Dealer installed AC parts

Oh boy, the tension pulley disappeared a few days ago. Having trouble tracking this guy down.

This is an 86 straight six

I tried searching accessories for the York compressor part number with no luck.
488-22022B

You need to know who made the AC kit not just the compressor brand. There were/are a number of companies that make them. A good old fashioned parts store, like maybe NAPA may be able to match up the pulley. I would also suggest you get a smooth back belt as that tog cog belt is not helping the bearing in that pulley.

Some of those, you can replace the bearing if it is retained with a snap ring.

First one I've seen with a smooth pulley.  Does that really tension the belt?  Id think it would be to stop belt bounce on long runs which my Dealer A/C on my 302 has on the long belt run from the York compressor back to the crank.

What compressor is that?  Cause I tried looking in the parts and illustration guide and for dealer A/C it was only the Tecumseh/York offered and for a I6 the compressor was mounted on its side vertical.

It doesnt look like a FS-6 which was the compressor used by the factory.

Doesnt even look like the HR-980 compressor.

Tensioner on mine is a V belt pulley that you loosen a bolt on the back side of the mount put a wrench on it and rotate it to tension the belt.

This is looking less like a dealer install and more like a custom aftermarket job.

The truck has the adjustable tension pulley (factory) on the lower right.

I think it may be there to stop the bounce. Also, the but is touching the radiator hose connection.

It seems like this pulley is a "make it work" scenario.

Honestly it might be some aftermarket AC system like vintage air/old air products are today.  It honestly doesnt look like a dealer unit as below are taken from the parts and illustration guide and for the I6 there are two pages one for 80/ and one for 83/ and both of them have a Tecumseh/York compressor mounted up right and you tension it by loosening the four mounting bolts and sliding the compressor on the slotted mounting plate holes and tightening in place.  Its the same way they did it on the Mustangs in 66/67 where you moved the whole compressor to tension the belt.

Rusty, thank you for posting the diagrams.

My truck does have this bracket but it does not use the vertical style compressor. I thought this bracket looked very DIY.



I've ordered a 3 inch pulley from Amazon. I think it's actually for a mower. I will need to source a bolt and threaded spacer.

I'll post an update as my saga continues.

Its possible its a mix of a Ford Dealer AC and aftermarket AC.  Could be Dealer AC and someone got rid of the old york and put a newer compressor in its place.  I know I could put a Sanden 605 compressor in place of my York on my truck they sell an adapter plate that bolts to the York mounting points and converts it to the 605 sanden bolt pattern.

I will look over the drivetrain I removed with the comp still on it in the morning to see if it has anything like that. it's been months since it hit the pallet rack and I just don't remember but it is definitely a dealer air system made by ara.

She saved the pulley!

I've tried 3 different pulleys and none of them were going to work. I was looking a the engine with a flashlight and spotted the pulley down in the motor mount. This space is like a belly button for the straight six. All kinds of junk in there.

Anyway, in her infinite grace my dearest trucky held on to the pulley. It looks to be a 17mm inner diameter which is common but the outer diameter is 50 mm and is not very common.

Since the pulley runs on the back of the belt, any thoughts on using a more common pulley without side flanges or even using a serpentine pulley?

tanman wrote

She saved the pulley!

I've tried 3 different pulleys and none of them were going to work. I was looking a the engine with a flashlight and spotted the pulley down in the motor mount. This space is like a belly button for the straight six. All kinds of junk in there.

Anyway, in her infinite grace my dearest trucky held on to the pulley. It looks to be a 17mm inner diameter which is common but the outer diameter is 50 mm and is not very common.

Since the pulley runs on the back of the belt, any thoughts on using a more common pulley without side flanges or even using a serpentine pulley?

Clean the bearing up and look on the rubber seal on both sides there should be a part number on the seal that you can cross over to a modern bearing.

The bearing is a Fafnir 203P

Fafnir is now Timken but it appears to be a 17x40x12 bearing

Couldn't find a pulley though.

Still wondering if a 50-55 mm flat or serpentine idler pulley would work.

Can't you press the old bearing out and a new one in?

Gary, I will have to figure that out. I think this was a hardware failure. You can see in the original picture the assembly of the pulley does not look good.

The threaded hole in the bracket appears to be a 7/16 or M11

I think I need to find a bushing or reducer to get the 17mm inner diameter of the bearing to ride on a cap bolt that fits into the bracket.

Yes, if the bolt is smaller than the ID of the bearing you'll have a problem.

tanman wrote

The bearing is a Fafnir 203P

Fafnir is now Timken but it appears to be a 17x40x12 bearing

Couldn't find a pulley though.

Still wondering if a 50-55 mm flat or serpentine idler pulley would work.

Thats the bearing you need a 203P.  The brand doesnt matter much as Ive found automotive bearings like this uses some form of standardized part number that will cross over brands.

What you will need to do is press the bearing out to do this you will need to check both sides of the pulley as some pulleys will have a lip you press the bearing up against and some it doesn't matter.  Once you find this out you can use a vice and a large socket on one side and a smaller socket that fits the race on the other side to press the bearing out.  It is a press fit but you do not need a hydraulic press to remove it.

Once you get it removed, I recommend double checking the OD, I bet you the OD of the bearing will be 40 and your 50mm measurement was measuring to the taper to help start the bearing.

I do how ever recommend Timken brand bearings over other brands and their part number is 203P as well.

I personally would just replace the bearing vs trying to find another pulley.  Not only would it be cheaper but it will save you the time trying to find a pulley that is the right dimensions.

well, I got a good look at the assembly that I have in the shop. it is the exact same as you have. it seems as if yours may have come unbolted. have you found the bolt yet? I am intending to offer for sale the entire dealer ac system as it was from the beginning if someone wants to put it to use or use the parts. "Parts" is probably the best use.

I found a dayco pulley that may work.

Again I think the hardware failed as the pulley appears to be fine.

I will need to find a reducer to step the size down to hold an 11mm bolt.

I would be interested in the idler pulley assembly  pulley.

Does your setup have the bolt adjustable tension pulley near the power steering pump?

mat in tn wrote

well, I got a good look at the assembly that I have in the shop. it is the exact same as you have. it seems as if yours may have come unbolted. have you found the bolt yet? I am intending to offer for sale the entire dealer ac system as it was from the beginning if someone wants to put it to use or use the parts. "Parts" is probably the best use.

Yeah hes going to need the special bolt for that unless he can machine a spacer to mimic the bolt with the shoulder to properly fit the ID of the bearing.