Heavy Duty Power Steering?

Hi everyone,

Just wondering what brand/types everyone is using for their power steering pump and steering boxes.

Mine is leaking (location of leak TBD) and as I'm running 33" all terrains, I was thinking about just putting in a heavy duty steering box and if needed, steering pump.

Any recommendations are appreciated in advance.

Thanks.

There are pump options other than what came stock in the Bullnose afaik, but I just bought a new one on Rockauto and swapped over my old pulley. It has been working fine what little I used it.

For the steering box itself, I ordered a RedHead Gear, but have not installed it yet.

https://redheadsteeringgears.com/

I think Redhead and Blue Top are your two main options for steering gears that are better than stock and stock (reman) replacements.

Cory/Rembrant is right - there are essentially two options for a good steering box - Readhead or Blue Top.

The original box used the cast iron case as a bearing on the front end of the shaft.  They get worn there, but when rebuilt only those two outfits do something about it.  They bore the box out and put a real bearing in there, so the box is better than new.

As for the P/S pump, there are two options - the original Ford C2 pump or the Saginaw as used on the vans.  The Sag is the better pump, doesn't whine, and doesn't puke fluid all over if you turn the wheel with the engine off.  But you'll have to source a complete pump and bracket system from a van to make it work as they mount differently than the C2 pumps.

Ok, thanks guys.

I'll start doing some more research online.

Appreciate it!

Rembrandt - is this the one?

https://redheadsteeringgears.com/product/1980-97-ford-f-series-with-2-bolt-top-cover/

.. and do you know if it is it bolt-in or are mods needed?

Also, given back-yard tools and know-how, how long should this job take?

Quarterwave wrote

Rembrandt - is this the one?

https://redheadsteeringgears.com/product/1980-97-ford-f-series-with-2-bolt-top-cover/

.. and do you know if it is it bolt-in or are mods needed?

Also, given back-yard tools and know-how, how long should this job take?

It is a direct bolt-in replacement of the original. There are three long bolts through the frame.
You'll need a big socket to get the pitman arm nut off. 1 5/16" should do the trick.
You'll also need a pitman arm puller if you don't have one. Any auto parts shop should have one...or you can order online. I bought a cheap one and while it did work, it only lasted the one use (buggered up the threads on it).

Should be able to swap the box out in an hour or so by the time you break all the bolts loose, disconnect the hoses and steering shaft, etc. Refill with fluid and test. Maybe a little longer if you're taking your time.

Check the steering shaft for slop as well (while you're working in there).

Obviously you need to start with the part on your truck that is actually failed, but if you are running big tires (or even if you are not) I highly recommend the Saginaw conversion. The steering ease is really nice, and much quieter and less leaky as already pointed out. You need the bracket, pump with pulley, and high pressure hose since the fitting is different than the C2.

If you're pulling the pitman arm, I recommend doing that while the box is still on the truck.  If you're swapping the pump at the same time, I'd pull it 2nd; then swap the box; then put the new pump on, then reinstall the pitman arm & tie rods.

This shows the best style of puller:



The captions in this album explain how to swap in a Saginaw:



Refer to this TSB before starting the job:

Ok, thanks everyone.

Just a couple more questions...

1) Here is the parts list I have currently:

Power steering pump with bracket to suit my 351W: https://www.jegs.com/i/Borgeson/153/800330/10002/-1

Steering box: https://redheadsteeringgears.com/product/1980-97-ford-f-series-with-2-bolt-top-cover/

Pitman arm puller:
https://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-pitman-arm-puller-63684.html

... am I missing anything (aside from the large socket)?

Also, what send/return lines do I need? I bought one of each off RockAuto recently and the threaded nut on one of the flared tube ends was about two-thirds the size (smaller) than the current one on the truck.

These are old lines and rubber, so I figure I might as well get new lines while I'm at it.

Lastly, do I need to pull out the A/C compressor or can that stay in?

Any help is appreciated, as I'll probably do this one myself.

Gary - would you like me to take a bunch of pics when I do this? Perhaps make it a tutorial of installing a heavy duty steering box and the Econoline power steering pump for the website?

Quarterwave wrote

Also, what send/return lines do I need? I bought one of each off RockAuto recently and the threaded nut on one of the flared tube ends was about two-thirds the size (smaller) than the current one on the truck.

