86 F350 1 ton Dump Resurrection

That's the EGR base gasket, and it's best replaced with the Genuine Ford (updated -E8TE-) one.

I'm on a short break.
I'll look up the rebuild kit when I get home

The Holley kit # is 3-1346

I will tell you (from personal experience) do not get some aftermarket kit.
Also... ironically it is a Cali prop 65 item!  

If you need floats, get the brass ones.
If you need a powervalve just use single stage. Something like 7 is good.

You should consider installing a blowout preventer check valve while you have it apart.
When the DSII dies, and the truck backfires it will be worth it!  

The EGR spacer gasket is E8TE-9447-AA, also known as Motorcraft CG 536-B

Trust me, it is the one you want.

Thank you,

Here are the numbers I got distracted searching, what a mess even with these numbers it was confusing a bit.

I know I mentioned it's a 4180 but after looking up so much crap I thought I better post this in case I misled you guys.

I actually got it freed up..well not loose but it moves. I'm not sure how tight it should be?

I'm going to order the kit as soon as you confirm those numbers do not change your mind.

I have an appointment for Monday for the smog test.

It looks like I can get the kit from Wal-Mart of all places and by Friday. That should give me time to get it done.

I can change the appointment If I have to. Honestly I'd rather fix it myself than have them do it, I mean the smog part not rebuild the carb.

Not trying to rush to judgement but would/could that gasket be contributing to the numbers?

Thank you again.

That Ford number and list number is definitely a 4180 built for 1985.

When was your truck manufacturing date (from the door tag)

Anyway, definitely the right carb for that truck.

Hey guys

So the date is 03-86. I just took off the front bowl cover. The screws were loose which would explain why let last time I fired it up it was leaking.

I believe I replaced the power valve a few years ago when I did all that work or possibly before that. I can't remember which one it is there a way to tell?


The o rings are hard. The power valve spring pushes in and comes back out smooth it not stuck or resists.

Can I just take the throttle shaft out and clean them up or do they need to be replaced?

There is still gunk in there so I don't know if they have play or not.




Thanks again

The powervalve should have a set point number stamped into it.

Unstaking and removing the butterflies is tricky. Especially getting them back into place.

Mark them and their bores so they go back in the correct orientation.

Check the fit of the shafts in the carb body and make sure you don't need to bush it for a good fit.
IIRC, the 4180 already has plastic bushings, but they wear.
And there's definitely wear if the shafts are rusty.

I got it out 👍 I just lightly tapped it from one end till it came out. It was tight all the way to the end.

The pic shows the end opposite the throttle cable.

One of the heads of the screws sheered off it looks like it was already partially broke.

I gently filed down the screw bases where they went through the shaft so they would come out. The were slightly smashed which I guess was sop for their install.

The crap on the shaft does not appear to be rust. I mean it's rusty looking but it's not adhered like rust. It's more like a surface gunk. I just barely scraped it with a flat screwdriver end not even getting to the metal then took the pic.
The other bushing locations do not have any of this residue on them.

The bore in that location has white residue I'm assuming from the bushing?

The pic is the bushings located in this area of crap build up. The other bushings are fully intact. I'm assuming new ones will come with the kit?

I was unable to find any numbers on the power valve. I know I replaced it. I will see if I can get the info from the parts house.

How should I go about cleaning this crap off? The other areas are free and clear.

Thanks again.

If it doesn't loosen with carb cleaner I would try Scotchbrite and light oil (even WD-40)

But you don't want oil on the assembled carb
It attracts abrasive dust and becomes grinding paste.

Thank you. What are my options to replace that broken screw?

I have not tried to get the shaft out but once I do is that screw something I can buy or need to order?

The kit should arrive today late is there anything else I can do today to expedite it's install?

Not trying to rush but just prepare.

Thank you again for your guidance.

I can't wait to get this thing back on the road.

I'm not the expert here, Bill Vose is.
The wafer head screws are definitely available.

If you don't want to resort to red loctite you can get new ones and punch or peen the projecting ends to lock them in place.

You definitely don't want anything falling into your engine if you can avoid it.

Really all you can do is have everything surgically clean and laid out on a white towel.
I do this so I can easily see if something is still dirty and so tiny items like springs and check balls don't run away.

Thanks.

It just arrived so I'm going to get to it.

I have an old deep dish pizza pan I have lined with a nice towel with everything in it and I'm going lay out all the kit parts as well.

Thank you

I have never seen shaft bushings in any of the kits I have gotten in the past.

If me and as bad as the carb was and needing to go thru smog I would have gone for a rebuilt or new one.
Being you removed the shaft, I have only removed it once and could not get it to work right when back together, I never removed one after that.
That is why I said to get a rebuilt or new one.

On the power valve look on the outer part for the number.
I have only seen 6.5 ones come in rebuild kits.

Good luck.
Dave ----

If the kit doesn't have any bushings in it, let me know and I'll send you some. I have a tin full of Holley parts and I think I even have some screws. Not sure about that though. The medium duty truck kits always had the bushings in them. I am kind of like Fuzz I don't mess with trying to take the shafts out, have never had much luck with them. Good Luck!

The key to getting the butterflies aligned correctly is to leave the screws slightly loose and slowly close the throttle while moving the butterflies.  Once you get the throttle closed and the butterflies fit neatly in the bores tighten the screws down.

All true.
I didn't get into the details, but it's not a problem, if you know what you're doing.

Too late now lol I'm into it.

Yes there is no number anywhere. I remember replacing it but don't know where I found it so. The one in the kit is a single stage and it's 4.5

I think Jim recommend 8 something tells me it's more like 8 because someone suggested like an 8 or 9 hell I can remember I do know it was a large number than 4.5



Also this ball is not on the diagram and I have no idea how to get it out or even if I should bother.

The brass landing for the float spring seems to be just slid in but I'm afraid to try to pull it out. I have the new ball is this something I should do?
Thanks

Thank you. So are these original or has this thing been rebuild? I'm going to have to take you up on the parts as as usual nobody around here can find them. I can get them from Holly though so I might do that. I will let you know.

I had to take the shaft out since it was all gunked up.

I would not worry if that check ball is free and sealing in its seat.

IIRC Holley recommend one less than 1/2 idle vacuum.
So, if it's 18" at idle, 1/2=9-1=#8 valve.
But that's just a safe starting point, not Bible.

The float springs should pull out gently.
But I don't see any reason to mess with them.
I change float seats, rubber tipped needles and adjust the float with the tab (inverted)

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I would not worry if that check ball is free and sealing in its seat.

IIRC Holley recommend one less than 1/2 idle vacuum.
So, if it's 18" at idle, 1/2=9-1=#8 valve.
But that's just a safe starting point, not Bible.

The float springs should pull out gently.
But I don't see any reason to mess with them.
I change float seats, rubber tipped needles and adjust the float with the tab (inverted)

X2 but I heard 1/2 of the vacuum at idle as a starting point.
Dave ----