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My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

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Rembrant

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Gary Lewis wrote

These things? This is from Page 9 of the 1981 Accessories Catalog.

Yes, those trim pieces. My truck came with a couple of them in a box. Wasn't sure if they were standard equipment or optional accessories.

1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

Gary Lewis

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Administrator

I think the truck could be ordered with them as I believe they show in the dealer's fact book, although I'll check later. However, I think accessories like that got shipped with the truck and installed by the dealer. So, it wouldn't surprise me if yours have never been installed.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Rembrant

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

In reply to this post by Rembrant

Talked to the engine shop today and they now have the new pistons. The engine should be assembled next week sometime, and going on the dyno the week of May 22-25 for break-in and tuning. The dyno time is a little extravagant for this old truck, but I didn't think the charge was that bad, and I really just wanted to get the engine back ready to drop-in and turn the key.

So, any predictions on HP and TQ numbers from the experts?

Original '84 non-roller 302 bored 0.030" over.
GT-40 Explorer heads.
Compression will be approx 9.1:1
Full Comp Cam XE250H kit
Holley 600 CFM 4160 Carb w/vac secondaries
DSII Distributor (re-curved for quicker advance)
Headers (Not sure which ones yet).

Gary Lewis

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Administrator

I like the idea of breaking one in on the dyno. Then you know what you have and that there aren't any problems.

As for HP, my 406 with 10.5:1 and aluminum heads turned in 400 HP. So a 302 with 9.1 compression might be 302/406 x 400 x 9.1/(10.5-.9) = 282 HP. And for torque, my engine put out 500 ft-lbs and you have the same size bore (4") but a 3.00" stroke as opposed to a 4" stroke. So 3.00/4.00 x 9.1/(10.5-.9) x 500 = 355 ft-lbs.

Is that scientific enough? But, note that I've conveniently left out lots and lots of things, like cam duration, lift, etc. However, those are my guesses. Let's see what the others come up with.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Rembrant

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Gary Lewis wrote

I like the idea of breaking one in on the dyno. Then you know what you have and that there aren't any problems.

Yeah, that was my thinking as well on the dyno break-in. They sell the dyno time in full day blocks, so we'll have lots of time to play around with jetting and timing if need be. With all the 302/5.0 reading and studying I've done Gary, your HP and TQ estimates should be pretty darn close. I could have bumped up to the XE256H cam which would have gotten me to (or close to) 300HP, but I would at the same time lose 20 ft/lbs TQ at 2000 RPM. If my internet searches are correct, my factory 1984 302 2v was rated for 133 HP and 250 ft/lbs TQ, so an increase to 282 HP/355 TQ will be nice. Add on top of that a 5spd swap to remove that dreadful 3-spd, I think it will be OK.

Out of curiosity, I am also going to weigh the truck this summer and see where it comes in. I read somewhere online that a 2wd V8 Bullnose Flareside was in the area of 3450 lbs. I am removing some factory pounds with the aluminum intake and removal of the cast iron manifolds, smog pump, cats, etc.
However the larger tires and wheels I'm running are definitely heavier than the originals, and the aluminum bodied 5spd is probably a little heavier than the old iron 3spd. Not that the weight even matters...It's not like I'm racing or anything, I'm just curious is all.

Gary Lewis

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Administrator

Make sure you video the dyno pulls! It sure is a sweet time, and you'll want to savor it.

As for the weight, the 1981 dealer's fact book says 3416 for the starting weight.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

1986F150Six

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Administrator

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Gary Lewis wrote

As for HP, my 406 with 10.5:1 and aluminum heads turned in 400 HP. So a 302 with 9.1 compression might be 302/406 x 400 x 9.1/(10.5-.9) = 282 HP. And for torque, my engine put out 500 ft-lbs and you have the same size bore (4") but a 3.00" stroke as opposed to a 4" stroke. So 3.00/4.00 x 9.1/(10.5-.9) x 500 = 355 ft-lbs.

