Alternator replace, advice please

Dave,
LRC (load response control) regulators are white instead of grey and are common in luxobarges like big Lincoln's.
They were designed to eliminate hunting idle when power accessories like heated adjusting seats and limos with two AC systems kick on.

Not really any more expensive in the aftermarket.
They are available with different ramp times.
This has been discussed in the other thread.

I had belt slippage on Darth even with the polygroove belt and no Thermactor pump (more pulley wrap), I installed a slightly larger pulley, and no more problem.

After careful consideration, im just ordering the 130 amp from DB electric as this seems like the smart and financially prudent option. After digging deeper, oreily was only selling reman 1g. And any 2 or 3g were also reman and cost considerably more than DBs $78 new alternator.

Will be visiting a yard tomorrow or the day after in search of wiring harness, charge cable, and fuse. Ideally all in one shot like the one on the write up. I believe i am looking for a mid 90s ford? Truck, tarus, or aerostar correct?

Yes, that should do.

In another recent thread I listed all the items needed with part numbers and cost.
It came to $35 to have everything new, compared to the $80 cost of the Painless 3G wiring conversion kit.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Yes, that should do.

In another recent thread I listed all the items needed with part numbers and cost.
It came to $35 to have everything new, compared to the $80 cost of the Painless 3G wiring conversion kit.

Thank you! For ease of reference i found the post i think.
http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/1982-Bronco-Alternator-wiring-mess-tp28361p28708.html
http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/1982-Bronco-Alternator-wiring-mess-tp28361p28817.html

I understand how it is to be in a tight spot and needing the truck as a DD.

If you are going this route and the parts list was helpful, perhaps Gary could include it in the resource page.

I can make every item a clickable link but over time URL's become dead so maybe that's not a great idea..

I wish you luck and hope BuggTruck is back to charging better than ever soon.

Jim - If you make the items hot-links I'll copy all that over.  But you said the Resource page and I was thinking the 3G swap page.  So, how 'bout both?

And while the links will break over time, perhaps if we choose wisely they'll last for quite a while.

I hope to get some quiet time on Wednesday or Thursday when I can work on this.

I'm sorry for my vernacular Gary...
I meant to differentiate a static page here at the garagemahal from an ongoing thread.
I see that as a resource, rather than banter or Q&A

I'll see if I can find some time to tether my tablet, as using nabble on my phone is a 'challenge'.  

I found the recommended db electric alternator on amazon with guaranteed 2 day prime shiping with delivery on Wednesday. Was only a few dollars more ($82.80 + tax) but i trust Amazon to get it here very quickly and easier to return if needed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XUIF52/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kpCeDbJWY79KT

On the hotlink note, do you have an amazon referral account? Its not much return but you would get a tiny amount $$$ anytime someone were to click through and buy from your amazon referral links.

I am a bit lost though on your $35 price list, i dont see the actual plug that snaps on the alternator.  Will this work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSILIR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CKDeDb8S9KV40

There are two plugs that connect to the alternator. The regulator plug and the stator plug.
So you need the Pico 5747PT as well.
In that thread you linked I posted an eBay 'buy it now' that is selling the plugs as a set for less than either.

I don't have an Amazon referral account. But if you use Amazon Smile, I would much rather the pennies (or tenths) go to a charity of your choosing.

Sorry, I misunderstood what you mean.  I thought you meant the Resources page.  Anyway, we will get it done.

It was my misuse of verbiage....

I'll be the first to admit I don't have this interwebz thing figured out, even though I started with a 14k modem and CompuServe address back in the day of Usenet newsgroups.

So, yeah, the 3G conversion page.
Not any of the 3G conversion threads.

Okay really appreciate you double checking me, very excited to get my alternator upgraded! I further clarification question.

I understand where the 175 ampfuse goes but where does the 20 amp fuse go? Is the intention for a 20 amp fuse in line on the yellow/white? This i felt is unclear.

I'm looking through this whole thread and at the 3G conversion tutorial Gary has posted.
No mention of the 20A fuse.
So I'm going to assume you're looking at the EVTM and seeing a 20A fuse before the charge indicator light. The Lt Grn/Red wire that supplies exicter power to the alternator.

