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Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

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Bulletproof250

Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

This post was updated on .

Hey there Bullnose Team,

These 2 Harness Plugs (click image) are actually OK (I'm snickering), unfortunately the harness going to them is TOAST, I got a small "bite" while the engine was running and decided, maybe NOW is the time to work on this issue....

I looked about the site but I did not find the call out for a replacement plug or pigtail, I'm open to used ones if anyone has them, the stuff I can find on eBay is Huge Money and way to extensive. I know my way around with a soldering iron...

Ooops, I found these:

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS HP4735
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4673523&cc=1123793&pt=10623&jsn=3581

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS HP3935
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4673358&cc=1123793&pt=10623&jsn=3582

...anyone have a good experience with them?

Thanks,
Alex

1984 F-250 Std Cab (a.k.a. Harrison), Dana 60 Rear, Dana 44HD Front, Ratio 3.54:1, 351W, 2bbl Motorcraft 2150, 4WD NP208 Transfer Case, 4-Speed Warner T-18..
Med Desert Tan Metallic ("Tan? ..not brown?" <= from CT DMV worker upon registering)

-Teach your Kids to Fish, Hunt, or get them into Cars, and they'll never have the time or money for drugs.

Gary Lewis

Re: Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

Administrator

Well, we really don't have those connectors identified and links to where to buy them set out. But we do have a link to Ford's Pigtails catalog where you might find them. I say "might" because I've not looked.

But to answer your question, Standard Motor Products stuff used to be good. However, like many things, some of their stuff has gone downhill of late, so I can't say about those connectors.

Having said that, Bill Vose/85lebaront2 recently sent me some info that I've not posted yet. He said that the DS-II 3-wire connector is AUVECO PN 20841 and the DS-II 4-wire is AUVECO PN 20844.

And, he included this screenshot from Clips And Fasteners. I've purchased from both Auveco & C&F and they are good suppliers.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

Bulletproof250

Re: Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

Thanks again Gary,

I'll be sure to update my post with my finished product (as replaced) and I also thought about extending the harness to start running the ignition module harness back toward the Firewall before bringing it forward to the distributor area. and get rid of the harness running from the fender well to the engine block, hopefully a more clean install.

Gary Lewis

Re: Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

Administrator

That would get rid of that set of wires hanging between the fender liner and the engine.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

BigBrother-84

Re: Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

I was always wondering why Ford installed this module there, on the fender liner, exposed to water, salt and all dirts that contaminate the engine compartment.

About the wire plug, I replaced the truck male one for the same reason than yours (corroded and almost cut wires), same as for the module itself (bran new one). I bought the two at NAPA, was very satisfied, same as original.

Followed the wiring diagram colours codes for the truck male plug, and… nothing, no start. Examining the original plug, I discovered that I had to reverse the position of two wires to reproduce the original condition, in full disregard of the diagram. Mystery. Nothing to see with NAPA plug, the truck simply does not respect the diagram colours codes.

Jeff / 1984 F350 Crew Cab 4x4/5.8L w351 4V/ T18/ D50 4.10 front/ 8' bed.
Restored 2019-2022.
Nicknamed «Big Brother 1984», due to its soooo-looong shape & nod to George Orwell's 1984 famous novel.

Gary Lewis

Re: Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

Administrator

You may have missed something in the wiring diagram.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

BigBrother-84

Re: Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

You are absolutely right! I used another diagram (from the Haynes Manual), which I now realize is wrong.
BTW, I had to use the 1980 diagram, since the 1984 to 1986 one does absolutely not match BigBrother's wiring.

Here are the original diagram and my coloured notes:

The new male plugs:

Jeff / 1984 F350 Crew Cab 4x4/5.8L w351 4V/ T18/ D50 4.10 front/ 8' bed.
Restored 2019-2022.
Nicknamed «Big Brother 1984», due to its soooo-looong shape & nod to George Orwell's 1984 famous novel.

85lebaront2

Re: Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

Administrator

Many aftermarket manuals are very poor on wiring diagrams, and not just on Fords.

Once you get things where you want them, do a proper splice on the wires, those crimp on connectors will get wet and the wires will corrode.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

Gary Lewis

Re: Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

Administrator

In reply to this post by BigBrother-84

I don't use Chiltons, Clymers, or Hanes for anything but filling my shelves. They look good there, but I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole for anything but general information.

