Defective ignition lock and the and the consequences

Hi, yesterday I've started the car, had driven some miles, parked the car and went into the supermarket.
As I came back to leave, I could turn the ignition key without result. Only the aux position works. After some hours at work, thinking about the reason, I have had the ignition lock as suspect.

So some more hours later, I've grabbed a pincer and a screwdriver from work and got back to my bronco.
After removing the cover from the steering shaft, I've got access to the rod, that accesses the ignition switch. Now, when I turn the key, I can help to push the rod with the pincer to start the car.
Yes! it works! I was happy and set the gear to reverse to leave the parking spot. So far, so good!
Now I tried to set the gear to drive...no chance at all...so I've parked the car again and called the German ADAC to bring my Bronco home in my workshop. They came with a crane, cause I can't set the gear into neutral...

Today, I will see, what's the problem. But it doesn't matter what this problem caused, the thing is in this case, that a very small and seemingly not very important part has faild and causes that I was very helples...
Even if you carry some tools in the car, I think nobody will carry a steering wheel puller in the car...

I will post photos of what I'll find, later.

Oh my God! I've found the villain!





That's Bad! I'll look for this part and also a repair solution...

You apparently have a tilt wheel and that is the infamous 3E715.  It is a known problem for starting, and your description of using pincers/pliers to pull up on the rod is very common for that problem.  But I wasn't aware that it could also cause you not to be able to shift into gear.

Our page on Steering Columns discusses the problem and there are at least three links to how to fix it.  Here's one, but you can go to our page for the others.

That's one of the reasons I took the tilt column out of Big Blue and put a fixed column in.  I already had an intermittent no-start problem, and everything I read said that it would quit completely at some point.  And the cause is using the steering wheel to hoist yourself into the truck, which I do all the time.  So I decided that the ability to start in the back of beyond was more important than comfort.

Yes, if the broken part stucks, it's the same for the shift lever as when the steering lock is active.

Thanks for your link, it helps much, to be sure that all I've done was right and that I've nothing forgotten when reassembling.

As I've not the luxury to get parts here like in the USA, I have had to help myself with a M3 screw and 2K glue...





I think it will last a while...

I know what you mean, but I like the tilt so much...so, I'll keep it. Maybe I'll copy this actuator in my CAD software and let it CNC mill, made of some hard steel in my company sometimes in the future...

By now, everything except the steering wheel and the wiring of the turn signal switch is done.

Glad you are getting it fixed!  

And making one in steel would be a good idea.  

ReneH wrote

As I've not the luxury to get parts here like in the USA, I have had to help myself with a M3 screw and 2K glue...

Nice repair!

Thanks Gary, thanks Jeff.

I will order an original part in with my next order...only to be sure...from that part, I'll let build one made from steel...

My repaired part works well. But after reconnecting the turn signal switch, the left front signal and the status lamp inside the car for the left turn signal don't work anymore. The left back signal and everything on the right side works well.

It seems that I have connected something wrong, cause I have had already eliminated the connector of the switch. Looking about the cable colors won't help, cause the switch I've bought has other colors. Can I find here something about the cable colors?
Which cable of the switch has to meet which cable of the body wiring harness?
Otherwise I have to re-check my photos from when it has worked...

The 1986 EVTM always has the wire colors and circuits numbered.

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1986-evtm.html

Id say circuit 3 (light green and white)

Thanks Jim for your help. I'll take a look, this evening.

Hey Jim, you were on the right way!
I have changed a light green cable with one black dot with one that was also light green and has two black dots...

Now everything works fine.
Thanks for your help.

I'm glad you got it figured out, Rene!  

Apologies if I've mis-identified the wire colour.
I only have the diagram shown to work from.

Thanks, but no, your color was right! I've described the cable colors/markings that comes from the switch...

I hope it is okay to piggy back off this. My '86 with tilt column broke the exact same way last night. I wired in a push button to start it for now. Everything works like it should, other than due to the broken actuator, I cant get the key to push the switch hard enough to start it. Acc works, run works, steering lock works, it's a manual so no issue going into gear. Is there any issue leaving this as a temporary fix?

My column needs an overhaul and I don't have the time at the moment to do it. I hate to break it down twice if this 'fix' can hold me over

It's fine to ask.
We're well known for tangents and drifting subjects.

The only issue i can think is that (depending on how you've got it wired) it may bypass the clutch safety interlock.

If your connections are all at the ignition switch then even that is good.  👍

If you remove the cuff from the column, you can easily push the rod, that controls the ignition switch...you only have to turn the key to move the rod. If it's in on position, you can push the rod to start...

That's what I've done.

I forgot to mention that my clutch safety is bypassed anyways so I can start the truck without getting in.

I did remove my collar and start it with the rod to get home, it worked but i wired the button to make things easier for now