A/C conversation

I wanted to confirm if my 86 bronco uses the old outdated - not available R12 freon? That is what I suspect and was so disappointed to learn today. So that are the recommendations for converting over is that a big pain in the butt and wallet? And suggestions please. Mat I know you’re out there quit ghosting me 😂

Good rule of thumb is 1995 when OBDI was phased out for OBDII was roughly the same time R134A came out.  Realistically it was a little earlier but it was still in the late part of the early 1990s.  We had a '92 Astro van that was still R12 from the factory.  So there is no doubt your Bronco was R12 from the factory.

The million dollar question is, was it converted over or not.  Good sign is the fittings but you cant always go by that.  My '82 F150 I converted myself to R134A but I still use the R12 fittings as the R134A fittings will fit but they are too close to my dealer installed York compressor that you cant get the quick disconnect fitting on so I had to retain the R12 fittings.

It is why decent shops have a refrigerant tester that samples the system and informs you what it is before you hook up your recovery machine and contaminate your refrigerant.  I have seen everything from propane to a blend of R12 and R134A down to R22 even.  If you are at all doubtful of what is in the system and you dont have the tester your best bet is to just vent the system empty and pull a vacuum on it for an hour to ensure all the vapors are pulled out of the system.  Then open the system up and run some good quality AC flush through the system and start from scratch on pag oil (many say to use mineral oil in conversions but we've always used pag oil with no adverse effect) and R134A.  Just keep in mind R134A is going up in price cause it appears R134A is going the way of R12 in favor of the flamable R1234YF that the new cars are using which is still a few hundred dollars for a 10lb can.  I dont think youll find a 30lb can of R134A anymore for under $200.  If you do I suggest you buy as much as you can afford and stock it up, its going to become gold like R12 did after they ceased production.

not ghosting! I may actually be able to claim my move complete. not organized to a working system by any means but I'm getting back to work. the 1986 was and is a r12 refrigerant system! converting it to 134a is the industry standard at this time. it is a retro fit and a compromise at best. many have gotten excellent results and just as many have been very disappointed. one of the things that I do is to get a complete system worth of components for a 95/96 truck when I'm doing a build. I'm doing this now. gathering parts today actually. however, I am usually upgrading to the later serpentine system and that allows the use of the later compressor. that requires the use of the later hose assembly, accumulator drier and therefore the evaporator too which changes the orifice connection from a threaded one to a quick disconnect. yes, it's a big job! but when totally disassembled it's just a matter of which parts you put back.
if you do elect to do a retrofit, the caution I have is to not allow yourself to overcharge it. you may easily find the compressors weakness. the case seals. in fact, it's getting late in the year. maybe save up for that spring project.  it's a bronco. pop the top and ride like a big dog!

If you are inquiring, I can only assume its not working anymore.  If there is any remaining pressure in the system, get it evacuated at a shop (is the environmentally friendly way to do it)  

I converted mine to 134a.  If you live in the states, you can buy the small cans of it (12 oz I believe).  Stay away from 12a and such replacements, if it has an explosive symbol on the can - its not the right stuff.  

If the compressor failed, it could have sent chards of metal into the system.  A flush would be recommend.  Some say if the chards were sent into the condenser, you can never really get them out.  If the compressor still works, change the drier and orifice tube at a minimum.  I used pag46, get the type with the uv dye in it or make sure to add uv dye (to help locate any leaks you may have).  Once the dryer is installed, do not leave any part of the system open to atmosphere or the new drier will absorb moisture and reduce the efficiency. I tape a double layer plastic bag tightly over any open connections.  When replacing components, the correct amount of oil has to be added back in.  Each component replaced has a recommend amount of oil to add.  

I replaced the compressor, condenser, drier, orifices tube and all O-rings i could get at.  Draw a vacuum on system for 30 minutes minimum (I like to do an hour at least).  These can be rented.  Refill with 134a as per the manual.  

Kind of scattered thoughts but hopefully some it helps.  

Haha I gathered you’re very busy settling in. Was just missing your input. Others help so thank you guys! As it turns out it was apparently converted by previous owner. That was discovered by a local bronco enthusiast/mechanic. We evacuated the system tested for leaks and recharged. It’s holding and blowing cold. Thank you guys so appreciate everyone.

there is an "inconvenient truth" haha that we must mention. automotive systems leak or they will leak. in refrigeration there are hermetically sealed systems and semi hermetic. a refrigerator is hermetic as it has no access points, and all connections are soldered. therefore, it requires a failure of a solder joint or a puncture.  
an auto system relies on many seals and "o" rings which are by any standard a weak link. think "sally ride".
any time that you replace or initially install an o-ring the entire contact surface must be clean, clean, clean. oil the seal with a dab of the same type oil in the compressor and tighten while avoiding rotation of the seal. another weak link is the main seal of the compressor. because of the semi hermetic design, it has an external drive method being the clutch so the shaft must exit through a seal much like the crankshaft of the engine itself (think of 300 psi crankcase pressure and how bad that might leak oil). millions have had a system not lose anything but just as many need to be charged every year. just do the best job that you can and fix every leak you can find and carry on and recharge if needed.