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All this makes sense to me now after reading your posts and watching the below linked video. Thanks, gentlemen. BTW, this is horrible! We have a lighting thread that has gone to a relay mod thread, back to lighting and then back to relay mod again. My bad!!! Gary, you can finish it off when you get your tombstones such that it is lighting again...lol!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUBQ54_EFfM
John
"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner |
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We went from shop lighting to something about the lighting of your truck, that you would do IN your shop.
These detours happen here in the Garagemahal!
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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It is all lighting, so what's the problem?
On the video, I don't recommend doing it quite that way. I don't think it is safe to come off the battery with un-fused wires. Instead I put an auto-reset circuit breaker by the battery and then come off of it.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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And, it has been enlightening! This is a s-t-r-e-t-c-h, but I believe will be accepted as being "close" to the original topic. Enjoy!!! https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=john+travolta+greased+lightning&ru=%2fsearch%3fq%3djohn%2btravolta%2bgreased%2blightning%26form%3dEDNTHT%26refig%3d51804e4a99da4632b883bc938ee4ef7e%26mkt%3den-us%26msnews%3d1%26PC%3dHCTS%26sp%3d1%26qs%3dAS%26pq%3djohn%2btravolta%2bgreased%2blight%26sk%3dPRES1%26sc%3d6-27%26cvid%3d51804e4a99da4632b883bc938ee4ef7e%26cc%3dUS%26setlang%3den-US&view=detail&mid=1D81C0BF69D566A848911D81C0BF69D566A84891&&FORM=VDRVRV |
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
You're the boss, Gary...... Can you give me specifics on your auto-reset circuit breaker....amperage, etc? Also, why auto reset and not manual? That's some pretty thick wire you have coming off of it too. What gauge is that? Do you see a problem with me utilizing one of these kits with that auto reset circuit breaker?
John
"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner |
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In reply to this post by 1986F150Six
Stretch....lol!
John
"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner |
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In reply to this post by Machspeed
I'm not Gary, but the breaker should be rated to protect the harness attached to it.
i.e. a 15A breaker for 16G wire 20 for 14 30 for 10-12 Auto reset means as soon as you clear the short your lights come back on. No playing with a button or looking for a fuse.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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Thanks, Jim. I missed that question.
Yes, auto-reset is what most automobile manufacturers use on headlights as you do not want to be fumbling in the dark to manually reset one. Here's one I've used before:
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I don't presume to speak for you, Gary.
But I do understand the what and why, having wired up my little PCM. And now that I'm reminded.. I'm going to dig around in the clutter at the bottom of my "harness" tote and find two.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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You can speak for me any time, Jim. I'd be right more often that way.
Find "two" what? Breakers to see if they'll fit in the PCM? I looked at mine yesterday, and the factory breaker that I have in my PDB for the headlights fits in a maxifuse slot.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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It's not my place, and that's why I qualified it in my reply.
Yes, I'm going to dig for two 15A resetting breakers. I'm pretty sure they're in there.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
They have pull chains on them. Most likely the 5,000 lumen fixtures. I'm in Louisiana at the moment. Heading home tomorrow. I'll take a look at them. On an even brighter note, the new aluminum radiator arrived! It's a happy new part day
“Anything that gets your blood racing is probably worth doing.”
Hunter S. Thompson |
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See, even that fits in "Lighting".
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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It is lighter, but it also transfers heat better than brass.
If it were me I would want to black anodize it.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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How would you do that, Jim? What chemicals would you use? I ask selfishly 'cause the engine oil cooler on Big Blue is easily seen through the grille and I'd wondered about painting it black but then remembered that would reduce the heat transfer. But I don't think anodizing would, or at least not much.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Anodizing is a process where you either use a caustic or electrochemical process to open the 'pores' of the aluminum.
Then you dye it and passivate it to seal it in. First, you need to know what alloy. Some work great, some hardly at all. Dyes are fugitive. Some (like red) more than others. But I would expect black to last a while.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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There may also be some processes similar to cold bluing steel, but I can't say for sure.
That would be a lot simpler, and less messy.
Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake. Too much other stuff to mention. |
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A bit of reading says that anodizing requires the part to be VERY clean. My oil cooler isn't.
Also, lots of things I've read say that a thin coat of high temp black spray paint, like for a BBQ grill, actually helps transfer heat. So I think that's the way I'll go as it'll be easy and doesn't require the cooler to be as clean.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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What the hey.....you guys are trashing my thread....anodizing now.....holy smokes!!!
John
"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner |
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Guilty! But that's easily fixed. Let's see, the radiator goes where? The anodizing idea could go with it or to Big Blue's thread as I'm gonna paint the oil cooler. What else?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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