Hand Throttle For Big Blue

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Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Bob/Nothing Special has convinced me that a hand throttle would be helpful on our trip to Moab this summer.  And he suggested this Terraflex hand throttle kit.  I ordered it in and plan to start the installation after I get the clutch safety switch bypassed.  So stay tuned...
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

viven44
Assuming it will be helpful in a scenario where both feet are occupied on brake/clutch, and one hand on steering. But wouldn't this soften the need for the clutch no-safety ?
Vivek

- 'Big Blue 2WD' - 1984 F350 RWD 460/C6
- 1978 Bronco with the heart of a 1986 F250 Bullnose - under restoration
- "Bonded Bronco" -1985 Bronco - 302 4-speed fuel injected, Hibernating future project
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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Nothing Special
It definitely softens the need.  But of the two mods I'd put the hand throttle well ahead of the clutch safety bypass.  What I told Gary about the hand throttle is "A hand throttle isn't a necessity, but after 'wheeling with one I'll never 'wheel without one", while what I said about the clutch switch bypass was "I'll stop short of recommending this, but I'll offer it for your consideration".

But they really do address different issues.  The hand throttle helps in starting on a hill, regardless of why you stopped.  It's not at all uncommon to pick a line that didn't work the first time and have to back off and try again.  Generally the engine didn't die so restarting isn't the issue.  A hand throttle also is easier to hold steady than a foot pedal as you bounce over rocks.  I use it quite a bit to set the idle higher to let the truck chug over obstacles.

Meanwhile the main use of the clutch switch bypass is to keep you from rolling back when you are restarting the engine.  With a manual trans having the engine hold the vehicle you need to get on the brakes HARD before pushing in the clutch.  With power brakes (especially hydroboost which is even weaker without the engine running) that's even harder.  It's very uncommon for a driver to actually keep the truck from rolling backward, at least a little.  And when it does it's usually pretty abrupt.  That kind of sudden movement can really bring yelps out of passengers!
Bob
Sorry, no '80 - '86 Ford trucks
"Oswald": 1997 F-250HD crew cab short box, 460, E4OD, 4.10 gears
"Pluto": 1971 Bronco, 302, NV3550 5 speed, Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case, 33" tires
"the motorhome": 2015 E-450-based 28' class C motorhome, 6.8L V-10
"the Dodge": 2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7L Cummins
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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Well said, Bob.  Exactly as I explained it to Janey.

I'm hoping that one of my spare speed control units has one of the beaded chains I can use to attach the hand throttle's linkage to the existing linkage.  That seems the cleanest way to connect as then it can cause a bind if pushed in too far.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

viven44
In reply to this post by Nothing Special
Thanks for the explanation. Agreed this mod looks like it's more likely to be used.
Vivek

- 'Big Blue 2WD' - 1984 F350 RWD 460/C6
- 1978 Bronco with the heart of a 1986 F250 Bullnose - under restoration
- "Bonded Bronco" -1985 Bronco - 302 4-speed fuel injected, Hibernating future project
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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Ok, it is time to actually start on this project.  And the first thing I'm told to do is to remove the knob off the shift lever.  But I don't know how to do that, so I'm going to tag Shaun/salans7 'cause I think he knows.

Having said that, if it isn't easy then I'll slit the bushing they provide and slip it on that way.

Here's the knob and it is on a BW1345:

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Nothing Special
Just food for thought, but I've usually had the hand throttle on the transmission shift lever.  The exception to that was when I first was building Pluto I put it on the transfer case shift lever.  I had it there for several years, but decided that it was just a little too far out of reach for my preference, so I ended up moving it back to the trans shifter.
Bob
Sorry, no '80 - '86 Ford trucks
"Oswald": 1997 F-250HD crew cab short box, 460, E4OD, 4.10 gears
"Pluto": 1971 Bronco, 302, NV3550 5 speed, Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case, 33" tires
"the motorhome": 2015 E-450-based 28' class C motorhome, 6.8L V-10
"the Dodge": 2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7L Cummins
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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Bob - How's Lesley?

As for being closer, on Big Blue the t-case shift lever is closer.  And since there's far less movement of it than the shift lever I'm thinking that the t-case lever would be the best place to put the hand lever.  Yes?

But I'm wondering about how/where to run the cable.  The miserable instructions say to take it through the firewall, but why not go down the lever, through the boot, and up over the transmission and the back of the engine to the throttle body?  No holes to drill.

And, speaking of throttle body, here's a mockup of how I plan to make the connection.  The bottom cable is a spare throttle cable and the one that rides piggyback on it is a spare from the speed control.  I've drilled the Nylon bracket that attaches to the throttle cable and run the bead chain from a Bullnose speed control through that hole.  The inner cable, having come through the outer cable above, will wrap through the connector on the end and that aluminum ferrule will be crimped to hold it in place.  And the connector on the end will let me take the slack out.

