Essential Diagnostic/Maintenance Tools

Hi everyone,

I am wondering if anyone has a listing of specific diagnostic/maintenance tools and whether they are worth it or not. I know there is some information in the "Garage/Shop/Tools" forum but it is relatively inactive so I figured a main post might make more sense so it gets seen. Feel free to move this if desired.

As I wait for my sheet metal from Tabco, I figured I could begin getting my engine tuned up a little bit. Being located in Canada, I'm not 100% sure what are good prices for tools, what are good or poor quality tools, and which tools make sense to invest in high quality vs buy cheap/bottom of the barrel. what sparked this question is that I'd like to start understanding my engine timing but timing lights seem a bit pricey. There is one on sale at Princess Auto with relatively poor reviews and I'm not sure whether it is worth it or not.

Listing of tools, prices, and links I am considering or have:

Timing Light - Princess Auto regular $80 clearance $32

Should this be a cheap item or is it worth spending more - suggestions greatly welcomed including specific products

Brake bleeder - Princess Auto sale <$20

Based on the sale price I got this for, I think it was worth it, otherwise I may have built my own one-man bleeder per Chris Fix

Compression tester - Princess Auto $32

I feel like I've been itching to do a compression test but don't have the equipment. Seems basic and like the equipment shouldn't be a big deal

Sparkle Tester - Princess Auto $10

For the price this just seems worth it for easy diagnosing/leaving in the truck

Vacuum Tester - Princess Auto $25

Seems kind of junky and bad reviews. Is it worth it to get one?

Inspection Camera - Princess Auto $110 but I got on sale around $40

Honestly seems unnecessary but it was a fun toy and not too expensive when it was on sale

Brake drum tools - do these make sense to buy?

Torque wrench - I've purchased a cheap $20 1/2 150 ft-lb but does it make sense to buy a nicer one for the lower range or is it not really necessary? Or would a cheap one for the 20-ish ft-lb range still be fine?

Jack and axle stands - Critical and not worth cheaping out on - I have 4 stands and a jack

Battery powered impact, socket sets, impact sets, ratchets, breaker bar, screwdrivers, torx, wrenches - all items I have already in basic sets or needs

That's a good start on some of the items I either have or am considering for basic engine/vehicle maintenance. Curious on anyone's thoughts on items I've listed or things I have missed. Always looking for a list of tools to watch for when they go on sale rather than buying when I need them at full price.

I can tell you I am not going to list out all the tools I call essential lol, but the thing that pops into mind is a battery tester.   The spark tester is something I've used a lot personally.  The only brake bleeder I've used is this one, and without shop air it isn't great.  I left mine on the other side of the country because I knew I would've have air anymore (or ever again most likely with how far electrics have come)

A good volt meter is essential.  I have the classic fluke 87 which does everything you need, but lately I've been using this amp clamp  that can use standard leads underneath and do all the basic things the bigger one can.  You don't need one this good, automotive electrical is piss easy and these trucks especially so.  12v is safe enough that you don't need a high end meter.  

I can keep going but I don't want to overwhelm you with information.  

I'll add that these vacuum testers cost more but are worth it to me.

The Mity Vac brand,

https://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-39522.html

I hadn't thought about a battery tester to be honest, I'll start tracking them for sales! The link you sent over seems to be broke for some reason but all good because they seem fairly basic in the sense that the brand might not matter.

Don't know how I forgot about the multimeter. I have a cheap $30 one that I have been using as well!

And don't worry about overwhelming me with the info, automotive work is new to me but I have a pretty decent set of hand and power tools for around the house stuff. I figure it would be nice to have almost a master list of some tools that everyone should own working on these trucks and begin rating them in groups of essentials vs nice-to-haves.

I somehow didn't even realize that my "brake bleed" kit was actually a vacuum tester as well.

This is the one I have from Princess Auto, which looks similar to the one you sent over. Got it on sale for around $20-$30 so sounds like I maybe don't even need the vacuum gauge I sent over!

yes, that looks like a good vacuum tester!

Even cheap inspection cameras are a godsend if you drop something where it doesn't belong. You can get by with normal hand tools for drum brakes and a small box-ended wrench will work better for spreading the springs anyway. There are tons of tips and tricks online for doing drum brakes. I would definitely get a smaller 3/8" torque wrench because torque wrenches can get very inaccurate at the low end of their range.

Gonna unleash my inner nerd. Cheap electrical meters tend to have accuracy and safety problems. It's not that important when working on an old car, but it's nice to know if you truly have the correct numbers. I would only trust a cheap meter as far as checking the presence of voltage, not the amount of voltage, and continuity testing (whether a circuit is open or closed). For most people that's enough. But if you're looking to upgrade, the Fluke 323 that 351Fun linked would be perfect for both automotive and home use. The amp clamp feature will give a lot of flexibility for troubleshooting and you can use it to attach the meter to things.

Something I would recommend thinking about further down the road is a Dremel rotary tool. They can do all sorts of stuff, but most importantly they can use cutoff discs. Don't buy one now, just think about it when you encounter a seized castle nut on a ball joint or something.

Periwinkle wrote

Brake drum tools - do these make sense to buy?

Torque wrench - I've purchased a cheap $20 1/2 150 ft-lb but does it make sense to buy a nicer one for the lower range or is it not really necessary? Or would a cheap one for the 20-ish ft-lb range still be fine?

