Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

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Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Rembrant
Has anybody done this before?

Or, have you heard of or read that someone did it successfully?

1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Gary's New Test Name
I've done it twice.  Once with an Xacto knife and once with the mill.  In reality I like the Xacto knife approach better.  Less chance of messing up.  On the mill if you turn the handle the wrong way you have a divit.
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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Rembrant
Awesome!

I was more curious about how to attach the clock itself once the holes are cut? I assumed that the factory clock bezels had mounting bosses for screws on the back side?
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Gary's New Test Name
No, the clock mounts to the dash and the bezel just cover it.
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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Oops, didn't realize I was logged in as my alter ego.  
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Rembrant
In reply to this post by Gary's New Test Name
Gary's New Test Name wrote
No, the clock mounts to the dash and the bezel just cover it.
Oh, cool. I didn't know that. Excellent. Sounds like I will be cutting a bezel to install a factory clock then. What are the chances this 41 year old clock will still be operational?...lol.

By the way, I didn't know until recently that there were a couple versions of the factory clocks. A guy had a couple different ones for sale on Facebook. The earlier ones had different buttons, etc.

Anyway, can they be fixed if not working, or are they a replace only item?
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Most of the clocks I've tested have been good.  However, the switches themselves are frequently a problem.  I've had to push hard to get them to start working.  And in most cases you can't get to the switches to clean them.

There were actually three different clocks, as shown on our page at Documentation/Electrical/Clocks.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

salans7
Following because I may do the same since I have the wiring for the clock in the truck already.

For what it's worth, the first iteration of the clock had a metal backing, and a rubber electrical connector, basically like a trailer plug. The second iteration also had a metal backing, but with a traditional plastic connector. The third iteration switched to a plastic rear housing, and were much lighter.
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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Rusty_S85
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Why I am on the hunt for a NOS clock, the one I have works but when it comes time to changing the time you have to press the button down and slide it to the side to make it register.  Real pain when you need to change the date or time but its good enough for the time being till I can source a NOS unit.
"Old Blue" - '56 Fairlane Town Sedan - 292-4V, Ford-O-Matic transmission, 3.22:1
'63 Belair 2dr sdn - 283-4V, Powerglide transmission, 4.56:1
'78 Cougar XR7 - 351-2V, FMX transmission, 2.75:1 9inch
"Bruno" - '82 F150 Flareside - 302-2V, C6 transmission, 2.75:1 9inch, 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2
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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

BullnoseLuvr
I made this swap and the buttons weren’t working. I disassembled the clock and cleaned the button contacts with deoxit contact cleaner — works like new.
‘84 F150 4x4 351W 4sp. Regular cab, long bed, all original. '69 Continental MK III. Older restoration. '95 Saab 900S Convertible. '05 Saab 9-3 ARC Convertible 2.0T. Lime Yellow. '09 Saab 9-3 AERO Convertible 2.8T. Sand Beige top. '13 MINI Cooper Factory JCW 6sp. '01 H-D Sportster. '03 Yamaha FZ-1.
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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Rembrant
In reply to this post by Gary's New Test Name
Gary's New Test Name wrote
I've done it twice.  Once with an Xacto knife and once with the mill.  In reality I like the Xacto knife approach better.  Less chance of messing up.  On the mill if you turn the handle the wrong way you have a divit.
Gary,

When you say Xacto knife, you mean you cut the holes all the way through with the knife? That plastic is 1/8" thick and I tried it last night with a brand new blade and it wasn't very easy to cut lol. I used a busted up bezel I have as a sample spare, so I can get this right before I ruin a good one.
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Yes, but it is tough!  Were I to do it again w/o using the mill I'd drill holes in the plastic and use a hacksaw blade to cut out the rough opening.  Then use a file to take it down to a nice, clean line.

That's the approach I used recently on the opening for the switches in the medium duty bezel.  I like it because it is controllable.  And slow.  Much less chance of making a mistake.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Rembrant
Gary Lewis wrote
Yes, but it is tough!  Were I to do it again w/o using the mill I'd drill holes in the plastic and use a hacksaw blade to cut out the rough opening.  Then use a file to take it down to a nice, clean line.

That's the approach I used recently on the opening for the switches in the medium duty bezel.  I like it because it is controllable.  And slow.  Much less chance of making a mistake.
Ya, I was trying to think of another way to do it also. I have a nice diamond cutting wheel for my Dremel, but it will melt a cutting through. Maybe If I run it slow, and leave some burrs that I can file smooth afterwards.
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Gary Lewis
Administrator
LOL!  When I used the sabre saw on the behind-the-seat storage unit the plastic melted and then rejoined behind the blade.  It took several passes in order to get a clear cut.  So I understand the melting bit.

My Dremel won't go low enough to not melt the plastic with any cutting tools I have.  So on delicate things I go to a hacksaw blade, with a plastic handle on it, and do it by hand.  Slowly.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Rusty_S85
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Gary Lewis wrote
Yes, but it is tough!  Were I to do it again w/o using the mill I'd drill holes in the plastic and use a hacksaw blade to cut out the rough opening.  Then use a file to take it down to a nice, clean line.

That's the approach I used recently on the opening for the switches in the medium duty bezel.  I like it because it is controllable.  And slow.  Much less chance of making a mistake.
I did it two different ways.  On mine I did the drilled hole technique and used a razor to cut the small gaps then use the razor to shave the opening smooth.  One at work I used a hacksaw blade on it and it worked better but it did leave a little discoloration where as the razor left a decent color.
"Old Blue" - '56 Fairlane Town Sedan - 292-4V, Ford-O-Matic transmission, 3.22:1
'63 Belair 2dr sdn - 283-4V, Powerglide transmission, 4.56:1
'78 Cougar XR7 - 351-2V, FMX transmission, 2.75:1 9inch
"Bruno" - '82 F150 Flareside - 302-2V, C6 transmission, 2.75:1 9inch, 31x10.50-15 BFG KO2
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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

kramttocs
Administrator
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
I had good luck cutting my bezel (to enlarge for double din) using a scroll saw. Had to go slow to avoid the melting but made for a clean cut and I could make it quite a ways before it started getting hot. Would require some foam or something to get the clock area flat so you aren't cutting a bevel.
Scott
'Camano' 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6
'Chanute' 1980 F350 C&C 400/NP 435 - Gin Pole

But there ain't nothin' wrong with the radio
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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Rembrant
In reply to this post by Rembrant
So I finally tackled this job tonight. I ended up doing it with a metal blade in my Jigsaw. I first cut around each opening with a utility knife so that gave me a little better visual line to follow without cutting too deep. I then smoothed out all the edges with a flat file, and I must say it turned out pretty well. I was a little scared to cut into it, but once I drilled a starter hole, I was committed...lol. I just washed it up, but I'll be painting it tomorrow night if all goes well.



Here is the one I removed from the truck. I used it as a test piece for my paints. I did it in a Krylon Satin Black. It didn't sit as nicely as I wanted on the smooth surface, but it worked great on the weave pattern, so when I paint the good one I'm going to do it a little differently.



1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Well done, Cory!  

I fully understand the feeling of not really wanting to make that first cut.  But once you drill that hole.....

So what are you doing differently on the paint?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Rembrant
Gary Lewis wrote
Well done, Cory!  

I fully understand the feeling of not really wanting to make that first cut.  But once you drill that hole.....

So what are you doing differently on the paint?
The Jigsaw actually worked pretty good with a fine toothed metal blade...but still, you have to be super careful as it walks through that plastic with ease. Having pre-cut the edges with an Xacto knife made the lines a little easier to follow. I suppose I should have checked to make sure the clock even worked before I went through all the trouble...lol, but anyway. I took the clock apart and the contacts are shiny clean, so hopefully it is OK. Being an early 1980 it is the old style clock with a 4 pin plug like a trailer connector.

As for the paint...I'm not 100% happy with how the paint went on the flat surface, so I might mask that off on the bezel just in case. That is what I did with the instrument bezel...I masked off some of the flat smooth surfaces, and just focused on the weave pattern and edges.
1994 F150 4x2 Flareside. 5.0 w/MAF, 4R70W, stock.
1984 F150 4X2 Flareside. Mild 302 w/ 5spd. Sold.
1980 F150 4X4 Flareside. 300i6 w/ 5spd. Sold in 2021.
1980 F100 4X2 Flareside. 351w/2bbl w/NP435. Sold in 1995

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Re: Adding a factory clock to a non-clock radio bezel?

Gary Lewis
Administrator
Did the metal blade not cause enough heating of the plastic for it to fuse again behind the blade?  That's the problem I've been having.

On the paint, is it too shiny or what on the flat surfaces?  I'm pretty happy with the two bezels I have on Big Blue, but they aren't a perfect match so I might paint them - some day.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile

Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/ZF5/3.55's, D60 w/Ox locker & 10.25 Sterling/Trutrac, Blue Top & Borgeson, & EEC-V MAF/SEFI

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