All of that is to ensure there's no binding of the throttle when not using the hand throttle.  Does that make sense?  Better ideas, anyone?  


Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Nothing Special
The transfer case lever is farther to the left, so it's closer in that respect.  But typically is a shorter lever and you have to bend down to reach it, while the trans shifter falls right into your hand.  Maybe "closer" wasn't the right word.  I like having it on the stick that I reach for all the time, so muscle memory helps me find it quickly and easily.

And yes, running the cable down the lever and through the boot seems like the right way to do it to me.  Not only no holes to drill, but you don't need to leave a big loop of cable exposed in the cab so the stick can move.  Just dress the cable down the stick and leave a little slack at the bottom, under the boot.

For hooking it up to the throttle body, most everything I comprehend looks good.  What I don't quite get is how much adjustment you'll have.  Adjusting it isn't that critical.  If it's too tight it's bad as the throttle won't close all the way.  But if it's too loose you just won't be able to open the throttle as far.  I've found I can only go about 45 mph if I'm using my hand throttle in place of the foot feed.  While it might be nice to have more throttle available by hand I've never felt it was really lacking.

the "most everything" comes from seeing the big open loop of cable you have between the ferrule and the ball chain.  That's going to be a soft spring that you need to stretch out to get the throttle to open.  I might just put the ferrule over the cable right as it comes through the end of the ball chain rather than put a loop in it.  That might put more stress on the ferrule so it might pull off easier.  But it will keep the system a lot stiffer.

(I was thinking I had a picture that shows where I have the hand throttle, but this is the best I could find.  It sort of shows up at the bottom of the picture.)
Bob
Sorry, no '80 - '86 Ford trucks
"Oswald": 1997 F-250HD crew cab short box, 460, E4OD, 4.10 gears
"Pluto": 1971 Bronco, 302, NV3550 5 speed, Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case, 33" tires
"the motorhome": 2015 E-450-based 28' class C motorhome, 6.8L V-10
"the Dodge": 2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7L Cummins
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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Ok, "closer" threw me off, but I see what you are saying about muscle memory.  However the ZF boot is actually two boots that fit very tightly, so I'm not sure I want to take the cable down through that.  

As for that loop, I left it loose as I don't want to kink it since it might not go through the outer covering then.  But yes, the aluminum ferrule will go right near the bead connector.  I tried to put the ferrule in the bead connector but it won't go and, as you said, that would put more stress on it, so I'm thinking that a tight loop is the way to go.

Thinking about adjustment, my hope is the have just a little slack with the manual throttle all the way down, and it'll take some movement to raise the RPM.  The combination of the beaded chain and knurled adjustment you can see at the end of the outer sleeve should let me dial it in.  But I have no idea how much I'll be able to raise it - hope it is enough.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Mid-morning report - it is ready under the hood.  Drilled the Nylon end for the speed control cable, found about the right place on the bracket for the knurled piece that the cable sheath goes into, drilled and tapped the bracket for that piece, and put the piece in - from the back so it is ready for the cable.

Obviously the chain is too long, but I can pull it out the front and clip it off as needed.  And I can use the knurled piece for fine tuning if that's needed by just loosening the lock nut.

Now it is time to start inside the cab...


Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Done!  And I quit giving it throttle at 3000 RPM, so I think it works.  

Lots of details to share in case someone is wanting to do this.  First, the bushing to go around the t-case shift lever.  Theirs has to be drilled out to get it over the lever, but my first attempt wasn't too productive so I cut a piece of 1/2" hose & split it.  Worked perfectly.



Next, I moved the hand throttle lever to max and wrapped the cable through the ferrule, bead connector, & again through the ferrule and crimped the ferrule with about 1/4" between it and the adjustment piece to ensure that won't limit the travel.  Then I cut off the excess cable.



Then I backed the hand throttle off to Min and took the slack out of the chain, left an extra bead, and cut the excess off.  And with the connector on there's enough slack that it doesn't interfere with the foot throttle.  In fact, the hand throttle doesn't start increasing the RPM until the lever is moved quite a ways, so I'm sure that another bead could be taken out.  However, since I can get to 3000 RPM I don't see a need to do that.

 

And, here are a couple of shots of the control.  I didn't cut any of the outer sheath off so I could relocate it pretty much anywhere if I don't like it there.



Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Nothing Special
Looks good!  We're getting there
Bob
Sorry, no '80 - '86 Ford trucks
"Oswald": 1997 F-250HD crew cab short box, 460, E4OD, 4.10 gears
"Pluto": 1971 Bronco, 302, NV3550 5 speed, Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case, 33" tires
"the motorhome": 2015 E-450-based 28' class C motorhome, 6.8L V-10
"the Dodge": 2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7L Cummins
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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Yes, we are!  

