Bezel dash fitment

My first official "help" post!
The pictures are of the bezel dash cluster from my 1986 f150 flareside. I bought a new bezel on e bay because the last one was hacked, and the last one also had this gap  between glass and bezel. My thought was once I got the new bezel, I would learn why there was a gap when I swapped out new for old.
I do not know enough about what is supposed to be there, versus why this is gap. Is it missing spacers or something? I really am hoping that I don't have to  take off the whole gauge/speedo/tach cluster (scary). Can anybody give me some insights as to why this big gap and how to fix it?

Does the cluster [not the bezel] move with gentle rocking?

Nope, solid as a rock.

See if this helps:

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=YouTube+removing+instrument+cluster+F150+1986&view=detail&mid=D0C6FC1B0752819AA268D0C6FC1B0752819AA268&FORM=VIRE

Thank you, I had looked at this video several times before switching out the bezel. I did not take off/out the instrument panel. I did not see a need to. But, from looking at the video, I do not see spacers or anything that would make the cluster go back towards the front of the truck 1/2"-3/4". Am I missing something. That is a good video.

Make certain the bottom of the bezel is in the slots. It must drop down. If not in the slots, the bottom of the bezel will be farther away from the instrument cluster.

Remember, the bottom of the bezel must go in first.

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Hmmm... the bezel appears to be in the slots, so is it possible the slotted area has been tweaked back? Looking at the photo showing the brake pedal, there is a hole [bottom] and perhaps a missing screw. I am reaching for straws, here.

Thank you for reaching for those straws. I am scratching my head also. I just don’t understand why it isn’t lining up. I think the hole you see is where there was something attached at one time maybe a CB or something.
 I’m hoping to wake up one morning and go out and the gap will be gone but until that happens I’d like to ask opinions about if there could be some kind of molding I could put in there that would look nice and not distract from the dash. Does anybody have any ideas about that?

As to the molding idea, get some weather stripping foam with the sticky backside [Lowes, Home Depot], but that will only hide the gap and not find out why.

I would take it all apart... there has to be a reason. By the way, on the YouTube video, the man had difficulty removing the electrical plug and kept tugging. I believe there are two tabs on the ends which need to be squeezed and the plug will come out. Regarding the speedometer, you feel for the round end of the cable, where it attaches to the speedometer head and shift it to one side. It is spring loaded and will only come off one way. Once you get it off, you will easily understand how it reattaches.

I look forward to hearing what you find.

Yep I know the moulding only hides it; doesn’t fix the problem. I’ll let you know how I make out.

One final stab... maybe, someone over-tightened the bottom screws which secure the instrument cluster. Perhaps the plastic, in which the screws hold, was broken [?] and the screw then bit further in and pulled the bottom of the instrument cluster forward???

Okay, here is the deal with the bezel vs the cluster. The cluster mounts to the hard plastic dash shell. The bezel has lower tabs that tuck into it but the upper screws actually fasten to the padded dash substructure. I am betting 99% that your dash pad is not correctly seated and is holding the bezel forward.

Sometimes it is difficult to get the bezel back as far as it is supposed to go because the top screws aren't grabbing into the dash pad as they are supposed to do.  You don't want to really tighten them down too much as you can break the tabs, but they do need to snug down pretty well.

I've had to lift the front edge of the dash pad to get the bezel to go back in all the way as it seems the upper tabs catch on the pad.  So lift the tab and push on the bezel to see if that helps.

Good point Gary, I have to lift up on my dash for the bezel tabs to clear also. Once they clear it pretty much falls right into place but every fitment is different. I’m guessing by how commonly the screw tabs are broken that owners often don’t have the bezel seated properly before tightening.

 I want to thank everybody for their help and their ideas. I really worked the dash pad and the bezel, Got everything lined up perfectly, added some new screws and washers, and although not perfect I gained about 3/8 of an inch. Much better than it was. I guess I was afraid to manipulate the bezel and really push it in. I can push it all the way flush with the dash window,  but it will not stay.  The temperature is supposed to be in the high 90s here in the Dakotas over the weekend, I am going to leave my truck out in the sun and see if I can’t gain the rest of the needed space to get that bezel flush!  Stay tuned!

Good input Jonathan and Gary!