Keeping Aluminum Looking New

I just recently installed an aluminum bodied master cylinder and will be installing a new alternator. I'm kind of a clean/neat freak and would like to maintain a nice new look on these aluminum items. I've looked at the web and there does not seem to be a consensus there, wondering if you gents may have some input?

If it's not polished just use Alumabrite.
It gets corrosion off window screens and stuff.
Truckers use the same sort of acid solution to keep trailers looking clean, but you don't need a 5gal.
pail for a master cylinder.

Light oil (NOT silicone!) will keep corrosion out of the pores at bay.
The same WD-40 you used on the electric connector is exactly what it was developed for.

Jim, I'm talking new parts such as my alternator right out of the box. Don't really need to clean anything, just protect from corrosion and the nasty look aluminum gets when it's weathered over time. Thanks buddy!    

I understand John.  

With the Mag-chloride brine they spread on the roads up here some corrosion is unavoidable (unless you don't drive in winter)

Oil gets into pores and if filled won't allow water.

Look up the history of the Rocket Chemical Company.
It's interesting to a rocket geek like me.

I would probably keep them clean if possible, although I have never cleaned mine...lol. My truck only goes out in the nice weather though, so it doesn't see any kind of daily driver type usage. All of our old toothbrushes go to my toolbox and they're great for cleaning stuff like a master cylinder.

PS: While on the topic of cast aluminum, I have refinished some of my other cast aluminum parts using cast aluminum engine paint:

https://www.napacanada.com/en/p/NPOCDE1650

I find this stuff to be outstanding! Paint everything with this stuff in cast aluminum or in the different versions of black, and so far it has been standing up quite nicely.

Here is my power steering bracket as it was when I bought the truck:



And here it is after I cleaned it up (wire wheel in my drill) and cast aluminum paint with a new pump:




I didn't take any pics, but I also painted my old 34 year old alternator (now 37 I guess). Just wire wheeled it, and spray painted and it looked like a million bucks.

Here is my aluminum cased 5spd before and after:




Anyway...sorry for the long thread. I haven't really put much effort into keeping new aluminum clean, but I've spent a lot of hours making old cast aluminum look new again.

Cory, you've got a good plan!  

Keeping oxygen from reacting with the aluminum is the key.

Gary's 'Silver Lining's powdercoat looks great!
For parts that can't take the heat (or those of us without the facility) aluminum engine paint is much better than clearcoat. AMHIK.  

Ha! Notice I even said wire wheel and not sand blast? My method is just a quick and dirty way to make a scuzzy old part look like new. The engine paint dries quick and lasts well. It double the price of a regular spray bomb, but worth it.

I've got an electric toothbrush but I'm thinking hard about upgrading and relegating this one to cleaning things.
Like the hard to reach grout behind the faucet and that damned carb bowl from last week.  💡

Yeah Corey, I used that same cast aluminum on my intake manifold and, as you did, on my power steering bracket. I'd use it on my alternator too but I'm not about to take it apart to paint it. Was wondering if Fluid Film would address it? Basically just wipe it on. Man, that stuff is great on steel parts and bolts. I've wire brushed some bolts and stuck them in a container overnight, wiped them off and installed them. No rust yet.  

Don't shy away from painting your alternator, John.
Just mask off the front shaft and the regulator/brush holder on the back.

Also be aware that it grounds through the case, so you might want a star washer that can get through the paint and get a good ground.

Most 3G alternators have an unused threaded boss on the rear.
This can take a ground wire directly to where the battery negative bolts to the block, if you like.

Good points, Jim. I'll may spray bomb the sucker....lol! Thanks!

Sounds like another reason for you to get into powder coating
I've never attempted to take one of the newer ones apart or googled how to rebuild them but the stock master cylinder is a snap. Apples and oranges perhaps...

I haven't used the paint you guys have mentioned but have used Eastwoods booster paint and their cast aluminum paint. Happy with both.

That’s funny, my first thought was prep, primer and paint. Works on aircraft.

I thought you wanted pretty aluminum!

Machspeed wrote

Was wondering if Fluid Film would address it? Basically just wipe it on. Man, that stuff is great on steel parts and bolts. I've wire brushed some bolts and stuck them in a container overnight, wiped them off and installed them. No rust yet.

I'm a big fan of Fluid Film as well, and it certainly wouldn't hurt to wipe it on. I will probably do the same.

Here is the aluminum master cylinder out of the 1995 F150 that I junked for the frame for my 1980 F150. It appears to have been fairly well preserved under all that gunk. I just cleaned it up last night.




It seems to be in OK condition for being 26 years old. Piston cups and bore seem to be OK. It was pretty dirty though, inside and out. Would I be crazy to assemble it and use it as it is, or should I just buy a new one and be done with it? Comments good or bad?

Use it as it is since the pistons and bore are good.  Might see if the plastic will stand up to brake cleaner and clean the inside of the reservoir.

Gary Lewis wrote

Use it as it is since the pistons and bore are good.  Might see if the plastic will stand up to brake cleaner and clean the inside of the reservoir.

Would there be any issue with cleaning the reservoir out with water and degreaser, as long as I let it dry out well?

Glycol fluids are more like antifreeze than they are like oil.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Glycol fluids are more like antifreeze than they are like oil.

So, you are saying not to use water and a degreaser?  Would brake cleaner be the thing to use since it is designed to clean brake parts?

Brake cleaner is NOT to remove brake fluid, it's to remove grease and oils from surfaces that you handle, before that grease/oil contaminates the friction material.

There are plenty of YouTube or other online tutorials for cleaning your coolant overflow reservoir.
The same sort of peroxide-surfactant combinations will work in the poly brake reservoirs.

Jim - I've watched several videos and this is the only one that might be using a peroxide. Is this sorta what you mean? Do you know of a better one?