Alt belt.

I had no idea that an '82 302 showed curb idle at 525 rpm on the emissions sticker.
That seems pretty crazy given how incredibly neutered that engine was in a truck.  I guess i only clearly recollect how my '85 GT was supposed to be set.

If RJM's pages were still up you would see the video of just how much a properly installed 3G can put out at low rpm. Perhaps Gary or Chris Tubutis has those pages saved locally for posterity?

Anyone who wants a 'one wire' alternator cares more about eliminating their harness than having a properly functioning vehicle.

I don't have the pages and can't find them on the Wayback Machine.  Maybe Chris does?

I remember the two of you discussed it when we realized Ryan was AWOL and the RJM + Old (nee Ford) Fuel Injection websites were going to vanish.

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I had no idea that an '82 302 showed curb idle at 525 rpm on the emissions sticker.
That seems pretty crazy given how incredibly neutered that engine was in a truck.  I guess i only clearly recollect how my '85 GT was supposed to be set.

If RJM's pages were still up you would see the video of just how much a properly installed 3G can put out at low rpm. Perhaps Gary or Chris Tubutis has those pages saved locally for posterity?

Anyone who wants a 'one wire' alternator cares more about eliminating their harness than having a properly functioning vehicle.

Yep, on my original decal it says for engines with less than 100 miles (brand new trucks) curb idle with A/C off was 525 rpm, with A/C on its 600 rpm.  Once you exceed 100 miles it adds 50 rpm to the idle bumping curb idle with A/C off to 575 rpm and 650 rpm with A/C on.

Also says fast idle is to be 2,000 rpm which I felt was always way too high, I turned mine down to 1,500 rpm for fast idle.  For my new roller build my goal is to shoot for 550 rpm idle speed with 650 rpm idle speed with A/C on.  I think my roller cam is small enough that it should be able to smoothly idle at that speed.

That is a huge reason why I decided to go with a 3G upgrade is with the sniper efi system it won't be like it is now where idle speed in neutral will be say 700 rpm and will only drop to 500 rpm when in gear.  It will always be 500 rpm as that is the target speed, so I need a good alternator to put out amperage at low engine idle speed.  Currently I don't have a stepper for my dealer A/C but I will have my idle speed raised up as 550 rpm would be way too slow for the A/C to work efficiently.

For power output I filed away the test sheet that came with my alternator that gave a power curve for the output.  From what I can see on the chart this is what it appears to be output wise, this is alternator rpm not engine rpm.

1000 rpm : 5A
1200 rpm : 25A
1400 rpm : 45A
1600 rpm : 65A
1800 rpm : 90A
2000 rpm : 102A

The following is engine rpm / alternator rpm with the pulley ratio I am running.

525 - 1600
550 - 1676
575 - 1752
600 - 1829
625 - 1905
650 - 1981

So, for me at idle I should be putting out around 65A with the A/C off and with the A/C on I should be putting around 90A out.  For me I should no longer have A/C blower motor slowing down when I come to an idle and then speeding back up when I come off idle, and I think 65A at idle is way more than I need as what I calculated I think was around 75A @ 14.5v which also included adding four more 100w auxiliary lights.

Sadly there are a lot of people out there that believe one wire alternators are superior.  They are also the same people that are running chinese modified GM HEI distributors on their Ford engines thinking they are superior.

Roller cam? You rich kids make me sick.

And no, those chinese hei's are not better. Nor are the one wires. They are easier, and that is the key word. That's also why Sbc's are so popular. They aren't better. They're cheaper.

Ifitaintbroke wrote

Roller cam? You rich kids make me sick.

And no, those chinese hei's are not better. Nor are the one wires. They are easier, and that is the key word. That's also why Sbc's are so popular. They aren't better. They're cheaper.

Yep roller cam, roller rockers, AFR cylinder heads, Sniper 4150 Stealth.

I spared no expense in my engine build as I have no plans to build another engine for my truck lol.

Did you ever get it dyno'd? That sounds pretty spicy.

Ifitaintbroke wrote

Did you ever get it dyno'd? That sounds pretty spicy.

Havent gotten it installed yet.  Some of the parts I am wanting to get are still on back order.  Like the stainless steel Y-pipe I want to run its currently on back order.  Im hopeful that next year will be the year as I only have a hand full of parts to get to be able to install the engine.  From there I hope to get a dyno done after I swap transmissions and change rear axle ratios out.

My goal was always a modest 300hp which would be over double the power output of the oe smog 302, realistically my specs are fairly similar to the 306 crate engine from blueprint that they rate at 385hp using their in house made non CNC machined heads and slightly larger roller cam compared to my CNC machined Renegade 165 heads that flows more.  So from a dyno I expect to see some where around 345 - 380 hp at the flywheel for my build.

Im also anxious to see how it will sound as I have OE sized 6" round muffler but its in 2 1/2" inlet/outlet and its a Magnaflow XL 3-chamber muffler and I am going to have a local exhaust shop bend a OE style tail pipe in 2 1/2" vs the OE 2 1/4"

That should be a beast. Don't know if you've seen my build thread, but I'm running ported factory iron. I had a set of Eddy heads, and was going to stroke mine out to a 547ci, but I could not get a hold of the pistons to facilitate that.

It sucks that Venolia is gone (by any real measure)

Wiseco/Carrillo will make anything you want if your pockets are deep enough.

Well, if $1100 for the set I ordered wasn't enough, I don't think anything is. I ordered the pistons thru Summit,(after calling the supplier and verifying they had a set in stock), were supposed to ship next day. Waited about a week, nothing. Emailed them and they said they were out of stock. I just canceled the order and, after many attempts to figure something out on my own, went with Scotty J's Towpak build. First use(before registration) will be stump pulling. 4WD LOW!!!

Parkland Performance (nee Reincarnation Automotive) builds a STOUT engine.
I'm sure you won't be disappointed in Scotty's work.

You better have a beefy driveline if you're actually stump pulling.
Trees don't move (amhik)

I had the short block done by a local shop, but everything was done according to Scotty's specs. I ported the heads myself. The stumps are mostly rotted out, or less than 6 inches in diameter. Even so, I'll try to take is easy.

A suggestion is to run your chain/cable over a spare rim near the stump.
Then you're pulling it out, instead of across the ground.

It's kind of like having a freestanding snatch block

I subscribed to his porting directions.
I may be a little aggressive with my die grinder.

You should look at some of his old YouTube videos.
He and his brother bombing around in giant '70's land yachts.
It's a hoot!!!

That sounds like a good idea. And yes, I used his intructions.