Cab upgrades

Ok, so how does this effect time delay.
Granted there is virtually none, but I'm not understanding why I'd use front speaker out for the Sub-sub if there is a purpose dedicated channel.

Maintaining polarity is no issue.
All my plugs are polarized and all wires are coded.

Explain it like I'm a kindergartener, because I am.

Ok, first tell me what you mean by time delay.

the reason i am telling you to use the front left and right is because it is going to drive harder then the sub out.  you want the sub to be able to keep up with the speakers, and many dedicated subwoofer outputs are very low output and dont drive very hard.  Also the sub out has it's own crossover and is going to put out a week signal.  your sub has a crossover in it, thats what that control is for, its the crossover frequency.  all you really need to know about that is simply this, the lower the frequency is set, the less music you will hear and nothing but bass, once the system is connected and turned on, turn this control until it is pleasing to you.  you dont want it down to low, if you listen to normal music and by that i mean not rap.  set this control around 100 hz, but let your ears be the  juge on that.

I understand acoustics, and now I understand why you suggest what you do.

I'm an autist with perfect pitch, but that doesn't make me a connoisseur.

Yes, I want more than just 'thump' but I also have 3 other pair of speakers I can put on the back channels.

So, obviously I should rtfm before asking stupid questions.

I really do appreciate your advice!

Phase sync I guess?
I can place the Mic anywhere I want and get the channels to meet there  'in time'.

Again, it's not a stadium or an arena.
I guess "just because you can, doesn't mean you should"

Jim;   There are no stupid questions, just stupid answers and stupid people which is why i like this forum so much, people dont make you feel stupid here.

You are going to use 3 pair of speakers?

you dont have to just use the rear channels for the speakers.  you should be able to connect a pair to the front channels as well even though you are using the preamp outputs of the front channel to drive the sub.

( if for some reason you can't, which i cant see why, then you are going to have to use the sub out maybe )  First, if the radio isnt installed, get it powered up, connect a pair of speakers to the front channels, and connect the sub to make sure it will drive both at the same time.  it should.  If it does not, we will use the sub output.  I'll explain that below.

Lets assume, it is going to work the way i say.
First, i need you to look at the specifications for each of your speakers.  The spec i am looking for is SPL it is going to be a figure in db.     example  SPL 1watt, 1 meter = 93db, or it will say SPL and give you the db figure.   This is going to tell you how loud the speaker is going to play.    They all should be somewhere around the same, but you are going to want to put the ones that have the lowest SPL on the front channels.   The other 2 pairs, put on the rear amplifier, but series the the pairs, do not parallel them.  If you parallel them the amp will see a 2 ohm load, and that is to low ( i dont care what anybody says, i dont care if it says 2 ohm stable, it is not,  2 ohm's is to close to DC and if you are listening rather loud, your amp will spit out dc during some musical passages.  this can cause amplifier damage and speaker damage.  The speaker output of a amplifier is an ac circuit, continous clipping of DC at the output will short the output devices and in some cases shoot dc straight into the speaker causing the cone to seize).  Car audio should not be 4 ohms anymore, it had to be back in the day to get power out of the old car radio's, but this is not the case anymore, but for some reason they stuck with 4 ohms.  And you see all these things that say 2 ohm stable.   The sony is rated to deliver 45 watts into a 4 ohm speaker.  If you connect an 8 ohm speaker to it, it will put out 22.5 watts, if you connect a 2 ohm speaker, it will put out 90 watts.  This is how the tricks are played.     ( i hope i'm not loosing you here )  but to tell you the truth, watts is general and means nothing in all actuallity.  Car audio does not give you true RMS watts, so the point is totally useless.  It's kind of like horse power.   The sony says it is 45 watts, in honesty, it is probably 35, unless you see a figure in your specifications that would state exactly this.  45 watts RMS all channels driven into a 4 ohm load.  ok enough of that

Back to spl.   If you have a speaker that has a figure of 90 spl, and you have another speaker that has a figure of 93 spl, the speaker with 93 spl will play twice as loud as the one that is 90.  As you go up 3 db, you get twice as loud.  The higher this number, the easier the speaker is going to be on the amplifier, the lower the number, the harder the speaker is to drive

Did i loose you yet?


Now on to the wireing

You mention something about time delay.  I think i know what you are talking about.  I am an audiophile and am very fortunate that i have someone that can hand build amplifiers for me, and i've built many speakers that have made snobby audiophiles jaws drop....

To avoid any type of time delay.  make sure all your speaker wires are somewhere near equal length, they can be a foot or so longer, but dont go any further then that, even if you have to punch a bit of wore up and tuck it somewhere.  this will take care of that.