The nuts are two different sizes. The pressure line hex is probably 1/2", and the return line hex is more like 5/8". I bought both lines new from RockAuto myself.

Pressure line options here: (For stock power steering pump).

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1985,f-150,5.8l+351cid+v8,1121588,steering,power+steering+pressure+hose,7320

Return line options here:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1985,f-150,5.8l+351cid+v8,1121588,steering,power+steering+return+hose,7324

You'll see that the return lines are W/ cooler, or W/O cooler. Probably better to go with the cooler line. I installed a return line without the cooler as that is what my truck originally came with. However, when I do get around to installing my new RedHead steering gear this spring, I might throw a cooler line on there for what little they are worth.

Not sure what mods are needed for the pressure line with the Saginaw pump. Jon will know.

If you need new clamps to mount the return line on the frame, just get some cushion clamps. Your originals may be fine, but they rust and fall off up here in the land of salt;). Available everywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/Cushion-Clamps-pack-25/dp/B00NV8YXHE

Rembrant wrote

Not sure what mods are needed for the pressure line with the Saginaw pump. Jon will know.

You need the high pressure line from an Econoline van. The gear box may sit a little differently in relation to the engine, but you should be able to message it a bit and make it work. Mine was less straight forward because I also converted to hydroboost brakes... but if you are keeping vacuum boost one of these should be just fine:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1985,e-150,5.8l+351cid+v8,1111251,steering,power+steering+pressure+hose,7320

The return line cooling tube in your truck is probably fine, I’d just replace the rubber hose section with by-the-foot stock from your local parts house.

Quarterwave wrote

Gary - would you like me to take a bunch of pics when I do this? Perhaps make it a tutorial of installing a heavy duty steering box and the Econoline power steering pump for the website?

Yes, please!  

Ford F834 wrote

Rembrant wrote

Not sure what mods are needed for the pressure line with the Saginaw pump. Jon will know.

You need the high pressure line from an Econoline van. The gear box may sit a little differently in relation to the engine, but you should be able to message it a bit and make it work. Mine was less straight forward because I also converted to hydroboost brakes... but if you are keeping vacuum boost one of these should be just fine:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1985,e-150,5.8l+351cid+v8,1111251,steering,power+steering+pressure+hose,7320

The return line cooling tube in your truck is probably fine, I’d just replace the rubber hose section with by-the-foot stock from your local parts house.

Curious as to where or what you got the hydroboost from?

Hydroboost from a 1988-1996 F-Superduty (F450) is a direct bolt on. All the parts are readily available except the pedal. A F250/350 HD vacuum pedal is “acceptable” but for the right feel you need the F450 one or modify the pin. The hydroboost from later Superduty F250’s & F350’s can be made to work, I’m told, but need modifications. I prefer the direct bolt on of the earlier ones... and the brakes are AWESOME!!! 😎

Very cool! Thanks!

Our Suburban has hydroboost.

I can't find the thread where we discussed this a few weeks ago, but this thread's topic is close enough:

Steve83 wrote

I can't find the thread where we discussed this a few weeks ago, but this thread's topic is close enough:

It was in one of my threads (I think) because I was planning on buying a Borgeson shaft to go with my new RedHead steering gear. I have since gotten in contact with a guy that is parting out a couple 87-91 trucks, and he said he'd sell me one of the shafts for $30 bucks. I'm going to grab one or both of the cowl panels as well. The prices are cheap enough, it's just a matter of waiting for him to remove the stuff I guess.

Is the rag joint a replaceable item on the 87-91 shafts?

I have the 1990 shaft from Huck and plan to use it on Dad's truck.  Good upgrade.  (Once I get the pitman arm off, and a few hundred other things done.)

Steve83 wrote

If you're pulling the pitman arm, I recommend doing that while the box is still on the truck.  If you're swapping the pump at the same time, I'd pull it 2nd; then swap the box; then put the new pump on, then reinstall the pitman arm & tie rods.

This shows the best style of puller:

I'm not disputing that the Snap-on puller is the better puller, but I got the job done with this combo this morning.  However, I did have to change to a bigger air hose and a connection closer to the compressor to get enough torque to do it.  And, I wore gloves and safety glasses as I really expected that puller to explode.  It didn't and the arm finally came off.  

I have both the snap-on and KD style, either seems to work. Sometimes the big one will not work in place.