Drivers side window shattered.

My drivers side window broke today. I've already ordered a replacement from LMC but will I need to order a new channel rubber or will the old one be reusable once I clean out the shards of glass stuck in it?

Well, not a pro about that question, but I would say that the issue is not the glass particles stuck in the channel.  I’m pretty sure they’ll come out easily.
The "dryness" of the rubber will be the real issue, but you don’t need to pull it out in order to reinstall the new glass.  If it was working well without water leaks, you’re probably better to keep it as is.
Depends on how "rejuvenate" your truck is important or not.

Sounds like you and I might not be talking about the same thing. I'm talking about the rubber channel at the bottom of the window in the window channel lift.

did the glass that you ordered not come with the channel? just wondering as i have not yet needed to buy new glass. i have been collecting originals for a while.

I'm guessing not as they are sold separately from LMC.

Powerman5K wrote

Sounds like you and I might not be talking about the same thing. I'm talking about the rubber channel at the bottom of the window in the window channel lift.

You're right!  I thought about the rubber in the vertical channels, going around the top door too.
Sorry!
So, you're talking about #8 on LMC's diagram.  This is the one that holds the window glass to the rail #7.  Has to be in very good condition to avoid the glass to come out.


I never had to change it, I will let other members to share their experiences.

Correct. My vertices felt channels are all rotted away and gone. That is the reason it broke. The irony is they are scheduled to come in today and I'll install them. I swapped out the door seals yesterday and while I was adjusting the door strikers (and slaming the door shut) it shattered. Hoping the seals break in more over time and I don't have to slam my door shut like the Hulk!

Powerman5K wrote

Hoping the seals break in more over time and I don't have to slam my door shut like the Hulk!

Well, when I changed mine, I had to shut the doors, let's say very firmly, during couple of weeks.
Now they close like new, I have the feeling I'm driving a Rolls Royce.

A year and change later, I *still* have to slam my doors after redoing the weatherstripping... they never broke in!

(They're from LMC, if that matters).

Try rolling down the window before closing it. May not be the weatherstrip but air pressure.

It helps... But still tight.

i have seen a few cases where the new door gaskets are too tight in their construction. lets consider something. it is a hollow tube essentially with a splice at the bottom with a foam coupler. when shutting the door the air inside the tube is compressed also and must be displaced. some manufacturers punch a series of holes for this venting. some may not. look over the gaskets well to see if they are vented and if not, a small round xacto tool is what i use to carefully make a few. only vent to the cabin area otherwise it may take on water.

ratdude747 wrote

 They're from LMC, if that matters.

Larry, I too got mine from LMC.

In addition to waiting a few weeks for the rubber to smooth and take its place, I had to play with the position of the four door latches (yep, crew cab is like a motel), in order to find a comfortable slam-the-door-arm-power requirement.

I did that... to be able to get them to shut at all!

This is a solid thought that I hadn't considered. I will add holes in my weather stripping. Also, I notice that my passenger door sticks way out at the top but not at the bottom after changing the weather stripping. Would you assume that I simply need to adjust how the door hangs?

My guess is it will be rock hard and not able to be reused. Might be worth checking with a local shop on dropping off the two pieces. Maybe it's really easy but seems like something that experience and the right tools would help with.

new issue! if the door "fit" has changed then there are a couple possibilities. most common is worn bushings in the hinges. now that you changed one thing you may need to inspect more. the door fit is triangular in nature. by this i mean it is primarily adjusted at the hinge points then the latch adjustment is the third. if the door sags at all or drops even a little when opening it, then it can move outward at the upper hinge upon slamming it. when there is slack it can get moved around in odd ways by changing the pressure points.

I've already replaced the bushings. I'm sure I just need to fiddle around with the hinges to line the door up better now.