Help On 3G Page
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In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Guys, I'm having a mental breakdown. I'm missing something that should be intuitively obvious to the casual observer. When we say we are keeping C610 but then say "the alternator side of C610 is pretty useless with a 3G" I get lost.
I was assuming we are keeping both sides of C610, but are cutting the wires as shown below. Right? 
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
You're right, even though I put arrows I wasn't thinking directional from positive. I've updated the post although the Yellow/Battery is still backwards
 The original reason for the 60A was just a matter of replacing one form of protection with another and not removing any protection. The quick to follow second reason is that it is nice to leave everything hooked up but just remove the fuse to interrupt power to the cab when doing electrical work. I prefer it to having a loose ring terminal. At this stage in the rebuild, disconnecting the fuses happens fairly often. It would be interesting to do a voltage comparison. Honestly I don't recall what rocketman set my voltmeter values to so I wouldn't know if it was off 
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio |
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In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
I think it must be time for me to go to bed as I'm dense. I'm not getting it. And I'm not trying to be difficult, although I probably am being difficult. We have two halves of a plug and w/o both halves there's nothing to connect to. And I don't understand "far side" vs "near side". (Actually I did get Far Side most often, but not tonight.  )
So, is this right? Both sides of C610 are still there and we have leads coming out to connect to. 
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Ok, I see and that was actually how I had it originally laid out back before the rebuild started:
 Since the two wires are going to an isolated fuse in my ssVEC it would be easy to plug them into relay terminals instead. So far my voltmeter has stayed pretty constant but I'll see about adding all the load I can and testing the difference. My suggestion in the official doc would be recommending the relay. While all the add-on voltmeters I've used (cheap) just hook into a key-on circuit we might as well go with the unquestionably accurate approach. I didn't realize the HO had it this way. Don't think I've ever looked at those diagrams.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio |
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In reply to this post by ArdWrknTrk
Jim - I'm sorry for the server response. As you know, I have a sys admin supposedly working on our new home. Please don't go away. As for the red lines, I think I see what you are saying on their placement with respect to the ammeter. They were on the wrong side of C610. They all have to be on the same side of the connector, meaning either the "cab side" or the "alternator side". And I had them mixed, but have changed that in the schematic below. However, I'm not sure I understand "Don't cut anything... just unplug 610 and be done." Does that mean tap into the circuits ahead of C610, but leave the cab half of C610 for future use? Also like shown below? Scott - I've seen my cab voltage change significantly with load, which is why I wanted my voltmeter to read battery voltage, and even then I can see the effect of large load changes. But I can also see that many people might want to do it your way since it is so much easier, so have no problem presenting both approaches and explaining the differences. 
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Was curious so did some measurements of the yellow wire on my spare harness at lunch. Not sure anything will help in this thread but if there is something I can provide from this as it is all un-taped and easily accessible, let me know.
  Very rough/ballpark measurements: From C610 to the passenger side firewall grommet = 3' Grommet to splice S208 = 6' S208 to ign switch = 2' 4" Splice to fuse box = 1' 8" Splice to Aux Battery C232 - 2' 6"
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6 'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio |
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Interesting, Scott. Would it be helpful to put those on here?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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