Must Do Truck Upgrades?

Hello everyone!

New member here so I just wanted to ask what your top “must-do” upgrades are for your truck.

If you could start over again, what would you tell your past self to start with?

Thanks!

Here she is so far:


All I’ve done so far is:
- Oil change
- Coolant flush
- LED headlights
- LED dashboard lights
- Aftermarket stereo/speakers
- Wash and polish

Take a look here for some common ones.

One thing that every new Bullnose owner should do is remove the kickpanels and inspect/clean out behind them.

Also, pull out the resistor on the hvac box in the engine bay and ensure it's clean of debris.

Thanks! Great suggestions. I’ll be sure to check out that post.

Jordan - Which LED headlights did you go with?  Are you happy with them?

Regarding Scott's suggestion of pulling the HVAC resistor, that is a MUST.  But you might find it helpful to not only pull the resistor but also pull the motor.  Just takes a few screws to get it out and it gives even more access into the innards of the plenum.

I've forgotten what year your truck is already.    So it would be helpful if you put some details about it in a signature, instructions for which can be found on the Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's page.

But the reason the year is important is that the 1986 trucks came with the dreaded 2G alternators.  It has been called the Firestarter by some due to a connection problem it had.  So if yours is an '86 you should read 2G ALTERNATOR REPAIR: TSB 96-21-4.

For the LED headlights I just went with a company called Kaslight on Amazon - part #H6054. They’re only $55 and they’re BRIGHT! Best thing is, they’re plug and play.

An alternator is definitely one of my next things I want to do. While I don’t think I have a 2G, I’m pretty sure my amperage is very low.

Actually, on that note, would I just be able to install a one wire alternator? Seems so much easier than trying to find a 3G. My only concern is trying to find an alternator that actually fits in the stock bracket. Do you know of any brands that fit right off the bat?

Also, while we’re talking about electrical, I just installed an aftermarket stereo and after putting everything back together and starting up the truck, my volt gauge on the dash is pinned on the high side. Malfunction? What could have caused that?
The truck runs perfectly fine so I’m confused

Glad the headlights are working for you.  There is a lot of junk out there so you have to be careful.

On the alternator, I don't know much about the 1-wire units.  But I very much dislike the Powermaster brand.  I have one in a box I'll give you, but it has something wrong in it and they don't sell parts.  You have to ship it back to them.  I highly prefer an off the shelf unit you can get at any parts store so if it goes out on a trip you aren't stuck.

As for finding a 3G, you can order one from DB Electric.  But you should make some wiring changes, as discussed on the page at Documentation/Electrical/3G Conversion.

Which leads me to your question about the "voltmeter".  It isn't a voltmeter, it is an ammeter.  And my guess is that you pulled the battery down quite a bit during the installation of the stereo and the regulator is trying to charge it.  But, it shouldn't do that for very long, and should only do that when the engine speed is above idle.

So tell us more about what is going on?

Nice truck.  You should do several gas changes.   The way you do that is get in and drive til it needs more.  Put some in.  Drive some more.  

You've covered the oil and coolant.   Good start.   How are the brakes?  Might want to check those.  

I have had mixed results with Powermaster starters but so far no complaints on the 1 wire alt of theirs that I am using. It's called a Ford Upgrade. Pros and cons with everything but based on my experience I wouldn't have  a problem recommending it. Not sure what motor you have but you will want to ensure you will also hit the rpm threshold when starting.
Additionally, for anyone going this route, it would be best to get a spare alt harness that you cut up so that in a pinch you can swap back to an off the shelf offering like Gary stated.

While I wouldn't have a problem recommending the 1 wire, I'd second the 3G as the better option for most situations.

Scott - On the "rpm threshold" do you mean that you have to pick which alternator to use or which pulley to use in order to have the alternator kick in at idle?

And on the harness, you are suggesting carrying a spare harness with you on trips so you can go back to a 1G when the Powermaster fails? So, you'd walk into a parts store and buy a new 1G and regulator? Or carry all that with you as well as the harness?

(Jordan - Scott and I know each other pretty well, and I like to think we are good friends. So don't think we are mad at each other or something.)

Nice looking truck! Is that original paint? Since joining here, I've done most of the improvement mods that Scott posted above. The 3G alternator mod was a must do for me, as the old 2G is prone to fires. You definitely want to do the headlight mod as well.....simple harness, almost plug and play.

Regarding the 3G vs 1 wire - so from my understanding, once you wire the 3G you’d be able to go to any auto part store and use an alt off the shelf?? Sorry, new to this!

Also, when doing the 1 wire, did you have to alter the harness in anyway? Did you have to with the 3G?

Regarding the ammeter - I’m at the firehouse right now so I can’t look at the truck, but right when I installed the stereo, the ammeter is now pinned to the highest it can go. Is this just indicating that the battery is trying to get charged back up?

Thanks!

Yep, it’s all original paint. Don’t get me wrong, the paint is nowhere near mint. It has some clear coat peeling off, but I polished the whole car with a buffer wheel so she’s lookin extra glossy!

Did you have to alter the mount for the alt when you used the power master? Also, what do you mean by the RPM threshold? Do you have a part number? I’m guessing the one you used fits an 82 f250?

Yes, the ammeter is probably just showing that the battery is getting charged back up.

And yes, with a 3G you can walk into any parts store around and probably get an alternator off their shelf to fit.  And if not off their shelf then they'll be able to get it very quickly.

As for modifying the harness, yes it needs to be changed for the 3G and I'm pretty sure it does for the 1-wire.  One of the reasons for that is because the shunt that drives that ammeter is not capable of carrying the amount of current the new alternators can put out.  So you have to change the wiring so that the shunt isn't in the charging circuit.

