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Emissions components

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Squirlye

Emissions components

The PO removed the feedback carb. And replaced it with a non feedback Carter single barrel. So there is a whole bunch of loose open electrical connectors. And some blocked off vacuum ports at the spacer, between the carb and intake. So because of where I live, I do not need any emissions. And I want to upgrade to a sniper system in the future. So my question is. What can I remove and what has to stay. For the time being before upgrading the intake exhaust and distributer. I've already removed the cats. They got completely clogged up. Truck ran like crap then overheated. When I removed them it sounded like they were full of rocks. So what has to stay and what can go?

Squirlye, 86 F-150 short bed, 300 I6, 4x4, 4 speed, HEI distributer with computer delete. And more to come.

Gary Lewis

Re: Emissions components

Administrator

If the feedback carb is gone then either the computer will have its knickers in a twist and have locked timing to the initial setting, or someone also replaced the ignition module and distributor. Can you post a pic of the distributor?

Basically what you need to do is to go back to the DS-II ignition system. No computer, vacuum advance on the distributor, no EGR, etc. You'll need vacuum for the distributor, HVAC system, brake booster, and speed control if you have it. All the other vacuum lines can be removed.

And the electrical wires going to the computer can be removed. They shouldn't be part of the basic engine wiring, so you can start at the computer's connector and follow each wire and remove it.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Squirlye

Re: Emissions components

After reading other posts on here. I think what the PO did, was half a$$ed the swap. Here is the only picture I have at the moment. It was exactly how I got it. But since then I have installed new plugs,wires,cap,and rotor. Oil and filter, fuel filters. And of course rebuild the carb. 6333529F-154D-4D31-A343-A2CEA4BB9221.jpeg

Squirlye, 86 F-150 short bed, 300 I6, 4x4, 4 speed, HEI distributer with computer delete. And more to come.

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Emissions components

Administrator

So everyone can see your TFI distributor.....

Without input from the carb your timing is locked in 'limp home' mode.
Would it be best to go over to DSIi if you can find the distributor portion of the harness?
All the rest of the circuit is already in your truck.

You need a source of vacuum for the DSII distributor, and note what Gary says about the advance curve if you're not running EGR.
And I do believe the EGR solenoids are controlled by the computer.... that can't tell your throttle opening anymore.
Maybe it would be easier to refit a feedback carb for the time being?
That should have everything working properly until you switch to the Sniper.

Seems a LOT of 300 owners are suddenly taking the Sniper route.
Advertising???

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Gary Lewis

Re: Emissions components

Administrator

If the move to a Sniper will be soon then you'll have to figure out what to do for now. And there seems to be two paths - put a feedback carb on or go to full DS-II. But I suspect neither path is a slam dunk.

I say that because I'm guessing the PO took the feedback carb off for some reason. Maybe it was failing, but it may be that some other part of the system wasn't right and he thought it was the carb. So if you can find the right carb and install it you may then have to fix whatever else may be wrong, and it is a complex system that isn't well understood.

As for DS-II, I suspect that would be the easier approach. But you'll still have some work to do. And then when you go with the Sniper you may want to put the TFI distributor back on as the Sniper can control the timing.

Bottom Line: You should think through IF you are going to the Sniper and when. That may help with the decision making.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Squirlye

Re: Emissions components

The move to a sniper unfortunately is not in the immediate future. But after ready other posts about distributers. I think I will get a HEI distributor now. And just keep the carb until I go to the full throttle body swap. As I said before I had to remove the cats. They were completely trashed. So going to a vacuum advance distributer should take care of timing problems correct ?

Squirlye, 86 F-150 short bed, 300 I6, 4x4, 4 speed, HEI distributer with computer delete. And more to come.

Gary Lewis

Re: Emissions components

Administrator

Yes, going with a dizzy with a vacuum advance will fix the timing problem.

As for the HEI, it makes the swap fairly simple. You'll need a high-current source of switched power as the HEI requires a lot of current to saturate the coil. A fused #10 or #12 wire from the battery to a relay pulled in by switched power will do the trick.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Emissions components

Administrator

In reply to this post by Squirlye

Yes.
The Push Start TFI system you have now relys on the engine management computer for all advance, through a crude lookup table.
(and there is not throttle position data.... and given the condition of the Cat I'm sure the O2 sensor is not giving the computer anything much)

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.

Squirlye

Re: Emissions components

In reply to this post by Gary Lewis

Does anyone know about this brand of dizzy ? https://www.topstreetperformance.com/hei-ford-inline-6-distributor-240-350 Also you talk about wiring a relay. What kind, where to buy it and what exact power source do I wire it to. Sorry about the stupid questions. But electrical work is not my strong point. But it seems you guys have a lot of knowledge on this subject. Again as I posted before I want to go with the throttle body route. It should be way more reliable and better performance. I think I have my mind made up to go with the EFI exhaust manifolds and a offenhauser intake.
And again I will be eliminating all of the unnecessary emissions. Also future plans of buying a completely new wiring harness. As a lot of wires are cracking and have been chewed on by packrats. And of course the 3G alternator swap. I'm really starting to like this truck more and more. So the first order of business is to get it reliable to be my daily driver. And get the A/C working again. Arizona summers are brutal.

Squirlye, 86 F-150 short bed, 300 I6, 4x4, 4 speed, HEI distributer with computer delete. And more to come.

FuzzFace2

Re: Emissions components

Sorry I cant help on the dist. if good or not.

As for wiring the HEI dist. someone posted somewhere you can use the same 12volt keyed power wire on the fender to power the HEI and not wire in a relay but I dont know how true this is as I have not tried it.

So with that said you would take that same 12volt keyed power wire on the fender to turn on / off the relay.
The relay would get a full 12 fused volts from the battery. This is what supplies the HEI the 12 volts it needs to work.
The switched power wire listed above to turn the relay on / off.
And you would have a ground wire on the relay to make it work.

The relay & pig tail you should be able to get at any auto parts store and most come with how to wire them up.

As for a new harness you better get good at wiring as no one makes a complete harness for our trucks so you would need to get one that fits everything, mostly GM, so it makes for a lot of fun.
Dave ----

Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1
81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP
http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100

85lebaront2

Re: Emissions components

Administrator

The use of the relay is due to Ford's wiring on these trucks not being designed to feed a full 12V @ the required current draw of an HEI system. GM typically used a 8 or 10ga wire to feed them.

The ignition switches on our trucks are not designed to handle this current nor are the ignition feed wires. A Bosch style square box relay is rated 40 amps feed through on the normally open (closed when energized) contacts, sockets are available usually around the lighting and electrical areas in parts stores. Just be leery of Chinese knockoffs.

Dave is correct, most of the "painless" wiring I have seen is spelled Chevrolet as far what it fits.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

ArdWrknTrk

Re: Emissions components

Administrator

In reply to this post by Squirlye

Use a 'Bosch' style 30 of 40A cube relay with a socket that has an integral mounting tab.
Put it next to the fender mounted starter relay.
Make up a wire from the battery out of the starter relay to 30 of the cube relay.
Take 87 of the relay to the HEI.
56 is ground and can get an eyelet under the mounting screw.
Take the factory red coil wire to the trigger 55.

Jim,
Lil'Red is a '87 F250 HD, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with a Holley 80508 and Performer intake.
Too much other stuff to mention.