Ford dual tank silliness

Figured I might as well put up a new thread on this, as it's a common problem. So, I've been through the nightmare of the fuel tank selector valve on my truck. I've been through 2 replacement valves. The first lasted about a year (not being used much), the second lasted a week. Currently, I have a system using dual 3 port electric valves( standard fv1 IIRC). I'll try to get some pics Monday. The wiring is much simplified, and could be used with manual valves, and retain the function of switching the fuel gauge between tanks. All using the factory fuel tank selector switch in the climate control thing.

Bradley,
Believe me, I have walked this path and know the pitfalls.

Your '86 had the most 'updated' version of HFH.
the 6-port Pollak valve KIT  should be around $80 delivered from eBay.

Yeah sure... "updated"...  the older ones couldn't have been any worse! My point is that I've found a way to fuctionally separate the fuel gauge circuit from the selector valve circuit. Not completely, as they share a trigger. So, if I were to put manual valves in, all I'd have to do is remove the electric valves.

Ready for the zombie apocalypse???  

Some setups have the senders switched at the actual switch in the climate control.
You could find that p/n and just run the wires.....  💡

Well, I used the original 6-pole switch, and just ran an "in" and an "out". I'll explain later. I'll have to get some pics. Going to attempt to get it broken in this week.

You have a plan!

Good luck.  🤞

Interested to hear more on this dual valve approach. After dealing with multiple types of issues with the fuel selection process, the worst (a blocked overloaded pump getting fried) and second worst (front tank recirculating into rear and causing an overflow) I decided to go manual until I found something better. Check video below. Dead reliable but the only downside is needing to crawl underneath every so often to switch between tanks.

Fuel Selector Delete F250 F350 with 3-way brass valve
https://youtu.be/khSffspgPfI

This guy probably spent as much in valves and wiring as he would have spent on the proper tank selector from Polak.
About $80 market cost, $52 to me.

I can appreciate his approach, but re-inventing the wheel for the inconvenience of crawling under your truck every 160 miles (rain/sleet/sand/snow/midnight/daylight/whatever) is not appealing at all.

Maybe it's because I crawl under cars & trucks every day, in all weather?
I can't post the words that spring immediately to mind.  🤬

I'm having the same issue with an 86 f150. typical selector valve/res issue. tried a new one and a couple used "yard" parts.  still no good. my brother has just been using one tank. but right now, he is driving his dodge so that we may get to his ford this spring. or maybe he will wait till winter again.

Winter beaters like plow trucks can sit broken for 9 months, but come the first blizzard all of the sudden it's CRITICAL!  

Snowblowers fall in this "unique" category as well.

So far, I think I've solved the issue. I'm using two 3 port valves, that literally have only one connection, and ground themselves to the frame. Working good so far(truck hasn't been driven). Standard fv1 if I remember right.

Jim, trust me I do not enjoy crawling under the truck. You are correct I spent about $50. Can you send me more info about the selector from Polak (gas, electric fuel pumps, 1984 F350), I have been looking for a good selector!! This is only a stop gap solution. I burnt up a fuel pump because the stock selector wasn't letting fuel through and it was a pain and a half to replace the fuel pump so I just wanted something that got me back on the road that was not going to fail ever.

It's also completely unnecessary to mount the valves on the frame. I've seen pics of an old Cheb that had them on the transmission tunnel. The handles of the valves come through the floor, so all you have to do is reach down and turn them.

Thats interesting. That would make this solution a lot more appealing. Been striving to have a rig that is unbreakable, and if it broke I have a few spares in the cab to get me back on the road.

Gary doesn't have the 1984 EVTM up on the website so I cannot say absolutely which valve is best for you, but going from the '85 EVTM we can see the senders are switched at the valve rather than the switch, and the switch is DPDT.
Default is rear and the switch applies power all the time to the valve rather than being momentary (to drive the valve to the opposite stable position)

With the oil pressure cutoff controlling the pump motor relay pull in, and the inertia switch before the relay.
1985 has a separate tank selector relay rather than the actual switch providing power to the pumps.
Senders and pumps ALL come back to G701 which is behind the instrument panel by the radio.

Here's the schematics and the blurb on troubleshooting.







I'll find the right valve kit, with pigtail, and link it in a bit. (I'm under the truck today with a blown out knee)

Hope the above image shows but this is from the 1984 Factory manual. I don’t have an 84 EVTM either but the setup seems identical to the 85 based on your description. There is a separate fuel tank selector relay that is controlled by the in-cab Selection switch but the power to the actual pumps requires the inertia switch to be closed. The selector valve has an internal (relay/switch) setup to switch between sending units based on the input from the in-cab switch but doesn’t power the fuel pumps.

I would say this type of setup has kept me a bit uneasy as the fuel selector valve needs to be in the correct “plumbing position” while the corresponding pump is energized. Else it would lead to pump overloading and no-start.

Did they revise this setup in 1986 ?

If your senders are switched at the dash it's different than '85 but that's NOT what your book is showing.

I'm covered in gear oil and up to my 'butt' in alligators today.
I will definitely get you a part number and source when I calm down.  

Thanks for the diagram. It helps me figure out what you need

Just to confirm, on the 84, The senders ARE switched at the on-frame selector valve basically the “resistance number” from the sending units goes only through the on-frame selector valve (but the selector valve itself is powered by the in-cab switch to switch between front and rear sending units) so I think they seem to be the same.

Okay, I misread your post.
We're on the same page.
I need to go scrub up and find some differential parts.

Pollak 42-159p
6 port w/switch & pigtail.
3/8 supply, 5/16 return
For in-tank pumps up to 60psi.
Stable motor driven valve,
0.5A max @12V
Applications: Ford F series 1977-86 (87 for 351 HO and 7.5 w/ carburetor)
$79.91
Edit.  ***You don't need the switch but the kit is cheaper than ordering the valve and pigtail ala carte***

https://www.ase-supply.com/searchresults.asp?Search=Pollak+42159p&Submit=