more too.
Dave ----

Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100

ArdWrknTrk

Re: New guy here

Administrator

TSB 912518 refers to a fastener holding the front cross member close to the steering box.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

grumpin

Re: New guy here

In reply to this post by FordFETruck

Welcome!

Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold
1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD
1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E
Arizona

85lebaront2

Re: New guy here

Administrator

In reply to this post by FordFETruck

Welcome, I saw where you had requested to join and been approved. Glad to have you here. Truck still looks great!

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

FordFETruck

Re: New guy here

Thanks! it's getting time for a repaint, it's getting harder and harder to keep clean and harder to wash. I had purchased a marti report for this thing a couple years back and found the paint combo is 1 of 124 for the paint/trim combo and 1 of 498 for all trim combos. Needless to say, it'll be repainted the same colors. I took the truck to work today which involves a bit of 65 mph, a lot of windy curvy roads with potholes and just a crappy commute all together. Truck drove pretty good and is way less white knuckle on the highway at high speeds with the new kingpins. I think once the frame rivet is repaired and maybe loosen the preload on the steering box since it seems a bit over adjusted now it'll be great.

1986 F250 351W, C6, 10.25 Semi float 3.55 gear, 250K Miles

Gary Lewis

Re: New guy here

Administrator

That preload on the steering box can be a big issue. Doesn't take much and you have no feel and wind up chasing it all the time. I'd rather have a bit of play than no feel.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

FordFETruck

Re: New guy here

Yeah, last year I installed a new borgeson steering shaft and tightened up the box preload a little to help keep it from bump steering so much. Now that it has new kingpins that actually move freely and don't allow the spindles to move up and down .050" or so it doesn't need to be so tight. It's not terrible though.

1986 F250 351W, C6, 10.25 Semi float 3.55 gear, 250K Miles

FordFETruck

Re: New guy here

Well, somewhat bad news. I remembered I had a endoscope camera that connects to my phone and I got a video of the bad crossmember to frame rivet, it looks like the rivet is split and the crossmember is cracked. Not sure how to fix this one, might just sell the truck and buy something newer at this point.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L89e5ojLVEA

There is the endoscope video. Either that's been cracked the entire time I've had the truck or that horrendous pothole cracked it.

1986 F250 351W, C6, 10.25 Semi float 3.55 gear, 250K Miles

Gary Lewis

Re: New guy here

Administrator

That is a bummer!

But I watched the video a couple of times and I'm not sure I understand what I'm seeing. At one point it looks like I'm seeing two things moving, but I'm not sure what they are. Can you walk me through it?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

FordFETruck

Re: New guy here

The two things you can see moving at the beginning of the video is the crossmember where it sits against the frame rail, and those two little blobs in the middle of the crack are the head of the rivet on the inside of the frame, it's split. Judging by how greasy it is I'd say it's been like that a long time. I'm surprised the frame is still OK. I think I could gain access to it if I removed the mount the steering box attaches to. It needs welded at the minimum. I don't know, I really don't feel like fixing that with how my back and neck condition has deteriorated these days.

1986 F250 351W, C6, 10.25 Semi float 3.55 gear, 250K Miles

Gary Lewis

Re: New guy here

Administrator

Ok, I think I can picture it now.

Man, that would be a lot of work to fix! And unless you have a lift it would be hard on backs and necks.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

FordFETruck

Re: New guy here

I did the kingpins in my driveway, on uneven asphalt. Normally I'd do that in the garage, but my galaxie sits in there and I didn't want to leave that out for a week straight. That job wasn't so bad, but I did so much hammering getting the pins out (wasn't even that much) I lost the feeling in my left hand for a while. It might be for sale! something also happened with the engine about a year or so ago, it has some blowby now and the MPG took a bit of a dive and it started using a little bit of oil, still runs the same though.

1986 F250 351W, C6, 10.25 Semi float 3.55 gear, 250K Miles