Unless you come up with something else () I think the mod's to the truck are done.  There may be an adjustment or two, but now I think it is time to start checking on what tools, recovery gear, etc I have in the truck.

Janey and I are taking it to SW OK next Thursday and Friday to drive the Sugar Creek Loop, eat at White Dog Hill restaurant, and then visit the outlet mall in OKC on the way home.  It'll be a good shakedown run for the truck after going through the steering, adding the clutch switch bypass and hand throttle, and tightening the power steering connections.

Oh yes, I have to also turn the Ewissions light off.  It came on, yet again, while putt putting around moving the trailer.  I'm sure it is P1506, meaning the engine RPM was higher than the ECU wanted it to be, which usually happens when I'm slowing down in a low gear and the inertia keeps spinning the engine.  Haven't figured out how to prevent that.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Nothing Special
My only other suggestion it what you're already doing.  Drive it!  That's the best way to reduce the possibility of something stranding you on the trail!
Bob
Sorry, no '80 - '86 Ford trucks
"Oswald": 1997 F-250HD crew cab short box, 460, E4OD, 4.10 gears
"Pluto": 1971 Bronco, 302, NV3550 5 speed, Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case, 33" tires
"the motorhome": 2015 E-450-based 28' class C motorhome, 6.8L V-10
"the Dodge": 2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7L Cummins
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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Gary Lewis
Administrator
We took it to Ponca City and back three weeks ago for ~200 miles.  Two weeks ago Steve/FoxFord33 and I took it to Stillwater and back to get that Mountaineer that he called an Explorer - again 200+ miles pulling the trailer.  (The difference is significant in that the Merc came as AWD and the Ford didn't.)  And next week's jaunt will push 500 miles.  I think we might qualify for "driving it".  

But if that doesn't qualify I'll bet the ~1000 miles to Moab surely will.  We plan to take the "middle" route, meaning out the Oklahoma panhandle to Clayton, NM for 433 miles and 7 hours and 10 minutes.  The next day will be through Raton to Durango, which is 362 miles and 6 hours and 13 minutes, although we'll stop in Raton at the quilt shop. Then from Durango it is 158 miles and 2 hours & 45 minutes to Moab.  So we hope to be there around lunch time.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Nothing Special
I think the only part of that route that I've ever been on is the last 54 miles on highway 191.  Bit it's all beautiful country out there, you really can't pick a bad route!

We'll be leaving a couple days ahead of you, going through Omaha, Denver and (I think) I-70 to Glenwood Springs before heading south to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.  We'll spend a day there, and then have a 3 - 4 hour drive to Moab on Sunday.  That ought to leave plenty of time on Sunday to set up camp and walk through town (although I don't think we'll be able to get a shake as the Moab Diner is closed on Sundays).
Bob
Sorry, no '80 - '86 Ford trucks
"Oswald": 1997 F-250HD crew cab short box, 460, E4OD, 4.10 gears
"Pluto": 1971 Bronco, 302, NV3550 5 speed, Atlas 4.3:1 transfer case, 33" tires
"the motorhome": 2015 E-450-based 28' class C motorhome, 6.8L V-10
"the Dodge": 2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7L Cummins
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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Gary Lewis
Administrator
You'll be north of us at Black Canyon.  My brother and I saw plenty of it when we went to Ouray with Big Blue a few years ago.  They had US 50 closed at one point and routed us through there on the way out.  But on the way back we got lucky and 50 was open again.

Let's plan to meet up Sunday afternoon in Moab.  If we can't get a shake maybe we can get something else.  

And yes, there isn't a bad route.  We aren't in a hurry so will enjoy the drive from Raton to Durango, up over Wolf Creek Pass.

Wolf Creek Pass
Way up on the Great Divide
Truckin' on down the other side

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

salans7
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Gary, it seems you were able to bypass removing the knob, but the only way I know to remove a splined shift knob is to heat it up to melt the glue holding it on. Sometimes you can get lucky in hot states since the high temperatures in the cab have long since melted the glue. The knobs down here tend to come right off without even trying.
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Re: Hand Throttle For Big Blue

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Thanks, Shaun.  I assumed it was splined and since pulling on it did nothing I decided to bypass that step.

The hose appears to be working fine and was just about the right size because the split has closed up.  But the ears of the clamp have closed up as well, so we are as tight as we are going to get.

If it slips I may pull it off and put a turn of friction tape on the shifter before placing the hose back on.  That will give it a bit more friction (can't come up with a better word), but I don't think I'll have to do that.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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