Beaglerock/83f150 351W C6 Transmission 2 wheel drive.
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Gary I got my nap in and was looking at pcv's and noticed mine has one outlet but Autozone, O'riellys etc. Show two outlets. Any idea where the second one would go? Or just get another like I have? I'm over analyzing things big time but am leaving no stone unturned. Will pick up a cigar a little later at Jonathan's request... egads I haven't smoked one of those in decades ! Lol
Beaglerock/83f150 351W C6 Transmission 2 wheel drive.
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Administrator
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All of the "2 outlet" PCV valves I've seen have had a blank for the top one. I've heard of some applications requiring two, so apparently for those you cut the tip off the second one.
Anyway, go with one like you have. But don't forget to put your finger over the end of the PCV valve with the engine running to see if it'll idle down, which would indicate lots of air going through it.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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New pcv valve and grommet ,Much better! Truck runs ok but still has a flat spot very early in acceleration .I have the radio out to test another one and noticed last night as I got the truck out on the turnpike that the vacuum controlled blend door motor makes a creaking sound when on the throttle hard and when I let off it . Is this normal or may I have a weak/cracked vacuum line going to the vacuum motors? I find it strange myself,its like vacuum leaves at full throttle and comes back when Ilet off of throttle.
Since installing new pcv the oil filler cap with the hose that goes to the breather really puts out the blow by now! Well time to go earn some $ so I can put more of it in the Bluebird of Happiness 😀
Beaglerock/83f150 351W C6 Transmission 2 wheel drive.
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Administrator
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There should be a vacuum reservoir under the hood, which maintains vacuum during full throttle runs. On 1984's and 1985's [six cylinders], the reservoir is a black plastic ball shaped item.
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In reply to this post by BeagleRock
Glad the PCV valve and grommet helped so much. You are peeling the onion, but have a few layers left to go. Tell us more about when the flat spot occurs. Is it just as you start to open the throttle?
My guess on the blend door creaking is that you don't have the vacuum reservoir and check valve. They are shown on this page (Underhood/Vacuum Systems/Vacuum Reservoirs), but there's a screen grab from it shown below. And, in that the top red circle shows the tee/check valve combo, and the bottom is the reservoir. However, if you read the text on that page you'll see that the reservoirs came in can and ball styles. What is supposed to happen is that vacuum from the intake manifold gets stored in the reservoir. The other side of the tee goes to the HVAC system through the grommet in the firewall. And when you floor the throttle the vacuum drops in the engine, but the check valve prevents the HVAC system from losing vacuum. However, w/o either the check valve or the reservoir the system loses vacuum and the door closes.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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I'll check these things out tomorrow. I know I removed one that looked like Bushes Baked Beans can lol but the black sphere shaped one is still there. Can't answer the T check valve yet. Throttle is just barely pressed when engine runs rough. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Thursday, June 28, 2018 Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:
Glad the PCV valve and grommet helped so much. You are peeling the onion, but have a few layers left to go. Tell us more about when the flat spot occurs. Is it just as you start to open the throttle?
My guess on the blend door creaking is that you don't have the vacuum reservoir and check valve. They are shown on this page (Underhood/Vacuum Systems/Vacuum Reservoirs), but there's a screen grab from it shown below. And, in that the top red circle shows the tee/check valve combo, and the bottom is the reservoir. However, if you read the text on that page you'll see that the reservoirs came in can and ball styles. What is supposed to happen is that vacuum from the intake manifold gets stored in the reservoir. The other side of the tee goes to the HVAC system through the grommet in the firewall. And when you floor the throttle the vacuum drops in the engine, but the check valve prevents the HVAC system from losing vacuum. However, w/o either the check valve or the reservoir the system loses vacuum and the door closes.
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/soon-to-be ZF5/3.55's & EEC-V MAF/SEFI If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:
http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/EGR-Block-off-tp12005p12203.html
Beaglerock/83f150 351W C6 Transmission 2 wheel drive.
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Administrator
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David actually beat me to it on the vacuum issue. And, if you get to drive it to the show both he and I'll get to see it.
As for the baked beans can vs sphere, both were used and it doesn't really matter which you have. The can appears to hold more, but the sphere gets the job done. However, the key is the check valve. On the rough spot, that sounds like a problem with the accelerator pump. Make sure you have two streams of gas shooting into the carb when you open the throttle - with the engine off. And, make sure you don't have much clearance between the linkage and the accelerator pump with the throttle closed. If you have much clearance it delays the pump's squirt until you've opened the throttle quite a bit.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Gary I removed the can way back but the round one is still hooked up to the check valve as it was originally. As for the flat spot it seems to straighten out after driving for 10-15 minutes and then starts running a little rough at about 1/4 throttle. Got me scratching my head. I still think there's a small vac leak or maybe the coke can that's now blocking off the EGR could be varying as temp rises or lowers , I'm in the paralysis by analysis mode now I fear. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Thursday, June 28, 2018 Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:
David actually beat me to it on the vacuum issue. And, if you get to drive it to the show both he and I'll get to see it.
As for the baked beans can vs sphere, both were used and it doesn't really matter which you have. The can appears to hold more, but the sphere gets the job done. However, the key is the check valve. On the rough spot, that sounds like a problem with the accelerator pump. Make sure you have two streams of gas shooting into the carb when you open the throttle - with the engine off. And, make sure you don't have much clearance between the linkage and the accelerator pump with the throttle closed. If you have much clearance it delays the pump's squirt until you've opened the throttle quite a bit.
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/soon-to-be ZF5/3.55's & EEC-V MAF/SEFI If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:
http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/EGR-Block-off-tp12005p12208.html
Beaglerock/83f150 351W C6 Transmission 2 wheel drive.
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Administrator
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If the round vacuum reservoir is still properly connected but you lose vacuum and high throttle then either the check valve isn't working or you have a significant vacuum leak in the HVAC system.
You can test that theory by turning the blower on with the engine running, and then pulling the vacuum line that is going to the check valve. The easiest place might be the plastic manifold on the firewall. If the theory is correct you'll hear the doors move almost immediately, but if everything is working correctly it'll be maybe a minute or longer before it moves. Or, you can sit in the truck after you turn the engine off and listen. Or turn the key back on to run the fan. If all is well nothing will change for several minutes. But if you have a problem it'll change almost immediately. On the rough running, if you didn't get a good seal where the Coke can is then you can have a vacuum leak there. And the leak could change as the engine warms up with expansion of the parts. That would be a good place to check.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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The hose going to the check valve from the firewall was lose! Put a clamp on it but same results. By removing the hose with engine running the creaking sound is immediate.
I did notice that I have to push on the choke pull down diaphram to get it to engage or suck in. That just tells me it's faulty but doesn't seem to have an affect on idle or anything else for that matter. Anyway that's my story for today, back to work tomorrow 😌
Beaglerock/83f150 351W C6 Transmission 2 wheel drive.
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Administrator
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If the door creaks immediately on pulling the vacuum source then you have a leak or a bad check valve.
You can test the check valve by pulling the hose off the side going to the HVAC system, being careful because that stuff is brittle, and checking to see if there is still vacuum on it after you remove the source. One way to do that is to put a vacuum gauge on it. Another is to put your thumb over it and see if the vacuum remains when the source is pulled. And you can test the HVAC system by pulling a vacuum on the line which you removed from the check valve. A Mityvac will work, our you can put the hose in your mouth and pull a vacuum. If the system is leaking you'll know pretty quickly. On the choke, are you saying the pull-down doesn't open the choke unless you help it? That could be a problem as it might let the choke set when you give the engine a lot of gas and the vacuum drops off. Then when the vacuum comes back it might not pull the choke off properly. For that check the linkage as it may be binding. Or the pull-down may have a hole or split in it.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Ok I'll check the HVAC if the rain stops before I go to work. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Sunday, July 1, 2018 Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:
If the door creaks immediately on pulling the vacuum source then you have a leak or a bad check valve.
You can test the check valve by pulling the hose off the side going to the HVAC system, being careful because that stuff is brittle, and checking to see if there is still vacuum on it after you remove the source. One way to do that is to put a vacuum gauge on it. Another is to put your thumb over it and see if the vacuum remains when the source is pulled. And you can test the HVAC system by pulling a vacuum on the line which you removed from the check valve. A Mityvac will work, our you can put the hose in your mouth and pull a vacuum. If the system is leaking you'll know pretty quickly. On the choke, are you saying the pull-down doesn't open the choke unless you help it? That could be a problem as it might let the choke set when you give the engine a lot of gas and the vacuum drops off. Then when the vacuum comes back it might not pull the choke off properly. For that check the linkage as it may be binding. Or the pull-down may have a hole or split in it.
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/soon-to-be ZF5/3.55's & EEC-V MAF/SEFI If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:
http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/EGR-Block-off-tp12005p12298.html
Beaglerock/83f150 351W C6 Transmission 2 wheel drive.
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Found a motorcraft check valve on amazon, should be here Fri. Hopefully that will cure my loss of vacuum to the HVAC. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Sunday, July 1, 2018 Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:
If the door creaks immediately on pulling the vacuum source then you have a leak or a bad check valve.
You can test the check valve by pulling the hose off the side going to the HVAC system, being careful because that stuff is brittle, and checking to see if there is still vacuum on it after you remove the source. One way to do that is to put a vacuum gauge on it. Another is to put your thumb over it and see if the vacuum remains when the source is pulled. And you can test the HVAC system by pulling a vacuum on the line which you removed from the check valve. A Mityvac will work, our you can put the hose in your mouth and pull a vacuum. If the system is leaking you'll know pretty quickly. On the choke, are you saying the pull-down doesn't open the choke unless you help it? That could be a problem as it might let the choke set when you give the engine a lot of gas and the vacuum drops off. Then when the vacuum comes back it might not pull the choke off properly. For that check the linkage as it may be binding. Or the pull-down may have a hole or split in it.
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/soon-to-be ZF5/3.55's & EEC-V MAF/SEFI If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:
http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/EGR-Block-off-tp12005p12298.html
Beaglerock/83f150 351W C6 Transmission 2 wheel drive.
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Administrator
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Oh no! AFIB! Not good! What are they going to do?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Increased Metoprolol and added Amlodipine and Hydrochlorithiazide, continue with baby aspirin. I've had this since 2015 and about once a year it gets going and doesn't want to stop. Mowing yesterday in the heat probably didn't help because potassium level was tanked. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Wednesday, July 11, 2018 Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:
Oh no! AFIB! Not good! What are they going to do?
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/soon-to-be ZF5/3.55's & EEC-V MAF/SEFI If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:
http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/EGR-Block-off-tp12005p12524.html
Beaglerock/83f150 351W C6 Transmission 2 wheel drive.
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I think of you as a friend even though we've not actually met - although I hope that changes on Sept 15th. Anyway, hopefully the medicine will solve the problem - quickly!
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Well thank you Gary and I do hope to see you in a few weeks. Preferably in my truck but I'm not sure as of now. On Jul 11, 2018 10:07 PM, "Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts]" <[hidden email]> wrote: I think of you as a friend even though we've not actually met - although I hope that changes on Sept 15th. Â Anyway, hopefully the medicine will solve the problem - quickly!
Beaglerock/83f150 351W C6 Transmission 2 wheel drive.
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