Go read the page I linked to above as it outlines what needs to be done.

I can't say if the bracket would need modifying, but on a 3G alternator, if you can use the large case (Gary has the measurements somewhere) a 1994-95 Taurus is a good source, the 3.8L ones had 130 amp alternators that fit in place of the large frame 1 and 2G models and if you get one in a junkyard, grab as much of the pigtail as you can, at least as far as the main harness across the top of the radiator.

I probably go against the grain of the general consensus here, but I'm still running 1G alternators in both trucks. The original 1G 40 amp alt is still in the '84, and I just installed a new reman 1G 70amp alternator in the 1980. All I'm powering is a Duraspark II ignition module and the radio, and occasionally the headlights and/or blower fan. I don't know anything about the 2G alternator though other than it should definitely be replaced/upgraded.

Upgrades or things to do...

1. Buy and install a good fire extinguisher, preferably somewhere on the driver's side where you can grab it very quickly (you said you were a fireman, right?)
2. Check and replace if necessary any rubber fuel lines on the pressure side (between the pump and carb). Make sure the line is secured and not loose or flopping around like many are.
3. Check and replace if necessary all ground cables, and clean all connections...even the little ones on the insides of the fenders by the marker lights. Same with the ground wires on the block, and the one from the block to the firewall. Make sure they are good, or replace them imho.

My favorite modifications are the things that have made the truck more pleasant to drive. The RedHead steering box and other steering upgrades (replaced the intermediate shaft, and all tie-rods and ball joints, etc). I find that having an overdrive is a welcome addition to these trucks if you don't already have it. That's not a quick or easy mod, but it's certainly possible, and almost plug-N-play if you get the parts from a later model F-series pickup.

For quick and easy stuff I highly recommend painting the needles of your gauges, and re-doing the silver edge trim of your interior bezels, and swapping in some LED bulbs in your instrument cluster. Those few things will make your interior/dash absolutely pop...you'll love it. It's funny, and I see it all the time...a Bullnose for sale, all restored top to bottom with an asking price of $20,000 and the gauge needles will be all faded...ha. It's nit picky, I know, but it drives me crazy.

Some of us have installed later model brake master cylinders (aluminum with plastic reservoirs). There are a couple benefits to having them if you're so inclined. Visual fluid level inspection, and you can connect the float so that your brake warning light will illuminate when/if the level gets low. Scott has some good info on how to beautify and preserve the original style master cylinder (which I would have done myself had I known about it earlier).

Last question, I promise 

Are there conversion kits to change a one v pulley system to a two pulley system? My truck has 2 belts attached to the alt. I found one for a TuffStuff alt... do you think it’s interchangeable with a different brand alt? Everything I’m looking at that fits my truck all seems to be one pulley.

Quick moving thread

Cory mentioned a lot of good things and I am also still running a 1G in my 80 with no complaints.

Maybe I missed it but what engine is in the 82?

To my knowledge they (Powermaster and maybe all 1 wire manufacturers) don't offer RPM options so it's up to the installer to address via the pulley. Since the 1 wire is self-exciting this is important because if it's not spinning fast enough it won't start charging as opposed to alternators that have an excite wire. To my knowledge I only ran into the issue once when tuning the engine but it's worth mentioning. The shaft speed is 1650rpm to excite on the Ford Upgrade.

The Ford Upgrade offering is pretty much GM guts in a Ford casing. No bracket changes needed for it.
Mine is 8-57141. Looks like they list it as 140A but mine was 150A when purchased.

Them's fighting words Gary
Carrying the spare harness is one option though and if I remembered before heading out on a really long trip, I'd throw it (2g in my case) in a bag. The other option would be buying a 12si alt and swapping the pulley and front half of the case out. Not ideal but doable.

Let me put it this way - for me the risk is worth the reward. I like it and my personal experience is such that I would recommend it as an option for someone but the proprietary part of it is enough of a concern that I wouldn't want to recommend it without trying to paint the whole picture.

Ed at powermaster is great to talk to about these.

kramttocs wrote

Them's fighting words Gary
Carrying the spare harness is one option though and if I remembered before heading out on a really long trip, I'd throw it (2g in my case) in a bag. The other option would be buying a 12si alt and swapping the pulley and front half of the case out. Not ideal but doable.

Let me put it this way - for me the risk is worth the reward. I like it and my personal experience is such that I would recommend it as an option for someone but the proprietary part of it is enough of a concern that I wouldn't want to recommend it without trying to paint the whole picture.

At the risk of sounding like Jim (), I guess I don't understand "the risk is worth the award".  A Powermaster 8-57141 is $207 and is rated at 140 amps.  A 3G from DB Electric is something like $70 and puts out 130 amps - and over 100 amps at idle.  I see a lot of risk, but where's the reward?

I'm building my trucks so that my offspring, who are not into auto work, can maintain them.  I grant that if you walk into a parts store they'll ask what the vehicle is and "a 1985 F250" as an answer won't get you a 3G.  But, as Bill said, if you just say "a '95 Taurus w/a 3.8L" they'll hand you an alternator that will bolt right in.

Ouch. Didn't realize they were that much. I bought mine NIB locally. I fully admit I don't really have a good answer that would make sense to anyone else but a big part of it was that it fit into how I wanted to do the wiring.
So while it's worth the risk to me in my setup, I am also not blind to the reasons someone would think it's a bad idea.

I am not trying to talk anyone into it or out of it and hope it doesn't come across that way. Just saying that if someone is wanting to go with a 1 wire that I have had a good experience with this Powermaster and wouldn't hesitate (well, aside from the cost...) to put one on another of my trucks.

Now, if it gives up the ghost tomorrow I may be singing a different tune...