On the radio.  turn all the gadgets off, meaning if it has different settings for things like  different things like hall, arena, different things like that.  If it has any settings for crossover's on the speakers, leave all that off.  Once you get everything connected and you find your speakers are putting out to much bass, i'll tell you what to do.  You do want them to put out bass, one problem with using a sub is people direct all the bass to the sub and none to the speakers and it ends up having a giant hole in the sound and just does not sound right which is why i told you to set the crossover on the sub rather high around 100 hz, doing this is going to give you a very full sound.

with all this said.

Front channel.  connect the sub to the rca outputs
Front channel  connect the pair of speakers with the lowest spl to these

Back channel.  2 pairs of speakers.   On each side, positive speaker wire from amplifier to the positive of speaker 1, negative terminal of speaker 1 connected to the positive of speaker 2, speaker 2's negative is connected to the amplifiers negative.  Do this for the other side as well.  This is going to give you 8 ohms.  and a safe load for your radio.  it is also going to allow all of the speakers to play at basically the same level.

let me know how this works out.    I have to work until 3 today, so let me know if you fool with it.  if you have any issues, email me, if not, ill check wheni get back home.

i'll get you through it

George

Jim, seriously, if you dont understand anything, dont feel stupid, just ask

Damn, George, maybe I need to get with you on my Konvertible project.

Lol!
I don't intend to have a dozen speakers in the cab.
But, I might want one of those three pair on the rear channel.

I used to have this box stuffed behind my seat, and it really made a big difference over just door speakers.



Thank you for taking the time to explain it to five year old me.  😛

Also, I do understand that:

1) speakers are the same as any resistor. That's why they're rated in ohms.
And how resistors behave in parallel, series or combination.

2) that decibel is a logarithmic scale.
I've been involved in a lot of things like ham radio DX'ng, and tiny transmitters.
So, antenna design and miniscule broadcast wattages I know a little about.

Also I've done a lot of really loud things (rockets, firearms, racing)  

3) of course speaker input is a wave. How else could an analog device create sound?
You need frequency and amplitude to do that.

4) I don't ever feel stupid. I'm aspergiean, so I'm a font of useless information and minutiae.
People tell me I'm incredibly intelligent, but 95% of the time I'm five years old.

I appreciate you're taking the time. Hopefully I'll be able to help you some day.

Thanks George!  

A speakers resistance and a resistor is a completely different thing.  if a speaker is rated at 4 ohms, it means it is 4 ohms in a room with no air in it, as soon as air touches the cone it changes, it does not stay constant ever  which is why when you go down to 2 ohms it is way to low.  On a typical 8 ohm speaker when it is playing, it can go way up and way down in ohms and everywhere between depending on the musical passage being played at any one particular time

sure jim, come help me change my manifolds this weekend, LOL.  bending over that hood is a killer working on the 300

Butis had something similar with 4 15's way back n the day

Bill, just let me know, if i can help

Im assuming this is coil and not piezo.

I can see that the diaphragm acting against (whatever medium) is going to need current to move.
And this would effect -resistance-

Have you ever worked with sonar or ultrasonic?

My dad was a development engineer on the CUSA cauterizing surgical scalpel.
It never really touches flesh. It kinda parts it like a force field (or Moses)
The laser scalpels on the other hand have absolutely no tactile feedback.
Cooper LaserSonics became a division of Pfizer, and I don't know what happened after that.

It was cool to play with that stuff when I was young.
All the magnatrons and other radar things from Norden as well.

I should have kept up with the electronics (and bought Intel in '76!)

ArdWrknTrk wrote

It never really touches flesh. It kinda parts it like a force field (or Moses)

Now that's interesting! Albeit the thought brought up the Pet Sematary achilles tendon scene so could have passed on that but still very interesting

My father worked in a lot of wavelenghts, from sound through light.
Military applications are still classified but plenty of it has spilled over to aviation and medicine, and even consumer products.

While I enjoyed radio and microwave most, there was a lot of stuff happening in my formative years.

Ok, so back to my truck...

I ran into a little more than anticipated (of course! Why not?)
And ended up having to make a couple of framesavers from the old cab mount uppers.

Not much room to work, at all, but this little Horrid Fate lunchbox welder is a champ!
My phone is charging so pics later....

I had to get the right side fixed before I could continue.
And I don't want to go into all the curveballs that entailed.

But I'm back on track and going to finish this insulation, mat and wiring if I have to plug the coffee to stay awake.
For now getting cleaned up and a bite to eat before I get back to it.

Cool deal Jim.  Good luck.   we got thrown a bunch of curve balls here too, were hoping to have the truck somewhat put back together by now, but the manifold had to rear its ugly head so to speak, but then again, glad it happened now before we put all the ac stuff in to be in the way

Jim.  Was your dad in the military?