Decades ago I was rebuilding my brother's 903 Kawi using one of those pub's. Was torquing a cam bearing bolt into the aluminum head and it got "greasy" before getting anywhere near the stated torque. I stopped and found the factory spec, which was MUCH lower than theirs.

So I swore off the aftermarket books. Instead I use factory publications as they have some serious skin in the game. Imagine what would happen if the factory told every tech in the world the wrong torque spec? Man, that would be costly!

But I'm not saying that factory pub's are infallible. I've found errors in Ford's pub's, but I believe there are far fewer of them than in the aftermarket pubs.

As for DS-II wiring, it didn't change. Compare it in the 1981 EVTM to the 1986 EVTM and the is no difference.

Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

BigBrother-84

Re: Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

85lebaront2 wrote

[...] those crimp on connectors will get wet and the wires will corrode.

I use the waterproof heat-shrinkable connectors everywhere, even inside the cabin. Expensive, but I never had corrosion problem with these. I prefer this method more than the heat shrink sleeves.
Maybe just a matter of taste?

In all cases, no place for electric tape on my wiring!

Gary Lewis wrote

I don't use Chiltons, Clymers, or Hanes for anything but filling my shelves.

Good advice Gary, I'll remember that!

Jeff / 1984 F350 Crew Cab 4x4/5.8L w351 4V/ T18/ D50 4.10 front/ 8' bed.
Restored 2019-2022.
Nicknamed «Big Brother 1984», due to its soooo-looong shape & nod to George Orwell's 1984 famous novel.

taskswap

Re: Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

Those waterproof ones are stronger too. The adhesive lining adds some grip that helps prevent the joint from breaking over the years from fatigue. I carry a dozen in every toolbox for emergencies.

--
1981 F-250 Custom. 6.6L V8, 4 barrel Holley carb, ARA aftermarket A/C.

85lebaront2

Re: Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

Administrator

In reply to this post by BigBrother-84

I generally solder and heat shrink, and if I am splicing a harness with a number of wires, I will stagger the splices.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

salans7

Re: Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

I'm glad you posted this as I will need to replace some plugs on my DS II harness and was wondering where to find the male ends. Thanks!

I mistakenly referred to my Haynes manual when changing my spark plugs and wires (Ranger) last weekend, and if I had set them up the way the Haynes manual told me to, the truck would have run poorly, if at all. Luckily my Motorcraft coil pack is marked with the matched sets, so I used that for reference to run the wires and just had to make sure I knew the cylinders by Ford's definition.

ratdude747

Re: Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

In reply to this post by 85lebaront2

If it's an inline splice to an existing wire I'll solder and liquid tape the individual connections (as I don't cut the existing wire, just carefully notch off the existing insulation) and then tape over the entire harness. Otherwise for wires 20 gauge and larger these days I crimp, with heat shrink butts especially if in a washdown area. Heavy(ish) connections are with done with spade terminals, lighter ones (that don't see routine unplugging) get bullet crimps. I mention this because yesterday I noticed that the bullet crimps I used for the SPOUT disconnect on my TFI ICM harness had shrunk from heat to where one wouldn't be able to unplug it to set base timing... redid it with spades which don't have that issue in my experience.

The way I was taught and what I've found in practice is that for power applications at least, solder is better than a poor mechanical connection, but inferior to a good mechanical connection. Solder has a resistance greater than copper... and when there's a lot of amps, that resistance can become an issue.

1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).

85lebaront2

Re: Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

Administrator

I was taught how to splice wires by a man with a Masters degree in electrical engineering from MIT. I have rewired a number of vehicles over the years and never had any major problems.

Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

ratdude747

Re: Electrical-Underhood Pigtails?

I was originally taught by a Mentor with a Master's in EE from someplace... guy was a genius. Specifically after we (in the context of High School (FIRST) robotics) made the mistake of trying to crimp 6 gauge battery lugs in a vice and then torch soldered them after... they got so hot under load that the heat from them was soaking and tripping out 120A main breaker. Swapping to some screw/clamp type terminals (which we had had luck torch soldering) fixed that issue... don't use those type crimps if you don't have the right crimper!

That said, I was also taught in college (for my BS in EET) by a professor with a Master's in EET (or EE, I don't remember) that if it works, it's right. Do what works for you, until it stops working for you. There isn't a single right answer in this case.

1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).