Is that scientific enough? But, note that I've conveniently left out lots and lots of things, like cam duration, lift, etc. However, those are my guesses. Let's see what the others come up with.

What he said!

Rembrant

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

So,

Another question:

I have the 5 vol set of factory service manuals for my 1984 truck. There doesn't appear to be much of a wiring diagram with them. Is it there and I'm just not seeing it? Or was a proper wiring diagram something separate?

Gary Lewis

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Administrator

Bingo! There are wiring booklets that have many very wide fold-out pages, and there are the EVTM's. I have an example of a wiring booklet here: Electrical/Wiring Diagrams. However, I don't find the on-line version useful at all, and rarely refer to the physical version as they are really difficult to use since you usually have to trace wires across several pages. Instead, the EVTM's break the circuits down into digestable lumps that typically are contained on one page.

But, the wiring booklets/diagrams are "the bible". They appear to have been done first and the EVTM's then created from them. So sometimes I go to the diagrams if there is a question about something on an EVTM's page.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Rembrant

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Ahh, OK, understood. I'll have a look back through the EVTM then and see if I can find anything useful.

I need to pick-up some butt connectors today to bypass a 4-prong plug, and I was trying to figure out what the wire gauges were. (The truck is 20 miles away). They're probably 16 or 18 ga for the most part, but there is one fat yellow wire there that must be a 12 or 12 gauge.

Gary Lewis

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Administrator

You do plan to use the high-dollar butt connectors that have a seal to them - right?

My belief is that the run-of-the-mill butt/crimp connector has no place in a vehicle if not used with the high-end crimpers that create enormous forces and effectively make the metal of the connector one with the wire. Or, used as the base for a soldered connection that is then covered with shrink tubing.

I've seen way too many of the crimps made with the cheap crimpers pull loose, and even those that don't frequently have problems later due to corrosion because the crimp is so poorly done.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Rembrant

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Gary Lewis wrote

You do plan to use the high-dollar butt connectors that have a seal to them - right?

Yes, sir, all good stuff for me. I was an industrial controls tech for quite a few years, so I know all about the good crimping tools and good connections. I just don't have any more of the sealed connectors left, so I think I'll just grab a handful of sizes to make sure I have enough.

Gary Lewis

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Administrator

Good! Too many people think that the cheap crimp connectors are the way to go. But they will be a problem some day - it is just a matter of when. And when is partially determined by where they are used. On trailer connectors the "when" will be very soon.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Rembrant

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Gary Lewis wrote

I like the idea of breaking one in on the dyno. Then you know what you have and that there aren't any problems.

So I've run into another hiccup with my engine assembly. This thing is going to be the death of me...lol. They've had the engine for over 2 months now!

Have you guys ever heard of a new cam being bent? Or, I guess I should say not being 100% straight? My new Comp cam had too much run out and was actually tight to turn in the block. I've installed camshafts in VW diesels before, but they were short stubby things that were quite heavy...not long and skinny like a V8 camshaft. Maybe it was dropped in shipping somewhere along the way before it got to me.

So I am going to switch to the next size up Comp XE cam. I was going with the XE250H (31-230-3) which was recommended by a lot of people, but unfortunately was not available quickly from the supplier the engine shop uses. We looked at a few options, and all of the same profile cams in the 351/302HO firing order, and the one that we could get the quickest that fit the application the best was the Comp Cams XE256H (31-234-3). The engine shop's preference was to use Lunati, but their supplier didn't have what we needed either. Comparing to the XE250H, the XE256H will bump my peak HP up to the 300 range, and I will lose a little bit of low end torque. I am OK with that.

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=798&sb=2

I know the argument is always there that the torque is needed for a heavy truck, but all said and done, my truck at 3400 lbs stock wouldn't be much heavier than a fully loaded Mustang GT hatchback.

In any case, the little 302 should be assembled by mid next week, and then break-in and dyno tuning the week after. Fingers crossed.