I generally wouldn't tell anybody to go and buy any tools specifically for doing drum brakes...I've made it from about 15 until now (51) without them...with ONE exception. I found a Snap-On adjuster tool about 25 years ago and I do prefer it over using a flat blade screwdriver, which also works.

https://www.amazon.ca/Tools-287-Brake-Adjusting-Tool/dp/B0002TKCQQ/ref=asc_df_B0002TKCQQ/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459367643706&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13170945145466470165&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000096&hvtargid=pla-680972388445&psc=1

They're cheap and you can get them anywhere...Amazon, Canadian Tire, Princess Auto, etc.

I have a vacuum brake bleeder...a home made one, but it requires compressed air. It works wonderfully and I haven't needed help bleeding brakes or clutches with any of my projects.


Now...Torque Wrenches. Years ago I made a very expensive mistake using a 1/2" drive torque wrench and I swore it would never happen again lol. I now have three torque wrenches...a 1/4", a 3/8", and a 1/2" drive. We have a 3/4" one at work I can use if needed, but it's usually too large for anything automotive. So I now have a torque wrench for each range, and I really only use the 1/2" wrench for bigger stuff that's over probably 50 ft/lbs. For any bolts in the 1/4" to 3/8" range, ESPECIALLY if they're in aluminum, I will use the 1/4" or 3/8" drive torque wrenches.

I rarely even need torque wrenches these days working on old stuff with cast iron heads, etc, but I used to work on a lot of motorcycles and diesel Volkswagens with a lot of aluminum engine parts.

tcbaklash wrote

Something I would recommend thinking about further down the road is a Dremel rotary tool. They can do all sorts of stuff, but most importantly they can use cutoff discs. Don't buy one now, just think about it when you encounter a seized castle nut on a ball joint or something.

Two thumbs up on this! I have a full Dremel kit in the plastic tool box, and I've bought an assortment of bits for it over the years, and I use the thing ALL the time. I'd be lost without it.

Check your local parts store for tools they will loan for free. (AutoZone in the USA has some).
Don't buy a tool or piece of test equipment that you may only use once or twice in your life if you can get a loaner. For me that would be something like a compression tester.
 

Great advice and discussion, thank you!

Around the 3/8 or 1/4 torque wrench, would the Princess Auto specials (cheap and who knows the accuracy) be acceptable or does it make sense to wait until I really need it and but a better/more reliable torque wrench? I feel like I know the answer is yes but I imagine it also somewhat depends on what I'm doing.

Also around the dremel, I did grab one on sale a while ago and haven't actually had a chance to use it yet because I'm just picking the project back up now with the weather.

And great advice from Whisler on renting from parts stores. I completely forgot this was an option and likely makes sense for something like a compression tester. I figured they are cheap so buying one isn't a big deal but its a good point that I'll likely only use it once so does it make sense to spend money on.

For us up here "north"
Canadian Tire has a good selection of loaner tools

I've not had a lot of need for my 1/4" torque wrench.  In fact, I've not had a lot of need for any torque wrench unless I'm building an engine or setting up a differential, and I don't do much of that.  But I do put my lug nuts on with a 1/2" drive torque wrench, although that may not be necessary.  Anyway, I'd wait until you need one.

As for the compression tester, I don't believe in them.  I've had them tell me an engine was fine only to find out with a leak-down test it was worn out.  So I only do leak-down tests.

What is a leak-down test?  You bring a piston up on TDC on the compression stroke, pull the spark plug, and thread the air fitting from the tester into the spark plug hole.  Then you put 100 psi to the tester and read the amount of air loss that is leaking by the rings, valves, head gasket, etc.

There are usually two gauges with a small orifice between them, something like .060".  So if there is leakage in the cylinder the pressure drops and the pressure delta is the % loss - if the inlet has 100 psi.  And if you listen in the sump you'll hear any leakage past the rings; in the exhaust for those valves; intake for those valves; and you'll see bubbles in the radiator for a head gasket leak.  In fact, I've found cracked heads by hearing the sound of leaking air in an adjacent cylinder.

Yes, it does require compressed air, but not a lot.  And you can see the cost of several different kits here at Amazon, although I'm not saying those are the ones to buy.

Periwinkle wrote

Great advice and discussion, thank you!

Around the 3/8 or 1/4 torque wrench, would the Princess Auto specials (cheap and who knows the accuracy) be acceptable or does it make sense to wait until I really need it and but a better/more reliable torque wrench? I feel like I know the answer is yes but I imagine it also somewhat depends on what I'm doing.

Also around the dremel, I did grab one on sale a while ago and haven't actually had a chance to use it yet because I'm just picking the project back up now with the weather.

And great advice from Whisler on renting from parts stores. I completely forgot this was an option and likely makes sense for something like a compression tester. I figured they are cheap so buying one isn't a big deal but its a good point that I'll likely only use it once so does it make sense to spend money on.

I used to get all the tools that needed it calibrated where I used to work. Surprising to me the torque wrenches from Snap On, Mac, Craftsman and some Chineseium (if we had one we used on the aircraft, our boss would let us calibrate them), all were in tolerance.

I think you would be good with one from Princess.

I'm like Gary, I use them on things like head bolts and such, and like to use them on wheel nuts.