Holley 4160 carburetor compatibility questions

Do you see how this gasket reaches outside the rectangle that your 1" spacer is?

That's because the heated plenum floor crossover reaches up into the EGR spacer at this point.

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Is this what you're talking about? I was thinking of putting longer studs and setting the spacer on top of all of this.

That is it.

Why would you stack spacers?

Isn't that going to cause a lot of geometry problems with the throttle cable and stuff?

Do you have enough room to close the hood with the air cleaner in place?

The holley 4160 sits about 1/2" - 3/4" lower than the original carb, and I was going to use thinner gaskets than what was on there so the air cleaner should only go up about a 1/4".

Really?

I never noticed that with my old 4180, but you may be right.
Bill our resident carb expert would have the definite answer.

But then again we have different Holley's too.
I've got the one meant as a universal 600 CFM replacement for Ford's.
And I also have a 750 on the shelf that runs well too.

I just went out and measured its closer to a 1/2" but it had a quarter inch gasket before, so I think with an inch spacer on top of the EGR spacer with thin gaskets, it should be pretty close to a quarter inch rise for the air cleaner. I was looking at those Lokar universal throttle cables to account for the change in geometry

The thick gaskets are what insulates the carburetor from engine heat.

Some of us have gone so far as to make a reflective metal heat shield that extends below the float bowls to keep the fuel from boiling.

460's do make a lot of heat in the engine bay.

For mine I had planned on running a 1" divided phenolic spacer with the thick gasket atop the spacer to help insulate the carburetor.  But now that I have my eyes set on fuel injection the thick gasket isn't required anymore but I will retain the phenolic spacer since I already have it and I need a spacer to off set the lack of the EGR plate.

If hes not going to have the EGR plate as functional he probably wont need any kind of insulator with the lack of heat being generated in the plate itself by the EGR.

Thanks for everything, I really appreciate your time and knowledge. Would it be possible to keep the 1/4" gasket and stack a 1/2" phenolic spacer for insulation? I think that would put me back to pretty much the original height of the air cleaner and would be more insulating.

I think phenolic spacers help, but as pointed out the EGR adapter/spacer will get really hot.
That's why these things are cast iron, and not aluminum.

Anything you can do to keep the carb cooler is a positive step.

I'm also going to suggest you source a genuine Ford/Motorcraft gasket for between the intake and EGR spacer.
The revised gasket (E8TZ) is a pink rubbery material and they don't burn out nearly as quickly as the foil ones.

I used to have a bunch of these, but have shared them with forum members over the past decade.
I can get the part number in the morning.

She lives! Longer studs and a half inch phenolic spacer did the trick, and I was real careful not to damage the EGR gasket. I plugged off some of the stock vacuum lines and routed a hose straight from the vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum at the base of the carb. I also got one of those banjo fuel inlets. I jury rigged the throttle cable with some zip ties at the pedal to shorten it up. I got the floats and idle mixes adjusted, drove it around all day, and now its running the best it has since I've owned it. I'll have to make some permanent solutions to the vacuum lines and the throttle cable, but that will be a task for another day.

Congrat's!!!!  

On the throttle cable, if the issue is too much slack before the throttle starts moving, I've cut the bracket in half, played with it until I got the right amount of slack, vice gripped it together, and then welded it up.

Glad you've got it running!  
Still odd that you seem to have too much slack. What do you find on the pedal end of the cable?

Just a note for posterity.
The correct EGR spacer gasket is E8TE-9447-AA

When I got my 86 it had a lot of slop in the pedal to the point where you were fighting the carpet. This was even after a PO had bent the top of the pedal out a bit to help. I don't have the problem anymore but changed too much to know why. If it was still a problem though I was going to find a brass sleeve that could be slid over the cable at the pedal end and then crimped enough to keep it there. This would kick the pedal up higher and eliminate the play. Again, never did it so just in theory.

I just bought one of those universal throttle cables and some return springs, one of these days I'll rig it up properly