I would like to have the B pillar trim, this solves a number of wants for me, but I understand this is part of the trim level for trucks that can with a headliner.
Is it possible to put the headliner trim set on a non headliner cab?
As far as I know, the answer is yes, but somebody else will have to confirm. I think the only issue is that you'd have to drill all of the screw holes. I believe the screws used on the plastic trim pieces are all self-tappers, so if there's no trim, there are also no holes. Not a big deal.
I looked at doing this also, but didn't look very far into it. There was a blue Bullnose that showed up at the junkyard with the headliner trim cab. Problem was, the roof was partially crushed...so not only were some of the parts damaged, they were also difficult to access. I scrapped the idea very quickly...lol.
My cab is bare bones, like a tin can inside.
We'll have to wait for one of the experts to chime in on the topic.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/GT40 heads, BBK headers, Holley 4bbl, XE256H Comp Cam, M5R2 5spd swap, Magnaflow full duals. Fresh Medium Blue Metallic in August 2019.
I added all of the trim to my old F150. As said, most of the trim is held on with self tapping screws. HOWEVER, the pieces that go above the doors use the same type of clips that the front headliner molding uses, and those require a couple of long rectangular holes be drilled into the cab. Whether you can just drill holes in the trim and use self tappers is beyond me, as I chose to do it the factory way.
The B-pillar trim uses some longer screws, with some plastic blocks as spacers. Make sure you get the plastic blocks if they're in the donor truck.
The biggest thing is to just make sure everything lines up together before you start drilling holes or using self tappers.
1980/86/90 Ford F350 4x4 ENG?/NP435/D60-Sterling
2003 Ford Ranger V6/M5OD/8.8
"I didn't choose the bullnose life, the bullnose life chose me."
The plan as of now is yes. When I put up the highliner whether or not I have the full trim package I planned on putting some kill mat on the roof. I have 80 mil, and am not sure if that is going to be two thick for it or not. So the plan was to install it with some small pieces in different areas to see how it affected the fit. I am thinking where the head liner has the styling where sections of the headliner are lower, there will be dead space behind it, this would be the areas to put the kill mat for the most flush fit (Highlighted in red).
I'm sure you know this, but sound deadening works best in the middle of an unsupported panel. In other words, it won't do much if applied to a stiff piece like where there's a crease as that part isn't going to flex. And, if I remember correctly, there are creases and recesses in the inner panels of the roof. So I'd target the middle of those recesses.
But, I don't think the roof recesses match up with the recesses on that insert. (I'm too lazy to go look at Big Blue to see as he's in the shop and I'm snug and warm in the house.) I'd compare the two to see for sure, but I think you can lay mat into the recesses with abandon w/o causing any fitment problems with the insert.
I guess we will see when I get it. The red circled parts sit lower to the driver than the parts in between. Im thinking the in between bits are flush to the ceiling and the "pads" are hollow and not flush to the ceiling so some 80mil kill mat should fill that void.