Gary Lewis

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Administrator

I haven't heard of a bent cam, but that would certainly be a problem. There's basically zero room for run out, and too much of it would cause a serious bind. Glad they found it.

With no A/C and a manual tranny you should be fine with the "bigger" cam - and especially since you are not planning to use the truck for towing. And, as you say, the truck isn't heavy so it should work fine.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

FuzzFace2

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Yes I have heard of the cam being bent or more so hard to turn and want to say they were also Comp cams.
This was a few years ago and with blanks for AMC motors.
Dave ----

Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100

Rembrant

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

In a couple days it will be six months since I started my project thread. Hoping to get my engine back by the end of the May, and hoping to have the truck moving under it's own power by mid-June. That's the rough plan at least. Still haven't even touched or thought about body work yet...that's a whole other project on it's own.

I was planning on draining the gas tank so I could start out with nice fresh fuel. Any tips or tricks for doing this or just old fashioned siphon hose into a jerry can?

Still on the to-do list for the next couple weeks...
Order hydraulic clutch master, slave, line, and release bearing.
Order new PS pump and lines.
Get a new radiator or have mine redone at a rad shop...whatever the best option is these days?
New belts and rad hoses...
Sand blast and paint PS pump and Alternator brackets.
Sand blast and paint mounting bracket for charcoal canister and battery tray.
See if I can rehab my "new" used core support...it is tweaked a little on driver's side.
Re-install or replace my new U-joints (I installed them backwards...duh).

Ray Cecil

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Looking great!!

On the gas tank thing, Harbor freight sells a nice siphon pump for like $6. I use that. But a long tube and some sucking is way cheaper. Don't suck too hard

1988 F250 Supercab Longbed 7.3 IDI, C6, 1356, GEARVENDORS, 4.10 Sterling with autolocker

1986 F150 302, C6, 9" 2.75, Wood Flatbed

Rembrant

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Ray Cecil wrote

Looking great!!

On the gas tank thing, Harbor freight sells a nice siphon pump for like $6. I use that. But a long tube and some sucking is way cheaper. Don't suck too hard

I'll check on a siphon pump tomorrow. Thanks for the tip. The gas that's in there might be fine, but it has been sitting for six months, and with a fresh rebuild and brand new carb, I'd like to have some nice fresh fuel in there. Even if it is a placebo effect, I'm OK with that;).

Engine bay is looking decent....in pictures at least...lol. The whole truck is still pretty scabby to look at, but at least this year it should work good. Will focus on body work next winter. Right now, I just want to drive it.

Rembrant

Re: My 1984 F150 2wd Flareside Project "Blue Mule"

Today was power steering pump day! (And other miscellaneous sand blasting and painting of rusty engine bay bits).

I didn't take a picture at the start of the day, but I should have. My old power steering pump and bracket was all corroded and covered in oil and crud. Went back and cropped a previous engine picture:

I bought one of those runky dink power steering pulley puller/installer kits, and no way could I get that pulley to budge on the shaft. I heated it up with a propane torch first, and then acetylene, and no dice. The tool just wouldn't budge it. I'm sure you guys will find this next step to have been a bit crude, but I was getting sick of trying to remove the pulley the proper way, and just stuck the whole damn thing in a chop saw and carefully brought the blade down between the pulley and the bracket/bolts.

After that, I took the pulley over to the hydraulic press, and the remainder of the shaft was pressed out in no time. Done and dusted.

Next was sand blasting, wire wheeling, and painting. Even painted the bolts.

And with the rest of the mounting bracketry and pulley installed. Looking much better!

I also blasted and painted a few other odds and ends...this one being the bracket where the charcoal canister mounts, and the inside end of the battery tray.

Painfully slow all of this stuff, but I guess it will all be worth it in the end. Dyno day is tentatively scheduled for this coming Thursday, so the engine could be back in the old Blue Mule as early as Saturday.

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