That fuse is in the trucks fuse panel.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I'm looking through this whole thread and at the 3G conversion tutorial Gary has posted.
No mention of the 20A fuse.
So I'm going to assume you're looking at the EVTM and seeing a 20A fuse before the charge indicator light. The Lt Grn/Red wire that supplies exicter power to the alternator.

That fuse is in the trucks fuse panel.

On the wiring page, theres a 20 amp fuse in the pulled harness and Gary says his doesnt have one but that it is nessacary.

Gary Lewis - Wiring Tab - 3g conversion wrote

(If you look closely, in the picture above the yellow/white wire connects to the alternator side of the fuse and is protected by the 20 amp fuse in the fuse holder.)  But, my harness does not have a fuse, and some form of circuit protection is absolutely necessary.  See below.

BuggTruck wrote

On the wiring page, theres a 20 amp fuse in the pulled harness and Gary says his doesnt have one but that it (SOME FORM OF CIRCUIT PROTECTION IS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY)is nessacary.

Gary Lewis - Wiring Tab - 3g conversion wrote

(If you look closely, in the picture above the yellow/white wire connects to the alternator side of the fuse and is protected by the 20 amp fuse in the fuse holder.)  But, my harness does not have a fuse, and some form of circuit protection is absolutely necessary.  See below.

"See below" mentions the 175A Megafuse or 150A circuit breaker....

My home made harness doesn't have a 20A fuse.
Gary's Ford factory harness doesn't have a 20A fuse.
If the 20A fuse in the regulator feedback wire were to fail the alternator would be constantly putting out its whole 130A (or trying to)

I think Gary needs to clarify that in the 'wiring it' page.

Good point, Jim. 👍

We are out and about with the grandtwins today, so I certainly appreciate you staying on top of this. They may be going elsewhere tomorrow so I might have a chance to work on the page then. Or Thursday or Friday.

Gary,
I'm going to suggest changing verbiage to something like this.

I already know how verbose I am.  
Steve seems to have a thing for grammar, syntax and spelling, so maybe he has a better suggestion but I'm no english major and I'm working with what I've got

Gary Lewis - Wiring Tab - 3g conversion wrote

If you look closely, in the picture above the **Lt Grn/Red** wire connects to the alternator side of the fuse and is protected by the 20 amp fuse in the fuse holder, but my harness does not have a fuse.

Some form of charge circuit protection is absolutely necessary.
This can be a 175A Megafuse, or a 150A circuit breaker inline with the thick charge cable as shown below

Jim - I had to go back to the 3G Alternator Conversion page to see the context, which is:

In that pic his thumb is on the output cable coming from the alternator and it is pointing at a 175 amp fuse in a nice holder that can be mounted on your inner fender near the starter relay.  And his pointer finger is touching the stator connector and pointing at the regulator connector.  Everything you need in one go.

But, there are other Ford harnesses available.  Here's one I found on a Ford in the salvage.  In this one you can clearly see the white/black stator wire coming out of the alternator and wrapping back to go into the alternator at the regulator plug.  And, you can see the yellow/white that comes from the regulator's plug and is connected to the big output terminal.  (If you look closely, in the picture above the yellow/white wire connects to the alternator side of the fuse and is protected by the 20 amp fuse in the fuse holder.)  But, my harness does not have a fuse, and some form of circuit protection is absolutely necessary.  See below.

And I do see the problem.  The "and some form of circuit protection is absolutely necessary" was intended for the output wire, not the sense wire.  But the way it is written it seems to be saying that circuit protection is absolutely needed for the sense wire.

So I like your upgrade, but maybe it should be something like:

If you look closely, in the picture above the yellow/white wire connects to the alternator side of the fuse and is protected by the 20 amp fuse in the fuse holder, but my harness does not have a fuse.

That fuse failing would lead to an overcharge situation because the regulator would not sense any voltage in the truck or battery.

But some form of charge circuit protection, meaning in the output wiring, is absolutely necessary.  This can be a 175A Megafuse, or a 150A circuit breaker inline with the thick charge cable as shown below

Obviously since we've suggested that the sense wire be wrapped back to the output we don't think protection on it is necessary, much less absolutely necessary.  So I'm glad you caught that.