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Last chance for success

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Klala

Last chance for success

Hey everyone 👋

I’m new to the forum and unfortunately on my last nerve with this project I picked up. Originally it was not supposed to be a daily driver but life happened and it ended up being my only vehicle.

Let me introduce Princess Diana:

1982 F350 4spd manual, 351 Windsor, dually

Aka frankentruck.

When I picked her up she had the jankiest drivetrain, knowing full well I would have to replace it, about 3 weeks the old backyard welded one finally snapped. I have been working with a shop to get a custom manufactured shaft that fits. While in the process of this I realize the drivetrain is not the correct one for this truck. It just so happens that the total drivetrain is from what looks like a long bed f150.

Needless to say the driveshaft had to be perfectly fit to this weird truck. After two adjustments I was able to get everything settled in their happy home.

It was time to test drive er. I’ll admit I have a hard time reaching the clutch all the way, this truck was not built for someone under 5’8” and I fall short… literally. When turning around (luckily in my driveway) I felt the truck lurch, slam and stall. The driveshaft had disconnected yet again.

This last time I was under there I noticed there is a broken piece from the yoke and I’m not sure if this is the cause of the shaft disconnecting. How reasonable is it to replace the yoke?

I’m understandably frustrated and mostly confused how to even go forward. I’ve gotten to the point that I think this project is bigger than me! I’ve considered selling the truck, parting the truck, and obviously fixing the truck. But can’t decide.

I’d love to hear some suggestions and advice from y’all. Could it have disconnected because it was misaligned? Is my driveshaft too “tight”? Am I the problem? (Yes😂)

Gary Lewis

Re: Last chance for success

Administrator

I'm laughing and crying at the same time. "I fall short - literally. Am I the problem? (Yes😂)"

A wise man once said "A man's got to know his limitations", and it appears to me that you are questioning yours. And that is wise.

But we will happily help you work through this if you have the time. Let's take things one at a time. Post a pic of what's broken on the yoke. Yokes can be replaced, so maybe that's the place to start?

And, see the page at Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's for how to post pics.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Klala

Re: Last chance for success

Thanks Gary, it’s been a wild time with her in the 8 short weeks I’ve had her.

Here’s said yoke:

Gary Lewis

Re: Last chance for success

Administrator

I'm not seeing anything broken. What am I missing?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Klala

Re: Last chance for success

In reply to this post by Klala

Here’s the other side for comparison, there is a small tab in the second side. The tab in the first picture has been shared off.

Gary Lewis

Re: Last chance for success

Administrator

I see what you are saying. The tab is there to ensure the bearing cap of the u-joint can't come out of the yoke. But if I remember correctly the bearing cap sits in a recess so regardless of the tab it cannot come out if properly installed. Is there a recess that the cap sits into?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

85lebaront2

Re: Last chance for success

Administrator

Gary, that looks like it is the rear axle yoke, which at least isn't too terrible to replace. It should be a Dana axle on a 1982. Maybe a U-joint with internal retaining snap rings would at least keep them in place.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

Klala

Re: Last chance for success

The “not fun to change” part is the part that trips me up.

I don’t have the knowledge to necessarily do this 😬

Klala

Re: Last chance for success

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

I wouldn’t say it’s a recess, the tan is the only real way, besides the bolts, that I can see that the caps will stay put.

When the shaft disconnected the bolt cap did come off. That is mainly why I’m thinking it’s from the tab?

Gary Lewis

Re: Last chance for success

Administrator

Can you show us a closeup of the yoke from directly ahead of it?

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

FuzzFace2

Re: Last chance for success

I have only seen external (tab)
or
Internal that uses a snap ring.
I have never seen one that uses both.

Now if you cant get a new one to replace it here is what I might do.
If you have a welder weld a "tab" back in place.
You would need to use a Dremal to finish the tab so the caps fit between them to hold the cap.

Because the tab is not there and it is not made for the snap ring inside I would not drive it with out something to hold the cap.

With that said and if you dont have a welder and the truck is not a 4x4, yes you can drive it in 4x4 if the transfer case also has a bolt in Ujoint.

If a slip joint dont worry just yet.
How far to the welder?
I would take a large hose clamp and put it around the Ujoint after it is bolted in to hold the cap in place till the tab is welded back in place.
Yes it may vibrate a little but if you keep the speed down and maybe put another clamp with the screw on the other side of the shaft it may balance out to get to the welder.

Yes I am too good for Road Kill

Dave ----

Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100

Klala

Re: Last chance for success

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Gary Lewis

Re: Last chance for success

Administrator

Thanks for the pics. Unfortunately I can't tell much from them, even blow up on my computer.

So I pulled out a spare yoke I have. It is from a transfer case not a rear axle, but may be representative. And there is no recess on it like I was expecting. Just the tang. So if yours is like that and the tang is gone it is not going to work and the yoke will have to be replaced or repaired.

Unfortunately replacing a yoke on an axle is not easy. So you might consider the repair approach that Dave/Fuzzface2 laid out.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

FuzzFace2

Re: Last chance for success

I dont think replacing it is all that hard once you break loose the nut.

I would mark the nut and the pinion so the nut can go back to were it was before you started.
Tank the nut off and pull off the yoke.

Put a little oil / grease where the seal runs before you slip it back on the pinion.
Dose the FSM say to use any sealer on it so gear oil dose not leak out?
Slip the yoke back on and the nut.
You should be able to feel when it is tight then just line up the mark you made and you should be good.

Yes I know the FSM may want you to get a new crush collar and use a inch pound wench to check preload on the pinion, wheels off but when you dont have all this fancy stuff you do what you got to do LOL

And yes I know there is difference on preload for new & used bearings.
Did I say something about Road Kill

Dave ----

AmericanSavage

Re: Last chance for success

In reply to this post by Klala

Rare color—Light Sand Ford Called it even into 1982. I repainted mine that color.

I am 5’6” and the bench has to be almost all the way forward for me, but, I can reach just fine.

1980 Ford XLT F350
400 Engine (rebuilt to 406)
Holley 2300 500 CFM manual Choke Carb
Under Restore (1st time)

Gary Lewis

Re: Last chance for success

Administrator

In reply to this post by FuzzFace2

The FSM sections for the rear axle are here: Documentation/Driveline/Rear Axle. But before figuring out what the FSM says we need to know what axle it is. An F350 would have a D60 or D70, but if it really is an F150 driveline it should be either an 8.8" or a 9".

And that makes a big difference. For instance, a Dana takes 250 - 270 ft-lbs of torque on the pinion nut. But a 9" is very different.

So if we are going down the replace-the-pinion road we need to ID the rear axle. And to do that we need some pictures - bigger pics.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile