E3 Spark plugs any good?

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E3 Spark plugs any good?

ratdude747
My bullnose is possibly coming due for spark plugs (recently started running a bit rougher; the plugs have about 13,000 on them)... and I remembered that my buddy ran copper E3's in his TFI iginitioned '94 tempo with the HSC 4 banger (which I later owned) and it seemed to like them nicely. Since such is basically a fuel injected 300 with two cylinder chopped off, would they be worth a try in my feedback carbed (TFI) 300?

Or should I stick with the copper motorcraft plugs I normally run?
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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Re: E3 Spark plugs any good?

1986F150Six
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Go with the BSF44P Motorcraft spark plug which is specified for the 1987 and later FI 4.9L. It reaches farther into the combustion chamber.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/motorcraft-spark-plug-bsf44p-sp-452/18090030-P?searchTerm=spark+plugs

They work extremely well.
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Re: E3 Spark plugs any good?

ratdude747
Did not know about those. Ordered a set of them from O'reiley (I have a can of bumper coater to pick up tomorrow so saves me a trip ordering there).
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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Re: E3 Spark plugs any good?

1986F150Six
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It is always a good idea to apply a light coating of anti seize compound to the spark plug threads prior to installation.
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Re: E3 Spark plugs any good?

ratdude747
I usually don't... O2 Sensors, yes.

Noted.
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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Re: E3 Spark plugs any good?

Gary Lewis
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In reply to this post by 1986F150Six
1986F150Six wrote
It is always a good idea to apply a light coating of anti seize compound to the spark plug threads prior to installation.
And do NOT get any on the electrode.  It will NOT bake off.  DAHIK.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: E3 Spark plugs any good?

ratdude747
Which is partially why I never did!

May see if I can get some of the copper kind... we use it at work for mating up high current copper welding bars/cables due to the conductivity (especially on old pieces that are somewhat pitted). I have the Aluminum kind and while for non-electrical use it's fine, I'd think it'd be less than idea in this case?
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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Re: E3 Spark plugs any good?

Gary Lewis
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I use the aluminum kind all the time on spark plugs and other things.  I have the copper, but prefer the aluminum.

And the only problem on spark plugs is if you paint the electrode.  The stuff conducts quite well and bakes into the porcelain.  But that would be true of aluminum or copper.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: E3 Spark plugs any good?

ratdude747
The issue with Aluminum is that it corrodes... same reason why residential aluminum wire went the way of the dodo (in a literal blaze of glory!).

Copper not so much... why I'd think it'd be better for a conductive situation (improve the ground connection).
1984 F150: 300 L6, AOD, RWD. EEC IV / TFI, Feedback Carter YFA Carb. Stock everything but radio (for now).
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Re: E3 Spark plugs any good?

85lebaront2
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I am going to throw my $.02 in on this one (FWIW). I found in running a tune up and carburetor shop a lot of interesting facts. First "gimmick" plugs, they may help, but usually just the fact that they are new is most of the improvement. Second, anti seize, I use the nickel base one on aluminum heads, generally not on iron heads.

For those of us who have other than just Ford trucks, plug sourcing can get interesting. OEM for US manufacturers were AC - GM (they own them), Autolite - Ford until they were sold, Champion, Chrysler and AMC. Ford now calls for Motorcraft.

Plug numbering systems can be a real can of worms, for years they were alpha-numeric, the alpha portion identifying the basic geometry and the numeric the heat range, lower = colder, higher = hotter. Examples - BF42, Autolite plug for most Ford V8s from the Y-block through the early 429/460 engines. BF32 was colder (My Shelby used them) BF82, much hotter, most 6 cyl Fords for years. Champion N - Nash, long reach (3/4") J - GM mostly, short reach (3/8") H - Hudson, plug used in many Onan built engines also. AC plugs use a reverse sequence with the number first then the reach letters, 44F, fairly hot, 3/8" reach, 42F a bit colder. 42FF Corvair .472" reach, same plug as a VW Beetle air cooled engine. AC stopped making the FF plugs in the late 90s, saying to use the F plugs, problems caused are the inner end of the plug is slightly recessed into the threads.

Plug reach, and tip design (projected vs flush) can make a huge difference in engine running, Two personal examples (not mine, but friends vehicles) Bosch platinum plugs in EFI Fords = poor running, erratic misfire etc. Don't ask my why, it was on several 302 EFI engines. AC plugs, correct heat range and reach by the catalog, 1994 F150 5.0L, abysmal fuel economy, owner had inherited the truck as a payment for administering his neighbors will. He pulled the plugs and found the ACs, put Motorcraft ones in, damn near doubled his gas mileage. He called me on his cell from I64 on his way to his retirement home he was building and started singing "I'm a believer" to me. He was already beyond Richmond from Newport News with a load of material and hadn't even used 1/2 of the first tank where before he would have been switching tanks by then.
Bill AKA "LOBO" Profile

"Getting old is inevitable, growing up is optional" Darth Vader 1986 F350 460 converted to MAF/SEFI, E4OD 12X3 1/2 rear brakes, traction loc 3:55 gear, 160 amp 3G alternator Wife's 2011 Flex Limited Daily Driver 2009 Flex Limited with factory tow package Project car 1986 Chrysler LeBaron convertible 2.2L Turbo II, modified A413

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Re: E3 Spark plugs any good?

Frank Wyatt
I had the same problem with the Bosch plugs as well on a 302 in a '79 Couger XR7. I put them in and drove it up the road to the next driveway and back and put the Autolite's back in. They did show me the Autolites still had a lot of miles left in them. The 302 sure did not like them and I have never tried the Bosch plugs in anything ever since.














i
1981 F 150 Custom 300 ci with a fully rebuilt 1968 240 head Carter YFA T-18 3.25 9" rear 2WD
dual gas tanks
1990 Lincoln Town Car 5.0 AOD
Home town Mc Kenzie, TN