Just arrived, new member - long time 'Bible' reader...

the 1984 F150 RWD 5.8l Auto was my 3rd Ford and first non-running vehicle acquisition, towed to the carport in 2015.   Connected a fuel line to one working tank, rebuilt the Motorcraft/Holley carb, changed the fluids and swapped the tires from square to round, started right up and drove it to the end of the alley, that's when the I found out I needed to replace the brake master cylinder!  after doing that it would start, run & drive just fine but now after trying to eliminate a 'hot flood' symptom I have it messed up good!  Hope to get some good suggestions on what to try and what not to try...

nice to be among y'all,

3WVN



Been working in Ford Truck Adoption for 10 years...

Welcome!

Welcome!  Glad you joined.

Where's home?  I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we could add you if we had a city & state or zip.

Welcome!  

Are you sure it's flooded?
So, if you hold the pedal down 3/4 and crank, it eventually clears and starts?

thanks for asking!  the symptom was in the hot summer truck would start from cold very reliably then we would drive across town, if we stopped for 1-2mins it would restart normal but if we stopped for 5mins or so it would crank and crank and not fire up.  wait 15mins and it would start but reluctantly and we would have to pump the accelerator.  Sometimes pumping the accelerator like mad would get it to start sooner, like if we were on break from work and had to get back straight away sometimes rapid constant pumping on the gas pedal would get it to start but that was silly and we parked the truck for months after not being able to adjust the carb to eliminate it.  somebody called this 'hot flood' but I thought it was no fuel in the carb? evaporated empty?  anyway, all the adjustments made things worse (ie: not starting cold, not idling, backfires, etc.).  Only the settings for the carb after following the rebuild instructions worked really well (started, idled, choke opened, etc on the first try) but after adjusting all the possible adjustments we never got it back to that state again.

So you rebuilt the (2150, I'm assuming?) and other than this condition it was working well, but you can't get it back to the baseline settings of the instructions?

Heat soak does indeed happen. Usually if carburetor related it causes fuel to boil over into the intake flooding the engine.  

Do you have a stock air cleaner, and are the bowl vents connected to a charcoal canister?
Does it smell heavily of fuel before you attempt to restart?

If you were to park it and open the hood would it still fail to start after five minutes of sitting?
Does the engine even attempt to catch while cranking?

I'm wondering if it is a heat related ignition failure...
Just the act of cranking will cause the fan to blow some cooler air into the engine bay.

That's why I ask if opening the hood when you shut it off eliminates the problem.

IIRC this original 1984 has the 4180C holley made carb.  original air
filter setup is still present but I don't know about any of the connections
to the carb; I just know that all the hoses that were there look original
and there is one that goes down to one of two black boxes (not sure which
one because there are 5-6 hoses that converge there with check valves,
sensors & tees) ; one black box is below the smog pump and the other that
is mounted kinda below the battery on it's own bracket.  there is also a
capped fitting at the front of the carb just above the baseplate, looks
like an original cap (blue color).  also I have never tested the 'hood open' idea and never noticed a heavy fuel smell but it was over a year ago that I was going through this.  I think it would start fine if I put some fuel down the carb when this was happening, but only tried that once because of how much heat I thought could be around there in the summer/hot engine.

On Fri, Apr 30, 2021 at 1:44 AM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum]
<ml+s12971n95676h72@n8.nabble.com> wrote:

> So you rebuilt the (2150, I'm assuming?) and other than this condition it
> was working well, but you can't get it back to the baseline settings of the
> instructions?
>
> Heat soak does indeed happen. Usually if carburetor related it causes fuel
> to boil over into the intake flooding the engine.
>
> Do you have a stock air cleaner, and are the bowl vents connected to a
> charcoal canister?
> Does it smell heavily of fuel *before* you attempt to restart?
>
> If you were to park it and open the hood would it still fail to start
> after five minutes of sitting?
> Does the engine even attempt to catch while cranking?
>
> I'm wondering if it is a heat related ignition failure...
> Just the act of cranking will cause the fan to blow some cooler air into
> the engine bay.
>
> That's why I ask if opening the hood when you shut it off eliminates the
> problem.
>
>
>  Jim,
> Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS,
> desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
> Too much other stuff to mention.
>
>
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Ok, so you have the 351 HO, not the two barrel feedback version.

Those black boxes are the charcoal canisters for evaporative emissions.
They should also be connected to the fuel tanks vent valves.

If you're not smelling fuel it seems unlikely the carb is boiling over or the bowl or accelerator pump is leaking.
The notion that you need that much (multiple 30cc squirts) to get a warmed up engine started doesn't make much sense to me.

What does your tach show while cranking?
(ie, do you have spark?)